By the way, the paint on Koni shocks sucks. As you can see either the varsol or the brake clean removed the yellow from mine. (apparently their primer is good though)

Kirk

I had to work for part of the weekend so not alot got done motor wise.
I got more parts back from the powder coaters. The red parts and the Zinc dichromate. **SHINEY!**

I also received the cat bypass from fabspeed. Also very Shiney.

I put the cylinder air ducts on the engine, and that was about it.

To be honest I decided I needed to install a ceiling fan in the garage because it was too hot in there, and that chewed up half the day.


Kirk
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153791695.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153791715.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153791731.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153791766.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153791781.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153791802.jpg

Nice air mover :)

The parts look great also, who does your powder coating?

I've been very happy with how the parts are turning out. The powder is being done by a local company:

http://www.dicustomcoatings.com/

Small shop that seems to take pride in their work.

Unless work interferes I am hoping to make some real progress this weekend on the assembly.

Kirk

Very nice writeup so far!

-Wayne

Thanx Wayne!

Be sure and yell at me as soon as you catch me making a fatal oopsie!

Kirk

I started off today with picking up a new parts washer (bigger) and a parcel from Purolater with my new intake assembly. (I am replacing the 89 aluminum intakes and throttle body with the later style plastic ones)

Then I cleaned the cam towers and heads for them to go on the engine

After using the new parts washer for 5 minutes I was really kicking myself for struggling with the little benchtop one for the last year.

Kirk
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154162621.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154162654.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154162665.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154162677.jpg

I began by organizing all the parts for assembly of the left side heads and cam towers.

I got the oil drain tubes ready by lubing up the green viton O-rings with dow corning 111. I installed the O-rings on the tubes and put them in place on the block.

Then I wiped down the mating surfaces of the block, heads and cam towers with alchohol, and placed the cylinder sealing rings in place.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154162867.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154162879.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154162888.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154162908.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154162918.jpg

The head stud threads were lubed with optimoly HT and then the heads put in place, with the head stud nuts finger tight.

I used threebond 1104 on the cam tower mating surface, and then put the cam tower in place. (Left side cam tower has a blockoff in place of the hole for the power steering pump)

The oil drain tubes were blocked with some paper towel, and the 18 cam tower nuts & washers were put on, and torqued in sequence.

All new fasteners are being used (Pelican has a complete kit)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154163051.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154163072.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154163086.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154163104.jpg

After I finished torquing the cam tower to 17 ft lbs in 2 steps I moved on to the head studs.
The head stud nuts were torqued in sequence to 11 ft lbs, and then torqued in sequence + 90 degrees.

Then I put the cam in place and rotated it to check for any problems with binding.

After that I got curious what the valve covers were going to look like so I set them in place. :)

Tomorrow I will do the right side of the engine.


Kirkhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154163313.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154163334.jpg

Nice road map! And nice valve covers :)

I have a had a setback, but I hope to be where you are in a few weeks. Keep up the great work!

Nice Kirk, I love the parts washer but my cleaning fluid never looks that clean;)

I noticed that when I torque the head stud nuts to 11 ft lbs I have to go back and redo them about 4 times, as soon as I finish the torque pattern, the first ones are back to being finger tight again.

Is this because of the cylinder/head sealing rings crushing?

After about 4 tries of torquing in sequence, they are all at 11 ft/lbs and stay that way, and then I can do the 90 deg.

Has anyone else noted this as well?

Kirk

Mike,

Ya that parts cleaner looked like that for about 30 seconds. :)

Kirk

Setback?
Nothing too serious I hope!

Kirk

I continued today by installing the heads and cam tower on the right side of the engine.
One thing I noted for both sides was that when I torqued the head nuts to 11 ft lbs, by the time I was done all 12, the first ones would be finger tight again. It required about 4 times to get them to a consistent 11 ft lbs. Is this because the sealing ring is crushing?

Kirkhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154241962.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154241975.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154241995.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242007.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242027.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242042.jpg

I installed the oil pressure reliefs in the bottom and side of the motor, and put in the oil drain plug.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242158.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242173.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242195.jpg

The left side chain housing was next.

