Pelican Parts Forums

Pelican Parts Forums (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/)
-   911 Engine Rebuilding Forum (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/)
-   -   964 3.6 rebuild (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/290300-964-3-6-rebuild.html)

kirkf 09-12-2006 06:17 PM

Thanx Chris,

I pity anyone trying to view this thread on dialup. I got a little 'picture happy on the last few posts. :)

Kirk

kirkf 09-25-2006 06:20 PM

I received the latest pile of parts from porsche this week, which allowed me to get the oil system back in one piece.

I installed new aluminum sealing rings on the oil filter housing and the connections for the oil cooler, and then I put the new oil lines in from the cooler to the thermostat, and then the oil reservoir and the pile of hoses related to it.

Kirkhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159237207.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159237219.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159237232.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159237244.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159237255.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 06:27 PM

The next step for the motor was to install the power steering

1. Replace O-ring and seal on power steering casing. The O-ring got some Dow corning 111 on it.
2. The left rear tin is installed and then the power steering pump and housing are pushed into place on the left cam shaft
3. PLace the cam shaft holding tool on the front of the camshaft (At the timing chain) and then bolt on the power steering sprocket with the belt in place. The cam shaft tool lets you hold everything steady while you torque it. Then mount the small silver cover in place. Remember to put the standoff in the hole of the small silver cover.
4. Next mount the secondary exhaust bracket on the two standoffs, bolt on the second small piece of rear tin, and the plastic cover at the top of the assembly.

Kirk

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159237607.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159237629.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159237649.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159237669.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 06:46 PM

The next steps need to be done in order, or you get to redo them...

At this point the right side flywheel tin can get mounted with the wires for the flywheel sensor and temperature sensor installed and the left and right side tin.

Then the timing covers can be installed. I used dow corning 111 lube on the rubber bushings in the screws, and I used a small amount of Threebond 1104 on the cover and engine mating surface for the gasket.

The small cap at the front of the motor also got a new viton O-ring with dow corning 111 on it.

Then the belt break sensor is installed, followed by the air conditioning bracket and the flywheel. The a/c bracket is not bolted down at this point because it needs to be loose to allow the fan shroud on top of the motor room to fit in place. (And because the motor mounts still have to go on) :)

Kirk
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159238349.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159238371.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159238388.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159238414.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159238431.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159238449.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159238563.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 06:48 PM

(More images)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159238852.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159238873.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159238888.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 06:51 PM

The wiring harness is installed from the back of the engine, with its rubber bung pushed into the slot in the flywheel side engine tin.

The plastic upper shroud is put in place, and the wiring to the alternator is put through it. There are two ground wires that need to be attached at the top of the engine.

Then the wires for the knock sensors can be pulled though the shroud.

The alternator wires can then be attached and the alternator strapped down.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239036.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239056.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239072.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239092.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 06:58 PM

Now the front engine tin and engine mount can be installed, bolting down the a/c bracket at the same time.

Then the engine is rotated over and the oil line to the oil filter is installed, followed by the exhaust headers. (remember to never sieze the studs and put the exhaust gaskets in place)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239399.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239441.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239470.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239486.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 07:01 PM

The intakes and fuel rails can go on next. The injectors should have new o-rings (with o-ring lube) installed on them. It is almost impossible to describe the placement of all of these pieces for the injection system. Make sure you take lots of pictures before dissassembly.

I updated my car with the newer plastic manifolds and throttle body at the same time.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239624.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239642.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239663.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239680.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239703.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 07:06 PM

Before placing the manifold assembly on the engine, install the cruise control unit.
The newer plastic manifolds have different pipiing and holders than the older aluminum intakes.

I also installed a cone air filter assembly. This came with a small L-Bracket that I couldn't find any use for. As best I could tell the manufacturer expected the filter and air flow sensor to just rest on top of the engine and vibrate.

I made up an aluminum bracket to secure it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239872.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239901.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239921.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239941.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239960.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159239977.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 07:14 PM

Up to this point I had been avoiding setting the valve lash because I am still missing one of the lock nuts for the adjusters. But I decided to do all of them but #5 intake so I could keep going. In some of the pictures you may see the cup pipe, cat bypass and parts of the heat exchangers installed. This was a mistake on my part because:

1. before installing the hear exchanger piping the fiber shrouds need to be installed
2. it is barely posssible to install the plugs past the cat bypass, and it is not possible to put the plug wire into cylinder #1 lower with the cat bypass and Imagine auto valve covers installed.

The valve lash is done in firing order, beginning with number 1, set the lash on the intake & exhaust rockers to .1mm and then rotate the engine 120 deg and do the next cylinder (6), etc. When you rotate the engine 120, there is a mark that will be aligned on the Z1 spot.

The is a good time to remove any paper towels you have pluigging the oil return tube holes. It would suck to forget about them.

When the valves are all adjusted, you can install the valve covers, plugs and put the plug wires in place.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240179.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240397.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240411.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240429.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240451.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240465.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240479.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 07:19 PM

Porsche phoned and told me my valve adjuster lock nut was in, so I got the #5 intake valve adjusted and the valve cover on the engine.

