open it and squeeze some out , it seems to be that it is SUPPOSED to be less consistent than tooth paste.. check it and see..

I just ordered a tube of yamabond4. Should be here Friday so I can continue the build. Not worth messing around with such a critical area.

so which Threebond is the Yamabond rebranded? 1104?

yes I think so from what I read here.

We looked at it on line in the Yamaha dealership and it described it has non hardening flange sealant. I new right away that was the one I wanted as that is how they describe the Loctite.

for 20 bucks CAD for such a critical piece I thought it a drop in the perverbial bucket.

Pelican sell a complete sealant kit with everything you need.
You can also buy ThreeBond and all the other proper sealants (including Dow 55) from 911 Vintage Parts.
Ken @ 760-731-4911
info@911vintageparts.com
Home

Don't do Yamabond 5, I did, and fully regret it.

5 is watery and too thin.

no you are correct yamabond 5 is a different product completley it is yamabond 4 you need. what happened tippy ?

Leaks!

oh that blows ,, did you have to tear it down again ?

I will in terms future, but not just because that.

I think I have some broken rings from an ego race in 100°+ weather with too much timing against a guy and his buddy on an M3. Kid wouldn't stop pestering me race after race. I guess he liked getting smashed in every race?! Ha.

Bad kharma. Porsche gods punishing you for trying to prove something you didn't have to. You drive a Porsche, nothing to prove, let em go....

i just did the second side .. that yamabond sure is nice stuff, goes on really smooth ..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459899842.jpg

Oh yeah, I beat the M3, the Porsche gods beat me! :)

Does the yamabond have to be applied to each surface? How much working time do you have with it?

Question: To which (paper) gaskets do you apply 574?

As posted by CBRacerX, ThreeBond sealants are recommended for the following components, all of which use (paper) gaskets. ??? Are there other gaskets I'm forgetting about?

1) Intermediate Shaft Cover to Case: ThreeBond 1211 (now 1215)
2) Oil Breather Cover to Case: ThreeBond 1211 (now 1215)
3) Cam Chain Housings to Case: Threebond 1104 (now 1184)
4) Cam Chain Housings to Cam Towers: Threebond 1104 (now 1184)
5) Cam Chain Housing Cover to Cam Chain Housing: Threebond 1104 (now 1184)

Again, thanks for your help and good humor!!!
Paul

I only put it on the cam housings then dropped the heads on . I am not sure what the working time is but I had the heads on in about 2-3 minutes then flipped the whole thing over and started torqueing them down , all together about 10 minutes , I think working time has to be at least an hour as I came back two hours later and it was still very tacky . Il see if the tube has more info.

the only one I am wondering about myself is the cam chain housing cover.

When I took my car apart the previous person only put sealant between the gasket and the housing , but nothing between the cover and the gasket.

There were absolutely no leaks and I was able to pop the cover off just from undoing the nuts with no issues. It worked fantastic

I m not sure but I think this may have been intentional as this is to me a " service cover" to do cam timing, check/ change tensioners. I think it would be miserable to try and do any of that with the engine in the car if this cover were " glued" on and trying to clean the surface of the housing afterwards while in the car .

Just a thought.

it works
 

I used Henry's kit on my last build............worked great and not a drop of oil escaped. I recommend it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmGO_GnyWtI
regards,
al

Al Kosmal
the x-faktory
koz@x-faktory.com
RGruppe #669
X-Faktory - Home

^ did you coat both sides of the chain housing cover gasket with the Loctite ? a thin Glazing as suggested ?

What is the recmended sealant for the oil pump O rings?

I never split that case I don't know .. I am surprised there is any sealant on an oil pump oring .. I mean it is inside the engine > would expect oil everywhere anyway .

I actually used a small amount of 574 on one side of the oil pump o-rings just to keep them secured to the pump and case while joining the case-half's. The 574 keeps the 3 o-rings from jumping off.

The Supertec Sealant Kit is great because it includes everything you'll need when sealing your case. We have it HERE for anyone who is interested.

I will add one comment to the thread .

I used the yamabond in place of the 574 as I had heard of leaks using the Loctite 574.

