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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Burton on Trent UK
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930 Turbo with no head gaskets???

Hi there,

I am dismantling my 1985 Porsche 930 Turbo and I have found that it does not have any sort of gasket between the barrels and cylinder heads.

Can anybody tell me if this is normal?

Your help would be appreciated...

Regards


Steve

Old 07-01-2006, 04:57 AM
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yep thats they way they are made to stop head leakage when you put it back together make sure you lap the cylinders to the heads
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Old 07-01-2006, 05:18 AM
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Thanks Ken it is nice to get some re-assurance...
Regards
Steve
Old 07-02-2006, 02:12 AM
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If u want to rebuild the engine for big HP down the track, maybe you should consider flame ringing the barrels & heads? Just a thought.

Or use C2Turbo head gaskets for a better seal at higher boost.

SHouldn't need to though. Get some good fasteners, like ARP studs, and you'll be right
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Old 07-02-2006, 03:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by WydRyd
If u want to rebuild the engine for big HP down the track, maybe you should consider flame ringing the barrels & heads? Just a thought.

Or use C2Turbo head gaskets for a better seal at higher boost.

SHouldn't need to though. Get some good fasteners, like ARP studs, and you'll be right
Or consider the Supertec Head Studs they are extremely nice.
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Old 07-02-2006, 07:56 AM
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I just replaced my 87 930 with ARP studs w/ no gaskets and it's good enough for 402 RWHP. 8) Although I think any aftermarket studs will do.
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Old 07-02-2006, 11:26 PM
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"Mike the mechanic" has a twin turbo 3.2 Carrera, with ARP fasteners and he's dyno'd at 530RWHP and it's holdihng up fine too
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'89 911 Turbo Cab
Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
Old 07-04-2006, 03:20 AM
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I was just reading a 930 engine article in 911 world or whatever it's called. The article said the head was machined with a taper so when the head bolts are tightened it pulls the head down flat to make the seal. Can anyone confirm this?
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Old 07-04-2006, 08:56 AM
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Thanks for the advice everybody, I appreciate it very much.

Can anybody confirm the torque setting for the head bolts. I am planning to replace the dilivar studs with standard steel studs when I rebuild. I am not trying to increase power, I am happy with the stock 300bhp so I guess that this will be OK.

Any tips for removing the old studs would also be appreciated :-)

Any advice gratefully received...

Steve in the sunny UK!
Old 07-04-2006, 01:38 PM
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The tops of the cylinders on all Porsche cylinders ( Nikasil or Alusil) without CE rings have a slight angle on them. This 3 degree angle helps the head to seal. If you lap the head and cylinder together you negate this feature.

We see heads lifting at just over 200 hp. Even with flame rings, the heads will lift with stock steel studs. The only way to prevent this lifting is to lower the compression (boost) or run a quality head stud. Porsche doesn't make one.
The best are Supertec head studs. They have a unique design (tested to over 830hp), life time warranty (not one has failed) and a reasonable price for the quality offered.
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Old 07-04-2006, 03:04 PM
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The Supertec stud sets look fantastic and I agree that they are reasonably priced. Are there any other good alternatives to the standard Porsche studs. Are raceware studs better? What about the ARP Cylinder Head Stud Kits? They seem quite good value for money?

Your comments/advice is really appreciated.

Best regards

Steve


Last edited by SteveCarr; 07-08-2006 at 03:06 AM..
Old 07-07-2006, 11:02 AM
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