20 dollar cam tool - Page 3

snowman · 03-31-2006, 01:32 PM

For removing the old stuck cam nut, just stick to the standard impact socket and wrench. No need to hold the center with this tool. Just don't use it to put the thing back togather.

MBEngineering · 04-04-2006, 12:31 PM

HI i will go along with henry, i do not have any prob' un doing or tightning with factory tools that i have been using for years, well since 1974,
' the tools are only as good as the operater using them!!!'
try www.stomskiracing.com for there cam tool!!!

regards mike

shbop · 04-04-2006, 03:44 PM

I have to agree with Mike. The SR051 tool from Stromski is terrific. It's more $$ than the 46 crows foot, but what a difference.

911pcars · 04-04-2006, 04:29 PM

The Stomski tool looks like it would do the job very well, but at $175.00, it falls into the "this would be a nice tool to rent" category. Anyone interested in making this available to rent?

Sherwood

MBEngineering · 04-04-2006, 11:18 PM

HI i am looking in to it !! along with other tools

regards mike

klaucke · 04-06-2006, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 911pcars
The Stomski tool looks like it would do the job very well, but at $175.00, it falls into the "this would be a nice tool to rent" category. Anyone interested in making this available to rent?

I have a very similar tool that I made, because I did not want to buy the proper tools and wait for them to arrive. It is like the Stomski in that it is fully captive of both the cam nut and the cam. The cam holder slides completely through the nut holder. I cut the pieces on the lathe and later Bridgeport, then welded them to some pipe. Unlike the Stomski, mine is billet and not cast. I have broken large, cast sockets (3/4" drive) similar to the Stomski before, just using a breaker bar, not even an impact

Next time I need them I will fine tune the handles and cut down the pipe so they are smaller and lighter, but at the time I was in a rush to get the motor apart.

If anyone ever needs to borrow them, I will gladly loan them out.

911pcars · 04-06-2006, 12:48 PM

J.
If you don't mind, I may take you up on your generous offer when I'm ready to dive into the engine. It looks like a better mousetrap then the factory cam holding tools I have. Are the welded rods meant to slip into long lengths of plumbing pipe for add'l leverage? Either that or you're one strong dude.

Sherwood

klaucke · 04-07-2006, 08:19 AM

I was able to loosen the nuts on my cams using just what you see, but I agree it was difficult. Slipping a large pipe over would be a wise idea. The cam holder is made to have a piece of pipe slip through it, you can just make out a hole in one end in the first picture.

Let me know when you need them Sherwood; cover the shipping costs and they are at your disposal.

FrenchToast · 10-14-2019, 07:47 PM

Bad idea to use galvanized pipe as an extension bar, assuming it is seamed. The seam can split.

Also,

Does anyone make a captive version that is forged or billet, not cast?

911pcars · 10-14-2019, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klaucke

I was able to loosen the nuts on my cams using just what you see, but I agree it was difficult. Slipping a large pipe over would be a wise idea. The cam holder is made to have a piece of pipe slip through it, you can just make out a hole in one end in the first picture.

Let me know when you need them Sherwood; cover the shipping costs and they are at your disposal.

Sorry for the 13 year delay in responding to your loan offer. I must have missed the forum alert in my email; only noticed after FrenchToast responded today. I made do after waiting for your response after 8 years had past.

As for your choice of materials, I would trust galvanized pipe is plenty stout for this procedure.

Thanks,
Sherwood