574 is completely anerobic. a month later after I sealed the engine the 574 can still be wiped off ( or washed away with oil in the engine ) an do no harm.

The yamabond I used on the other side in fact hardedned ( semi ) with exposure to oxygen , so it would be possible for chunks to come off . For more peace of mind I would use the yamabond on the cam tower to head interface only and use the 574 that coat all gaskets that get exposed to inside of the engine ...

just my 2c.

I wouldn't use a hardening sealant on the pump o-rings. Use something like a small dab of sticky Curil T or silicone paste to make them stick a bit, which assists with assembly.

Regarding 574 on the outside like the case perimeter, yes it doesn't cure. I have a brush sitting on the shelf above my workbench I purposely left in a jar of pens & pencils & other misc things. The brush has been subjected to 574 for like 6 years now and still hasn't hardened. But there are places where it does cure where you wouldn't expect it to, both outside the engine and inside, and I don't think the oil washes it away. You can find sites of hardened sealant around the valleys where the cam housing meets the wet part of the heads. That sealant squeeze out stays right there near the valve springs and gets brown & hard. Also look at the underside of a cam housing where the excess squeezes out to the edges that are exposed to the atmosphere. These are the "dry" areas of the housing. The 574 hardens there too.

I once tried the brown Permatex "aviation sealant" on the cam housings and it worked well to seal and goes on nice & thin (574 is actually quite easy to over-apply here). But when the brown Permatex gets warm, any excess squeeze out runs and drips down the parts.

I find it interesting that Yamabond is recommended for the outer case halves and the head to cam housings. Why is Yamabond recommended when silicon seal is verboten? Same stuff, no?

Aviation Permatex? The last time I used that, 40 years ago, it was MIA two years later when I tore the motor down.

Still making it after all these years

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-aviation-form-a-gasket-no-3-sealant-liquid/

sealed with a kit.....
 

I just completed a rebuild on a stock 3.0, using the Supertec sealing kit and I highly recommend it. Not a drop!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmGO_GnyWtI

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1463681174.jpg

regards,
al

Al Kosmal
the x-faktory
koz@x-faktory.com
RGruppe #669
X-Faktory - Home

Gosh, back in the day, I think that was the stuff I used on my aircooled VW (type 1) engines! I think!? Been many years!

It works OK. Not endorsing it as being better than any of the other tried and true sealant solutions listed here. Just saying it's a suitable alternative if someone were to ask and wanted to use it in a pinch.

I think it's a lot like Curil T in how it behaves. Sticky, non-hardening, similar solvent smell (don't get any ideas and huff on this stuff...), easy cleanup with brake parts cleaner, carb cleaner, mineral spirits, etc. Goes on a bit thinner than, and not quite as sticky as Curil T and I like that about it. Me personally i've never been much of a fan of that Curil T stuff for anything.

I used the stuff to seal up my carb on my old air cooled bike , is that the reddish stuff ? I think I still have it :)

come o think of it I found the same thing when I stripped down my engine. maybe it is a combination of lack of oxygen and heat that cures it then. Any how , on with the rebuild.

From what I read on the msds sheets the threebond 1104/84/94 family is a rubber sealant. Different chemical makeup apparently. They are not silicone sealants.

I would concur by feel , very stiff once cured , feels more like rubber than silicon.

Hi guys,

So nice post ! tahnk all

Any advice for this one ? (leak on my 911)

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...oners/pic2.jpg

That ring looks swollen. Did you use the Dow Corning grease on it? If so, that is likely why. See my previous post in this thread. Try a new ring with a non-reactive grease such as Krytox. Also check the integrity of the hole on the outer chain cover to make sure it's intact. If the banjo surface is fouled then I would sand it flat again using fine grit wet sand paper and then clean thoroughly after. A separate thread topic might be better to track progress and to keep this one clean. Best of luck.

Will assembly lube or motor oil work here. Mine needs replacing and was planning on using brake assembly grease SylGlide on it.

Use SilGlyde no problem. Perfect application for the stuff.

Outstanding!

or curil -t