I installed the two left side chain rails first, without tightening their hold down bolts.
Then I put the gasket in with Threebond 1104 on both sides of it, followed by the chain housing.

It took me about an hour to figure out that I was missing the roll pin from the bottom chain rail. If you ever do this, and you buy new chain rails, remember there is probably still some parts stuck to your old chain rails! (buy a couple extra roll pin holders, they crack easily)

The hold down for the rails is irritating because you have to have a very skinny walled socket to fit in the indented holes.

The right side is similar, with the straight rail on top and the curved rail at the bottom. I had the most trouble with the roll pins and their plastic holders. They were stubborn to get in.

I also noticed the powder coater put powder coat on the surface where the oil cross pipes go, so I will have to remove that I think.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242341.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242355.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242369.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242388.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242411.jpg

I lubed up the left side cam shaft and installed it. You can tell the left one because the cam lobes look like a V whereas the right side cam has lobes that are more aligned up/down. Then I installed the right cam.

The right side cam shaft also drives the power steering. It is open at the back.

The chain housing to cam tower uses a paper seal, and a green viton O-ring. I used Curil T here for extra sealing.

Then I put in the thrust washer, 3 shims , collar and cam gear on the left side. The cam gear is not bolted down yet.

Similar procedure for the right side, but different number of shims.

(It was getting late atthis point. so I'm a little short of pictures.)

Kirkhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242554.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242577.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242593.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242617.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242632.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154242643.jpg

This morning I checked the parallelity of the cam sprockets. Sorry no pictures, (not enough hands available) basically you hold a straight edge across the motor at the intermediate shaft and measure the distance to the left & right sprocket faces. They were on spec with the factory 3 shims left and 4 shims right.

I installed the oil breather cap with threebond 1211 on both sides of the gasket.

I also installed the oil sensor using a green viton o-ring and some of the misc. hardware on top of the engine.

Then I went to work 'unbolting' ;) the cat from the rest of the exhaust. I think I am going to skip trying to remove the existing O2 sensor. It'll be easier just to buy one.

Kirkhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154308406.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154308420.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154308435.jpg

Well, you might think of investing into a set of special beefy open end wrenches that are used on brake lines and stubborn things like the O2 sensor. They look like a boxed wrench with a small opening to fit over the nut. They would get it out in no time and as and added bonus you'll have nice tools.

In case of the O2 sensor you might even use a beefy boxed wrench and a good-ole breaker bar by feeding the O2 bung through the wrench.

Cheers,
Ingo

Ingo,

I have a set of line wrenches, but not one big enough for the O2 sensor. I should probably invest in one of those O2 sensor sockets with provision for the wire. Maybe next weekend.

Cheers,

Kirk

unless you buy a really high quality one - the O2 sensor sockets are a waste of money - beware :)

what about an old-fashioned boxed wrench - the bung should fit through it, right?

Yes, that works very well as long as you can get the plug end thru the wrench (22mm I recall)

The oil pipe between the oil reservoir and the oil filter was broken, so I had to remove the oil reservoir and the thermostat housing to replace it. (The oil line runs behind the resrvoir)

These oil lines are a PITA. As I was taking mine off I remembered the other posts I had seen where people were destroying the pipes as they progressed. Even if you get the flare fitting to turn, chances are the pipe is just twisting.

Also the rubber bungs that the oil reservoir and the thermostat housing are attached to are pretty hard to salvage. I ended up having to drill out three bolts, 2 for the oil reservoir and one on the thermostat housing.
Also none of the short rubber tubes for the reservoir were worth keeping.

I painted the reservoir tank with POR 15, and I'm making up a new parts order for the broken oil lines, sealing washers, etc.
I think I may have managed to save the long oil pipes from the oil cooler back. I had to disconnect the one pipe at the front of the car and take it off the thermostat housing by allowing the whole pipe to spin.

Kirk

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155705897.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155705920.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155705939.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155705962.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155705977.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155705998.jpg

I received the rocker arms and new WEVO engine mounts this weekend.


However, when the rocker arms were shipped back, they forgot to ship the rocker arm shaft assemblies, so work on the motor has stopped. http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif


I also received the replacement brake caliper bolts from Fastenal.

