The Complete Engine Sealant Thread...

[Bluetarga78]

I wasn’t sure if my question pertaining to using silk thread as a gasket material embedded in the loctite 574 was relevant in this thread so I started a new thread. Also, not trying to steal any thoughts here, just a different approach I was asking for advice on.

[Turbo_pro]

Originally Posted by Bluetarga78

I wasn’t sure if my question pertaining to using silk thread as a gasket material embedded in the loctite 574 was relevant in this thread so I started a new thread. Also, not trying to steal any thoughts here, just a different approach I was asking for advice on.

My only concern with using silk thread is deterioration. The 574 will harden but the thread will not. The thread could affect the clamping force of the bolts reducing predetermined force required to prevent case shuffle. As the aluminum expands and contracts with heat, the thread can compress. If this compression allows for excess movement, the 574 can crack. All speculation but that's my guess.
I am not an engineer so take it for what it's worth $.02.

[dannobee]

Literally billions and billions of engines have been built from all manufacturers around the globe using some version or copy of ThreeBond grey RTV. It's been proven over decades of use with very low incidents of warranty claims. No need to try to reinvent the wheel or use materials and procedures from the middle of the last century (aircraft).

Use the tried and true materials and procedures outlined in this thread. Especially when considering the labor involved in repairing a leak at the case halves on one of these engines.

[85RedCarrera]

The primary issue that I have with some silicone products on aluminum is when it’s time to remove it- so I don’t use some products anywhere I might be going back into anytime in the ‘foreseeable’ future. Most Silicone on steel is no biggie- just get a brass brush and it’ll all come off.

Dirko required Digesil (best product ever for removing all traces of silicone) to Get it completely off the aluminum. Acetone was useless.

On my Ducatis, the Threebond type products are easy to remove- and then Acetone removes every trace of it. Not so with the Dirko- extremely tenacious stuff…. And I expect that that is desirable, as the bead after squeeze out inside the case seems firm and well adhered, so that it won’t sprout legs and walk through the engine.

I must admit though, getting the squeeze out with Dirko exactly where you want it to be, depends on the flange width and the amount applied, and I am used to using the Threebond type products on narrow flanges, and you don’t need much product at all in that scenario.

The first Porsche case I sealed with Dirko could have used a bit more than I applied, as I was just a hair less than the squeeze out that I wanted. It’s cleaned up now and I’ll be sealing it again soon. Next time I use Dirko I expect I’ll get it just right. Using New products sometimes require a practice session..!