Case Sealed - Crank turns much easier!

[Dadofour]

The Engine case is assembled. I prepped everything except the sealants. We took our time with the Curil-T, 1121, and 574, but once I started applying the 1104 it was a race.

I applied it a little thicker (tough with a sponge roller) to see if I could get a little squeeze out this time.










No mishaps and we got squeeze out. I can rotate the crank with my hands. It is even easier not with the flywheel on.

I put on the thermostat, crankcase breather, Oil pressure switch, oil pressure relief pistons, inboard chain ramps and the flywheel last night.

I am waiting for a ring compressor to arrive in the mail and I can start assembling the cylinders.

Thanks everyone for your help, especially Henry.

Than

[ChrisBennet]

Hooray!
-Chris

[mppickett]

Good news, Than.

[88-diamondblue]

Than,

Looks good. I will be doing this in about two months. Cleaning everything right now. Is that Yamabond 1104 on the case? What did you use on the other parts of the case?

[Dadofour]

Michael,

As per Henry:

Threebond 1121 on number eight bearing
Curil-T on the flywheel seal
574 on the internal webs
Threebond 1104 on the external preimeter.

The only tricky one is the 1104. It cures very quickly. I used a roller to apply it which allows an even thin coat, but it almost prevents you from getting a thick enough coat to get a little squeeze out.

Good luck!

[ChrisBennet]

As a data point:
On the last 2 motors I did, I followed Henry's suggestion and used 1104 on the case halves and 1211* on the #8 bearing.
I've been hosed by using too much sealant in the past so I put the 1104 on very thin - like a coat of latex wall paint
There was no "squeeze out" on the case halves to speak off and it sealed great.
-Chris

*The number is 1211 not 1121.

[sand_man]

Originally posted by ChrisBennet
As a data point:
On the last 2 motors I did, I followed Henry's suggestion and used 1104 on the case halves and 1211* on the #8 bearing.
I've been hosed by using too much sealant in the past so I put the 1104 on very thin - like a coat of latex wall paint
There was no "squeeze out" on the case halves to speak off and it sealed great.
-Chris

*The number is 1211 not 1121.

When you apply the 1211 to the #8 bearing, how much do you apply? Do you just go right over the top of it? A picture would be great.

Thanks,
Jeff

[ChrisBennet]

This is the 1211 applied for the #8 bearing. I put it on semi thick. (Much thicker than the 1104 used for the case halves.)


Don't take my example as definative, take it as "hey Chris used X amount of sealant for 2 motors without leaks" nothing more, nothing less.
The more motors I do the more I learn and the more I realize "Man, I've got a lot to learn".

While we're on the subject, anyone who knows how an O-ring works will see that applying the sealant in this fashion will hurt the #8 O-ring's mobility and thus performance. This was my concern as well so I asked Henry about this. Basically, yes, it will hurt the performance of the big O-ring but the sealant now does the job that the O-ring used to do - an O-ring that didn't always do a great job anyway.
-Chris

[sand_man]

Thanks Chris! My other question is: once you lower the crank into place with the #8 nose bearing attached, do you apply the 1211 to the top of it or to the other side of the case half?

[Dadofour]

I know you are not asking me, but I applied it to the other case half.

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by sand_man
Thanks Chris! My other question is: once you lower the crank into place with the #8 nose bearing attached, do you apply the 1211 to the top of it or to the other side of the case half?

I don't put any sealant on the #8 bearing directly, I put it on the case where it will sit instead.
-Chris

[sand_man]

Thanks Chris and Dadofour...I haven't decided if I'm going to use Henry's methods. I already purchased a Master Rebuild Kit form Imagine Auto and it came with the 574. I know this stuff is tried and true so I might just use it for everything as detailed in Wayne's book...I dunno, we'll see.

Jeff

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by sand_man
Thanks Chris and Dadofour...I haven't decided if I'm going to use Henry's methods. I already purchased a Master Rebuild Kit form Imagine Auto and it came with the 574. I know this stuff is tried and true so I might just use it for everything as detailed in Wayne's book...I dunno, we'll see.

Jeff

Thousands of 911 motors have been rebuilt using 574. The thing about 574 is that it is unforgiving when it comes to assembly mistakes. The "trick" with 574 is put it on thin and snug up the perimeter bolts first so the 574 sealant will be squeezed down/out before it hardens.

Tip: It is easy to overlook the leftover sealant in the perimeter bolt holes. If you don't clean these holes out, when you lower the top case half over the studs, the perimeter studs will scrape off that old sealant and it will fall down - onto your nice clean sealing surface leaving hard little "crumbs" between the case halves.
-Chris