Blah.

Kirk
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155706559.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155706579.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155706600.jpg

Oil Lines
 

Looks like a messy operation, but the patient will live :)

I have been working out of town alot lately, so work has slowed down to a crawl. And the work I have been getting done has been stopped a every turn it seems.

1. I figured I would put together the oil system to get it off my garage floor and out of the way. I replaced the aluminum sealing rings on the fittings in the thermostat housing, and proceeded to try and install the oil lines to the front radiator. Sadly it looks like one of the lines was unuseable after all. So I gave up and ordered two new lines from porsche. Lesson learned: 17 year old oil lines are more fight than their worth. Just give up from the start and replace them.
2. I ordered the wrong sealing rings for the fittings on the oil filter housing, so I had to reorder those from porsche.
3. I did manage to spend a couple of hours figuring out where the rest of the small hoses, etc go on the oil tank.

And thats where I gave up on the oil system.

Kirk

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158030339.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158030349.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158030364.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158030380.jpg

Hang in there, this is the real character building stuff :)

And now for the real stuff.
Cam timing.

I started by laying out the rocker arms, shafts, shaft seals, and adjusters. I cleaned them all with brake clean, put assembly lube on the parts, mounted the adjusters on the rockers, and put the RS seals on the rocker shafts. (These are small rubber seals used as as additional insurance against oil leaks.)

I don't know whether these work or not, and there has certainly been some heated debate on Pelican about their use. My theory was that I paid for them and they were going in.

I did notice when installing the rocker arm shafts that some of these seals were 'shaved' by the sharp edges of the bores.

Kirk
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158030923.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158030937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158030953.jpg

Axl911 (Anthony) did such a great job of documenting the cam timing procedure in his rebuild thread I thought I would borrow it and use it here, and add a series of pictures to go with the steps. The text below is his (and I might add a note here or there))

Cam timing
To set timing for Cylinder 1.
1. Rotate the pulley so Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.

2. Install cylinder 1 intake rocker.

3. Install some sort of tensioner device on the chain. I used a generic steering wheel puller. (I bought two small pullers for $8 each, they worked perfectly)

4. Make sure both cams have the dots pointed straight UP. Draw a line from the dot through the center of the cam will make it easier to see the dot is pointed straight up. (the dots on my cam shafts were not as accurate as using the keyed slot on the camshaft)

5. Put the pin into the cam sprocket where the holes line up. Do this for both sides. You can put the cam sprocket bolt in or not. Leaving it out makes it easier to see how the dot moves. (Put the pins in with the hole facing outward, if you put it in backwards you can use a small magnet to remove the pin, i think it is better to have the bolt installed, but not torqued.)

6. Adjust the cylinder #1 intake valve clearance to .1mm like you normally do in valve adjustment. (Be accuracte with this step)

7. Mount your dial gauge on cylinder #1 intake. And set it to zero value.

8. Rotate the crank pulley clockwise almost 360 degrees. As you approach the Z1 again you will notice the dial begin to move. Only rotate CLOCKWISE!!!!

9. Continue to rotate clockwise until the gauge moved 1.26mm or .05 inch. STOP.

10. Is the Z1 mark lined up with the case parting line? If not, use a small screw to remove the pin on the left side cam. Rotate the crank pulley until the Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.

11. Now put the pin back into the cam sprocket where the holes line up.

12. Double check by rotating the crank pulley 720 degrees. By the time the Z1 comes around for the second time, when the Z1 is lined up with the crank pulley, your dial gauge should have moved 1.26mm or .05 inch.

13. You are done with cylinder #1. Don’t move anything.

14. If it takes more than 360 degrees to get the dial gauge to move 1.26mm, then you either don’t have the cam dot pointed straight up at the beginning or you did not adjust your cylinder 1 valve clearance properly.

Kirk
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158031282.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158031303.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158031326.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158031344.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158031368.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158031395.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158031418.jpg

Pictures Continued:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032064.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032089.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032110.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032134.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032150.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032174.jpg

Continuing with Axls procedure:

Now to set timing for Cylinder 4.
1. After completing the last step in setting timing for cylinder 1, the dot on the right cam should be pointed straight DOWN.

