A good source for -an fittings/adapters is www.anplumbing.com.

im lucky...
 

fortunately for me, there is a great hardware store in town that sells the entire lineup of earl's products. They run a couple cars at Bonneville and the other salt flats around socal. Just went in, got what I needed and was on my way.

Also checkout HRPworld.com for goodridge, aeroquip and earls hoses and fittings.

Is this car running yet?

so close its scary
 

Just had to hookup an additional engine sensor. Now just need to change a few settings in the software and we are on our way. Been busy getting ready to head out of town, helping a buddy demo his new place, school and work but it will be running by friday. There was some confusion as to the type of ignition setup I was running which was where the additional sensor came in, now its all good. Soon as its running ill record a little video clip with sound on the camera and if anyone wants to host it that would be cool.

Cheers, ryder

SWEET

Ryder,
Send you a pm.

Peter@rennspeed

Thanks guys, I had everything else (place up the street has it all) but not this one fitting, I have it figured out now.

One more question, what is the fuel routing you are using and is the regulator plumbed in before or after the rails?

Cheers

Tank > Fuel pump > supply line > fuel rails > FPR > return line

Cool, that is how I have it, but I thought I saw a "T" on the end of one Ryders rails in a picture, that had me scratching my head!

Cheers

tank, pump, accumulator, filter, T fitting on left rail and off to right rail, left rail front into fpr, right rail front into fpr, fpr to return line. almost got it going tonight but held up, one of the hard lines from the pump into the bay had a small crack in it and was leaking, big bummer. oh well im off to sun river oregon this weekend on a private jet and am going to enjoy lots of golfing and college style debauchery.

cheers!

Ryder, I see you used the multiplexer and the Bosch coil modules...what did you use for a trigger? Is it crankfire?

Thanks,
Scott

I don't want to speak for Ryder, but I believe his is crank fire.

On mine I use a crank trigger and 6 MSD coils all run through my microtech.....

Cheers

Coils look like this.........

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166075904.jpg

Cheers

Well, after a very long time its almost done. Bit of a problem with some unwanted material left in the case after the powdercoating that wrecked a little havoc on the internals.

So after taking it all apart and an overly thorough cleaning job its back together and back in the car. Should be ready to crank over pretty soon. When it did run, for a short period of time it was loud, sounded pretty mean and was all we wanted.

The details of the electronics on the motor got changed up a little bit. Sometimes they dont like to play nicely with one another. In the interest of getting things running the fuel is still controlled by the ecu but the ignition is a 993 twin rotor dizzy and two msd boxes. Once everything is broken in and running nicely I plan on tackling the coilpack setup.

The engine reference signal or crank position comes from a simply Clewett pulley wheel and sensor. Plug it into the ecu and there you go almost.

So to answer your question it is somewhat crankfired. The one drawback to the ecu I chose were the seemingly limitless options and power that it has. Yes its a big money motor but its not living at the racetrack so infinite control is not needed.

Jeff it seems your coming right along, one thing I did learn when trying to use coilpacks was that whatever you mount it to acts as a heatsink in a big way. Make sure the material is up to the task, adding computer style heatsinks to aid in cooling wouldnt be a horrible idea, we all know heat kills.

Anyways I just cant wait to get this project nailed down. Things never go according to plan but thats what makes them interesting. Its in capable hands that no longer lurk around here but know they are appreciated.

So once alls well I will whore myself out and get a dyno sheet for all to see. Then its brakes, new seat inserts, fuel cell, more painting, we know the list never ends.

cheers

Good tip on the mounting, the ones in my pic are mounted to a special MSD plastic base (about and inch thick) and then to the aluminum plate.

How is the throttle linkage working out?

Cheers

It still needs a little fiddling and adjusting with but so does most everything. Unless you want to run a real racing type throttle cable from the pedal to the engine bay then I think this is the best compromise. I drilled out the bellcrank fitting on the transmission that usually holds the throttle rod in place. Through this hole I mounted a bicycle style cable holder, usually found on old school cable brake setups. From there the cable runs naked to the top of the sideplate cover on the trans. There I mounted a simple L bracket. This is where the cable housing ends. From there its a straight shot into the engine bay where it hooks up to the Jenvey throttle linkage. The only thing I dont like is the return spring on the Jenvey setup, too weak for my liking. Also be sure to get a cable with a round end on it so it will seat into the cable carrier on the crossbar linkage and will not pop out!

I envision fabricating a simple throttle pedal with a real metal hinge, mounting a proper throttle cable on it and running that back to the engine at some point. Until then this setup should work fine.

In the next week or so I can get some pictures for you or describe in more detail how its set up if you would like.

cheers

My throttles came with the cable. Do you have the extra spring on your crossbar linkage, mine snaps back pretty firmly. I may just do the full cable setup right from the pedal to start with, or look into monkeying with the cross bar to accept some version of the stock rod style set up!

Merry Christmas

Cheers

Well the darn thing is up and running again. Will hopefully be off to dyno on Friday. Tuning is about 50% done, damn thing draws so much juice off the battery my good friend says we might have to install another one.

FYI the car runs a rather small lightweight battery to start with.

If its drawing that much power, shouldn't you consider an alternator upgrade over just increasing the reserve? If you start some serious driving, do you want to put it on the charger all the time and who wants another 6lb battery slowing you down!

The only reasonable alternator alternative I have found would be a 6k dollar McLaren unit used on the RSR's and DP's of the 996 kind. The bosch high output alt. of later years is not that much greater than the one I am running now, plus there are some fitment issues.