Then I rolled the engine over and installed the fiber shields, heat exchanger pipes and the rest of the exhaust.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240675.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240688.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240702.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240717.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240728.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240743.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240756.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 07:24 PM

At this point the motor is complete.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240976.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240988.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159240999.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241010.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241022.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241036.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241052.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 07:29 PM

Now on to the reason I dropped the motor in the first place.
*****CLUTCH REPLACEMENT*****

The following are a set of pictures showing the installation of the throwout bearing and associated components on the pressure plate.

**NOTE: The first thing to go on is the two spacers. In this photo it is difficult to see there are actually two spacers on top of each other being installed.

Kirkhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241231.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241246.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241263.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241278.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241292.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241306.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241317.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241328.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241339.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241351.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 07:31 PM

Next I replaced the bearings for the throwout lever, and lined up all the parts for tomorrow when I will be installing the pressure plate and mating the transmission to the engine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241475.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241488.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241501.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 07:39 PM

With lots of help I placed the engine on the floor. I bolted the pressure plate on at 18 ft/lbs, applied the optimoly grease to the appropriate spots and bolted the trans to the engine, along with the starter.

Then we lifted the engine & tranny onto my atv jack and wheeled it under the car.

After the usual amount of fighting, the engine and tranny were bolted up on their mounts.

Still no studs for the rear wheels though.... Grr.

Kirkhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241860.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241880.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241960.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159241983.jpg

kirkf 09-25-2006 07:43 PM

Loaded the car up with fluids and turned it over.
The oil pressure looks good.

Put the DME relay in and tried to start it, but there is no spark.

I connected a KTS300 (hammer) to it, but it only seems to be finding the CCU and PDAS. Nothing about the DME. (I am not a hammer expert, but I think it should be in the list after I connect and tell it to go looking for installed items)

At the DME connector:
Pins 24-18 have 13.7 V with key off
pins 24-37 have 12.7 volts with key on
pins 47-48 speed ref sensor input shows a signal > 3v p-p

Now I am at a loss. Car should start. But has no spark.

Kirk

kirkf 09-25-2006 07:48 PM

Here is how far I have gotten diagnosing the problem with no spark.

-I have the coil closest to the firewall (front of car) plugged into the primary upper distributor.

-All fuses in the car are good (front fuse box and rear fuse box next to coils)

-Bosche hammer does not see the DME. But I am not sure if it ever did. And I think there is some precedence where the hammer would not talk to the DME, but the car ran fine.

-All wiring plugged in, including the two big connectors with the pins, distributor, coil plugs, etc.

-checked distributor wiring. The red wire from the hall effect goes to (+), black wire to (-)

-DME is receiving battery power, and power through the DME relay with the ignition switched on.

Sadly I leave town for the next four days, so it looks like this car wont be starting this weekend.



A couple of pics.

Scope trace of signal from flywheel sensor.
Some pics of left side of engine compartment.
(O2 wire is not connected on these)


All suggestions welcome!



Sigh

Kirkhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159242403.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159242432.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159242450.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159242463.jpg

kirkf 09-26-2006 12:46 PM

Update: Plugged the DME into another 964, (The only other one I know of in my area) and it wouldn't start. So I guess the next step is to either replace or repair mine.

Sigh.

Kirk

ischmitz 09-26-2006 12:53 PM

Did you confirm that the fuel pump comes on when you crank. That will tell you that the DME see's the flywheel sensor picking up the rotating flywheel?

Next, make sure you get a trigger signal to the ignitors. You can trigger them manually. The WSM tells you how. Keep us posted.

Ingo

kirkf 10-09-2006 06:58 PM

Update:

Ok I purchased another DME from an auto wrecker in Toronto, and it arrived this week.
I installed it and the car starter almost immediately. Yay.

I have no idea why the old DME died.

I spent the weekend doing the initial breakin on the engine, and so far its looking pretty good. There is an oil leak from somewhere around the thermostat housing, an oil leak from the oil tank level sensor (Not sure why, maybe it was always leaking there. I never had it out) and initially there was a leak from the power steering pump seal, but it may have seated itself and stopped. Time will tell.

I have put about 200 km on the car so far.

The clutch works fine, no problems there. I don't notice alot of difference between the DMF and the LWF. The idle is still slightly unstable despite the system adaptation using the hammer.

Engine feels a little rough to me, and a bit boggy at lower RPMs. I can't decided whether it feels rough because of the new solid engine mounts or because of a running problem.

With the hammer attached, I can't find anything that looks out of place. All the sensors are reading ok, and changing as you would expect. The idle and WOT switches are making, O2 sensor is reading, etc. Knock numbers are in the 0-20 range when you do the knock check. Both coils are firing and the car will run on either distributor.

I have to fix the leak at the oil thermostat before I do much more driving. So I will probably get to that in the morning.

The exhaust with the cat bypass and cup pipe is a little loud, but not too outrageous.

Overall things are going pretty well, except for the impression I have that the engine is hesitating/crossfiring/missing at idle & low revs. Power seems a little off to me, but its hard to judge during breakin.


Kirk


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:01 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website


DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.