2. Install cylinder 4 intake rocker.

3. Install some sort of tensioner device on the chain. I used a generic steering wheel puller.

4. Adjust the cylinder 4 intake valve clearance to .1mm like you normally do in valve adjustment.

5. Mount your dial gauge on cylinder 4 intake. And set it to zero value.

6. Rotate the crank pulley clockwise almost 360 degrees. As you approach the Z1 again you will notice the dial begin to move.
7. Continue to rotate clockwise until the gauge moved 1.26mm or .05 inch. STOP.

8. Is the Z1 mark lined up with the case parting line? If not, use a small screw to remove the pin on the RIGHT side cam. Rotate the crank pulley until the Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.

9. Put the pin back into the cam sprocket where the holes line up.

10. Double check by rotating the crank pulley 720 degrees. By the time the Z1 comes around for the second time, when the Z1 is lined up with the crank pulley, your dial gauge should have moved 1.26mm or .05 inch.

11. You are done!!!

12. If it takes more than 360 degrees to get the dial gauge to move 1.26mm, then you either don’t have the cam dot pointed straight up at the beginning or you did not adjust your cylinder 4 valve properly. (My dots were not in line with my keyed shafts and it caused me some problems on the right side timing.)

Then torque both cam gears to 88 ft/lbs.

*** I remember a thread this year where someone had their cam gear alignment pin fall out and the cam gear spun, causing severe engine damage. At the time it was mentoned that this should be impossible because the cam bolt and its washer hold the pin in place. I noticed on my engine this is not necessarily true. If you use the correct cam holding tool, it will ensure the washer adequately covers the pin, more so if you tighten the bolt with the gear aligned with the pin at the bottom of the gear, however it is certainly possible to put this bolt/washer in, and not cover the pin, allowing it to fall out in the future. If you used some other method than the porsche tool to hold the cam gear while tightening the bolt, it would be easy to have no coverage of the pin. ***

Kirk
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032455.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032479.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032497.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032520.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032547.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032574.jpg

Next I installed the #1 & #4 intake and exhaust rocker arms. I tightened the valve lash until there was no gap, and then turned the intake adjusters in 1.5 turns and the exhaust adjusters in 2 turns.
Then I VERY carefully rotated the engine to make sure there was adequate valve/piston clearance.

I wasnt really worried about this, or I would have used a less hazardous technique.

Kirk

I installed the cam chain tensioners. I used a little Curil T on the gasket.

A funny story: I was installing the left side tensioner when the phone rang. I had the nuts and the washers just started on both sides. I was on the phone not facing the engine, when I heard a clink and something like the sound of dropping a penny down a pipe. Looking at the motor I realised one of the nuts and washers had popped off from the spring tension... And in my head it just didn't sound like it had hit the floor. I stared for about 10 minutes searching for the nut and washer, and they were nowhere to be found... My eyes kept coming back to the open hole for the distributor. I stuffed magnets etc down there and found nothing, and kept searching the floor and other parts of the motor, finally I decided that it must have somehow flipped through the air and made a perfect landing down that hole. I rotated the motor over, and shook it madly. I could hear the parts moving in the engine, but I couldnt locate the noise. Finally after about 45 minutes of searching, rotating the motor and shaking, the nut and washer dropped out of the distributor hole. Imagine if I hadn't caught that little oopsie! Lesson: Even the most unlikely hole needs to be plugged while assembling an engine.

Tensioner Picture Also 'borrowed' from Axls thread. ;)


Kirkhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032967.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032982.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158032999.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033013.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033029.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033046.jpg

...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033172.jpg

I dissassembled the cam housing oil line bridges and replaced the black O-rings. (I lubed these up with dow corning 111 O ring lube before installing them) and I replaced the small red O-rings on the chain case.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033323.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033344.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033363.jpg

Next I installed the rest of the rocker arms.
And the temperature sensor.

When you install the distributor the rotor should be centered on the notch on the distributor base. (Engine set at Z1 TDC for #1 cylinder)

Kirk
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033535.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033553.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033567.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033584.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033600.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033619.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158033637.jpg

Hot Damm! You are making great progress, and providing more excellent images.