1983 911SC with Broken Head Studs

[p911sc]

I spoke with two other mechanics today. I will receive a written quote from the one on monday. It sounds like it will be high as well but I don't have a sense how high yet. The other, who comes recommended from friends and various locations on the net, said that he could do the studs for $3,500 and could include new valve guides, if needed, for about $900. This is starting to sound better. He did mention that he would look at the condition of the valve heads when the engine is disassembled. I am assuming that valve head issues would show up on a leakdown test???
The leakdown tests on the PPI were:
5%, 8%, 5%, 6%, 4% and 5%. Would that give any indication of the condition of the valves. I am assuming that that tells me nothing about hte guids though??? The car has about 130K miles and I don't see any evidence in the service records that there was ever any valve work, aside from adjustment or guide replacement so I am assuming that needs doing.
Rick

[Jeff Alton]

You can still have worn out guides and get great leak down numbers. High oil consumption is one indicator or possible guide wear. 900 should cover head work and new guides and 12 new valves. So, if it only needs a grind and guides it should be closer to 600 I would think.

It makes sense to have the head work done while it is apart, if it needs any.

Cheers

[Henry Schmidt]

Steel studs if you want to save money, Supertec studs if you want the best.
I wouldn't run Dilavar studs in a lawn mower engine.
The word should be stricken from the Porsche dictionary.
They were a bad idea when Porsche started using them and nothing has changed.
Of course this is just my opinion.

As for the cost of a top end, it all depends on the amount of work being performed. As this board clearly shows, there are many ways to perform a job. For some "while your in there" seems to inflate the cost. Compare apples to apples.
I would suggest that the shop that retorqued the head studs probably should not be working on Porsche 911 engines.
I would guess that they missed the broken studs because it's not likely that three studs broke in such a short period.

[p911sc]

Thanks for the suggestion on the stud material.

Aside from the studs, the valve guides, and the valves are there any other common wear points or issues, common to the SCs that would warrant doing now. I want to keep it within reason cost wise but realize that now is the time to do these things...

Rick

[MobileWrks]

p911sc i sent you a PM..... Hey Pelicans, Mobile going Mobile.. LOL

[MobileWrks]

What was the final issue ????? Did you do a build or find anything to help you out??

[Roslin]

Hi there, i'm just dooing a rebuilt on my 3.0 SC engine from 1980,
the car has approx. 220000 km on the clok.

When i removed the lower valve covers, i was choked!! 3 studs was broken in each side of the engine! one in every singel cylinder in the lower row. the broken parts was removed, except form one. the earlyer owner must have done that !! :-( i was in south france last summer, with some fast driving trough germany, but i have never observed any problems with the engine.. but i'm lucky i think - the cylinders seems to be ok condition! :-) just some black platted on no. 6 i direction where the bolt was missing.

Roslin

[EuroShark]

I'm going to find out for sure today if that is the problem on my 1980 SC. If it is, time to replace the studs.

[p911sc]

Well I started the rebuild process yesterday. Disconnected the engine and lowered it onto a dolly. I have yet to separate it from the transmission . I couldn't pull them apart yesterday so I thought I should sleep on it before forcing it and risking something stupid. I am guessing that it is an alignment issue.

I will be back at it tomorow. Again the brethren in the Porsche family have come to the rescue with some good recommendations.

I have been taking pictures and am hoping to post them as the process moves along.

Rick

[Henry Schmidt]

Did you disconnect the clutch fork?
On the 83 there are two arms that actuate the shaft that turns the clutch fork. The smaller of the two forks is held in place by a small snap ring. Remove the snap ring and the arm will fall off the shaft. At this point the shaft that holds the fork will rotate as you separate the trans from the engine.
Good luck.

[Jk369]

Rick,

There are some tool you will need, the adaptor ring for mounting to a universal engine stand (made mine) and cam nut crow foot. I have an extra unused one if you are intrested, and cam chain adjustment thing. Both of Wane's books are also invalueable.

There are some shops in our area, Cyntex in West Chester and Performance just outside of Frazer; I have not used either so I can not recomend but they are willing to talk.

I am in the middle of a cam fix, I mean oil leak, so if you like to see any of it apart before you start to dig or I put it together this weekend you are more than welcome. My number 484 875 0130.

Jeff

[p911sc]

Henry,
Thanks for the suggestion. I had disconnected and removed the clutch cable arms. My problem ended up being the result of a long day and not realizing that the transmission and engine were out of alignment. Today, I removed the rear wheels to get a better view and saw the problem. I jacked up the transmission and the engine slid very well. Incidentally, this experience led me to thinking about the difficulty of reinstalling the engine and mating the two with the transmission in the car, so before complete separation, I decided to remate the two and drop them together. I now have then both out of the car and separated. Success!

Jeff,
I would definitely be interested in what you are doing. I will call you tomorrow.
RIck

[p911sc]

I want to put a closing note on the saga. Sunday August 20th I completed the rebuild. I am still dealing with some heat issues but am making progress and moving forward.

Anyway, it is great to have the car back on the road. As great as this is the knowledge I have gained from the project, the fun that I had in the process, and the friends that I made have contributed greatly to my enjoyment of the car.

I want to take this time to thank you all for being there, and taking the time to share your knowledge. It's priceless.
Thanks
Rick

[Jeff Alton]

Glad you are up and running! Way to go!

Cheers