Yes, Steve R is helping from the sidelines. It was an OPC full rebuild and he supplies them so is cautious with attribution of 'blame' but is helping on the technical aspects. It was him that told me it's only truly fixable with a reseal.

My friend Peter Booth at https://www.motorscience.co.nz can help you invert your Photo and your car.

regards

Haha, it looked fine on my iPad Safari browser. Just looked at it on my pc and can see what the comments were about. I suspect it's based on my being left handed and the consequent iPhone orientation. Evidently only iOs is able to compensate.

Benny Hill used to have a segment on his show from the U.K. that went "and now from Austraila)
and they would invert the camera.

regards

The first page of this thread specifies Dow 111 for O rings. Is Dow 55 a general substitute for Dow 111 or is Dow 55 specific to this application?

I can't speak intelligently about Dow 111 because we don't use it.
We chose Dow 55 because of it's military application (testing and continued use). We buy it as military surplus because when we started using it, Dow 55 was not available in retail packaging.

Thanks Henry.

I think I missed it, but does anyone know how fast 1184 cures?

I am wondering if I should apply the 574 on saddles first or the 1184 on the perimeter first?

TIA,

Jim

I think I did 574 first. The 1184 skims over pretty fast.


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The 574 is an anaerobic sealant (dries in the absence of air/O2) so apply it first. It won't start to harden until you clamp the case halves together.

Thank you sirs :-)

BTW, how does one keep the 1184 from squeezing into the case? I did a couple of test runs and boy the 1184 really squeezes out allot.

I am not wrried about the 574 but do worry about silicon getting inside the case.

Wtd

Noticed the case thru holes only have chamfers on nut side

No wonder the old orings were crushed and ripped on one side

Should I chamfer the Bolt side?

Check the washers, as I remember half of them should have a chamfer and those go on the side of the case without a chamfer and the others should be flat?

Chamfer the holes. Use chamfered washers. Orings will be happy

Thank you Brothers

Yes all the washers are chamfered type

Will be chamfering/deburring the d-side case thru holes

Using this type of tool http://www.noga.com/pdfFiles/coun.pdf

"BTW, how does one keep the 1184 from squeezing into the case? I did a couple of test runs and boy the 1184 really squeezes out allot.

I am not wrried about the 574 but do worry about silicon getting inside the case. "

You just need a very thin coat but you want some squeeze out. The 1184 is not silicone RTV and it is semi-hardening and remains elastic so it doesn't break off like the silicone RTV does. It's the same stuff used to seal motorcycle cases, also sold as Hondabond 4, Yamabond, Suzukibond 4, etc. it's good stuff.

Good Stuff, Nice :-), better use the acid brush, painter putty knife leaves too thick of a coat.

One more, is it okay to have the 574 and 1184 contact each other, like bottom of the #1 and top of #7 bearing areas?

TIA,

Jim

That won't hurt anything.

Throttle Body to Intake, SEALANT or DRY?
 

Hey Fellas,

Besides using the new back O-ring in the Wrigtwood Kit, I assume no sealant but just want to make sure. Does anyone happen to know the torque specs for the four allen bolts

TIA,

Jim

Answered my own question:

No sealant just new O-ring :D

Torque Specs, anyone anyone?

Dragon, which has four Allen bolts are you referring?

The throttle body screws are common M6x1.0 pan head screws that are threaded into aluminum. Snug is all you need. But if you want to be technical about it, an 8.8 class fastener that is zinc plated will normally want around 7 lb-ft of torque

http://www.metricmcc.com/catalog/Ch10/10-1027.pdf

Hate to break it to you but 1184 is an RTV and to much squeeze out can break off. But it is superior to regular RTV and a small amount of squeeze out is very unlikely to break off.
Just be careful of how much you use and don't use in critical areas like the bearing saddles.

hi

Do you put something on the o-ring of the chain tensioner ? (between chain tensionner and Cam Chain Housings)

Yes, Dow 55 or Motor Oil. dry may pinch the o-ring.

ok thank you Draco

ThreeBond classifies 1184 as a synthetic rubber and 1211 as a Silicon (RTV).
I'm not clear exactly what the difference is but I am certain that 1184 is far more resistant to "bead break-away" than the RTV products I've used.
Moderation in the application (avoid excessive quantity) should be the guiding principle.

Reposted from a Rennlist thread

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491498266.jpg

O rings as wellhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491498386.jpg

Mr. Schmidt,

In your opinion, would Curil-T be acceptable for intermediate shaft cover, timing chain cover and crankcase breather?

thanks

Sure, used sparingly.
The non-drying nature of Curil T makes it easy for the gasket to squeeze out if you aren't careful. Over tightening is often the culprit.

The thing about sealing these early air-cooled engines is that most ideas/techniques "can/may" work. We offer a technique that works for us. That does not mean it's the only method that works. More isn't always better, tighter is often a problem and cleanliness is paramount.

Is it common practice to use a sealer on the gaskets?
I've always (not that many engines) installed them dry with good results. Maybe I've just been lucky with the sealing surfaces.

If something is used, should it be non-hardening or hardening?

Back in the early 90's Porsche was experiencing a 4% leakage rate (off the dyno) on new engines using all new parts.
We are using well testing (heat cycled) parts with the hopes that we can do the job just once.
In a perfect world, a dry gasket should work. We got tired of being clobbered by an imperfect world.

Pulling my engine apart to find the cause of a leak around the nose bearing. I found this today on the cam plate. Does 574 dry into blobs like this? Maybe there is more of this around the nose bearing blocking the pressure channelhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492686954.jpg

Camshaft is fine however there is some pitting on the tappets. I hope this doesn't require new tappets.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492687094.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492687118.jpg

Thanks, if you could indulge me once more. Would you recommend Curil T on the intake runners to head gasket? Are these very likely to leak? I'd like to avoid any mess by installing dry but looks painful to remedy if one leaked.

Thanks again.

Come on guys:
Let's try to stick to the topic. This thread is a great resource for engine sealing.
Let's not fill it with off topic questions.

The P Fix It Engine Rebuild DVD states Loctite 574 gives a 45 minute window to finish sealing the case. What it s the window with Threebond 1104, 1211 etc?

I found the 1104 started to "tack off" before I had finished spreading around the perimeter of the case. You need to work fast; aim to have it together within 5-10mins max.

You might have a hair longer, but applying the 1104 becomes unworkable very quickly.

You must have all your ducks in a row before you start this task. All nuts, washers, seals, etc., clean and lined up, all your tools ready, torque wrench preset, etc. Think of it like a surgical procedure.
I have a lot of detailed pic's of my build, but not of putting the case halves together, as there's no time to stop for a photo op.

I suggest you make your own P221 rod and chain holder set like I did in the pic below, saves a lot of hassle.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads...1395549852.jpg