Rebuilding a 3.0 to sell it.... help!

[air-cool-me]

My 77 had a 3.0 out of a 79SC in it. i ended up snapping a dilivar stud..

I want to rebuild it for the experience in my mechanics shop with his help.(actually... I'm pretty sure he is going to watch every second of the process considering i have never rebuilt anything)
The plan is to sell it at the end of the endeavor and use the funds to head to bondurant for driving instruction.( i already have a new motor in the car)

What I'm looking for is advice on what the buyer will want as far as the rebuild goes. I really want to learn how to rebuild one, but i don't want to build a motor no-one wants.

the motor is currently all apart, the case hasent been split.


I was told the bottom end was fine. I didn't have any problems with oil getting past the valve guides. I was told the heads are fine also.



so i guess my question's are...

is it worth it to send the heads to EBS to have them rebuilt? even if they look good?

right now i have 12 Alusils P&C's in the garage... should i look for a set of the nikisils or just re-ring?

what studs should i use?

even if the bottom end is fine.. should i sneak rod bearings in anyways?

basically... whats todays buyer looking for in a rebuilt 3.0?

i don't want to spend money on something that wont contribute to the resale value.

I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to this subject so thanks for any help you can give.

[rlane]

I am certainly no expert as I am in the process of doing a similar "top-end" job on my 3.0 from my 78 SC
I would think to answer some of your questions we need to know how many miles on the engine, did you have a leakdown done?
I can tell you that my project was for the same issue with Dilavar.
I am :
Replacing clutch.
Adding SSI's
Replacing broken exhaust studs..actually Henry at Supertec willbe replacing all exhaust studs.
Refurbishing heads (again Supertec)
Reusing Alusils (taking off and replacing as a unit..my car had 74K leakdowns 3-5%, little oil use)
Camgrinder is reworking cams to 964, refurbishing rockers. I had small amount of pitting on the end of a couple of lobes.
Replacing chain, updating idler arms.
resealing all the usual oil leaks spots.
Replacing rubber/metal oil tensioner lines.
I am using ARP head studs but only because I already had them at a great price. Otherwise i would use Supertec or plain old steel.
Hope that helps.

[CliffBrown]

Doesn't make economic sense not to do a complete rebuild at this point. The value of the motor will be much more if you do a complete rebuild rather than just the top end.

If you think the lower end is in great shape then the additional cost will only be a few seals & gaskets besides the bearings. Additional labor will be minor. Your machinist should be able to provide any work needed to the crank, which should be minor if the motor is as good as you stated.

[ChrisBennet]

Now mind you, this isn't my "philosophy" or anything but from a purely economic standpoint if you want to get the most for your money you need to do the least possible work on the motor. For example, spending $1000 on heads will not make the motor $1000 more valuable. If it snapped a head stud, replace the lowers studs with steel ones (993.101.172.02) and put it back together.
-Chris

[Mike Juzenas]

If you are going to sell the car then:

1 - The buyer will discount the car/engine because it was a DIY and does not have a warranty

2 - You should fix the stud and if the rest of the engine looks good put it all together again (as Chris says) and sell it. You will never get the money back that you will put into it once you start rebuilding it.

3 - If there are things out of spec like the valve guides then replace them but it its in spec don't touch it.

I think the biggest point is 1 so I would minimize the work done because the less you do the less the discount...

Just my $.02.

cheers,

Mike

[rlh930]

Originally posted by air-cool-me
What I'm looking for is advice on what the buyer will want as far as the rebuild goes.

If I was buying a rebuilt motor I think I would want to know the work was done by someone with as much experience as possible. I think the previous advice to do the minimum to get the engine working again and sell it in that state is sound.

[air-cool-me]

see here is the kicker...

I wont be touching the motor unless I'm under the watchfully eye of my mechanic. I plan on having him walk me through it and re-checking what i am doing every step of the way... maybe i can even get him to cover it under a warranty

I work at his shop part time... doing basic maintenance on 911's but this is out of my skill set by a long way..

"time" is not so much an issue but parts are.. and any necessary machine work



I think i might have the heads rebuilt\new studs\re-ring P&C's\rod bearings(if it needs them)

and button it back up...

[Carl_Boehme]

I will eventually be having my 3.0L engine rebuilt and have already decided to send it to Henry at SuperTec. IMHO it is worth it to have it done by an experienced shop with a great reputation. An engine rebuilt by a mechanic w.o. rebuilding experience remains a rebuilder. Currently worth about $2500-$2900 for a rebuildable 3.0L. Good luck. Best bet is to rebuild it and run it in one of your own cars for a 100k or more.

[s5uewf]

I agree with those who recommended fixing only what is broken if you intend to sell it. Without a warranty and knowing it was DIY would actually send me toward buying an untouched used engine at a discount, as I'd assume whatever work was done DIY was suspect. I'd rather do it myself if I was interested in home rebuild or pay a shop of my choosing to do a pro job.

[afterburn 549]

what Crisbennett said.....you said to "sell it" if thats its only problem address it and be done.............but once you open it up.........................

[air-cool-me]

IMHO it is worth it to have it done by an experienced shop with a great reputation.

its not worth is to me... the labor alone at supertec would be more then what i could sell it for. i dont have two 911s so i have no use for the seccond motor.

I WILL be at least standing next to the motor during the whole rebuilding process and learning as much as i can.

that is first priority not making money from it. i was just curious as to what should be done to make it desirable.

i Could just have my boss rebuild it and not touch it, but the learning process is valuable to me.

My boss\mechanic has worked on everything from original IROC cars to a 917, I'm sure with him watching me like a hawk\showing me what to do\checking everything im doing\ as i rebuild it at his shop\my work\ it wont be a "rebuilder" when its finished.

look for a photo documented rebuilt 3.0 for sale in the forums soon enough. thank you for your opinions.

[afterburn 549]

I guess we all dont get your pt?? if you open it up you will sell it at a loss no mater what un less you do it and just replace the studs......it might be less of a loss to sell it as IS then bury your self in it

[air-cool-me]

right now its all taken apart... striped down to the case.


how much would material cost be to put it back together... gaskets,piston rings,ext?

assuming the heads are fine and no machine work?

[BReyes]

You can get a gasket kit from our host. Document your work here. The benefit you will obtain from do it yourself/learn as you go, will pay you P-dividends long after the motor is sold.

Are you looking to gain 911 rebuilding experience? Don't you want to really learn how to rebuild the entire motor (Superkit, studs, bearings, bolts). It involves cleaning, cleaning, and cleaning. You have it easier on this point because of your facility.

Oe are you looking to recover losses from your repairs? Just R&R lower half studs and gaskets.
Good luck.

Regards,