Alusil P&C-out as a unit

[rlane]

I am replacing Dilavar on a 78SC, heads off and do have Alusil. The good news is that the motor just has 74K on it and leakdowns of 3-5%...so not planning on splitting the case. I am looking at the motor and Wayne's book in regards to removing the P&C as a unit. I searched and read all I can find on removing these without separating the pistons from the cylinder and all the potential issues with reseating the rings etc. My question is really basic though, which is can anyone give practical tips experience on the best order of cylinders, methods, hints etc. I am terribly inexperienced in this great adventure and only able to jump in to this because of the talents of Wayne and this forum.
Any and all help appreciated.

[rlane]

I appreciate any and all advice or tips on getting these out with my sanity intact?

[tom1394racing]

Why take the P&C's off if you only need to replace the lower studs?

I'm no expert, but my recollection is that you could use the Snap-On stud removal tool to get the studs out without removing the P&C's if you studs are not damaged.

[cgarr]

What is this snap on tool I hear so much about to remove studs? anyone got a picture of it? I just removed my lower Dilavar studs by just double nutting them, does this put too much stress on the stud?

[john walker's workshop]

occasionally you get lucky and some of the studs come right out without having to heat the case. but some usually don't. then you would first have to clean the debris out of the threaded holes and run a cleanup tap through the threads and blow them out with air in order to have an easy time installing all the new studs. the P+Cs would be in the way for that. if you really need to remove the P+Cs as a unit, position the engine on Z1, which places #1 and #4 pistons all the way up. start with those two. the rest will be obvious.

[rlane]

Craig, there is a picture in Waynes book, I will run to the garage in a minute and snap a couple of pictures of the tool/collett.

[rlane]

a couple of pix, the collett in the tool is the 10 mm for head studs, the 8mm for exhaust studs is the extra one beside it

[cgarr]

Thats cool, like a threaded collet

[tom1394racing]

Rick

Let us know how you make out trying to remove the studs with the P&C's in place using the collet tool.

[rlane]

I don't think I will try to remove the head studs with the P&Cs in place..plus one stud is broken on #2 already. I think I will follow JW's advice and remove them.
I have seen different suggestions about heating the spigots...Waynes says no oxy-acetylene...several others say use it...what is the consensus?

[tom1394racing]

On my 3.0 aluminum case, I had to heat several of the studs to get them to break loose even when using the collet tool. I used a propane torch.

On my 2.4 mag case, all of the studs came out without heating.

[Eagledriver]

You'll find there are several threads on this subject with all manner of methods described. I use about 2 minutes of propane on the studs themselves and they usually yield at that point. Sometimes it takes a little longer.

-Andy