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Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cambridge, Ontario (Ayr)
Posts: 288
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Over-Torqued Rod Bolt
In assembling my crank I followed Wayne's method of 15lbs/foot + 90 degrees. All worked out fine except my first bolt/nut. I ended up going slightly over the 90 +/- 2 degree.
Not feeling comfortable with that I picked up 2 more bolts and nuts for that rod. Question I have is, should I remove BOTH bolts and nuts for that rod or can I just replace the one I overtorqued?
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'79 SC |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KENDAL,CUMBRIA, UK
Posts: 1,580
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HI you already have doubt in your mind about the bolts, so change both bolts, which is why you got 2.
regards mike |
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 3,346
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Did you measure the torque as you hit 90 degrees? My Bruce Anderson book gives a range of values for this torque. I've found that as you approach the high end of the range the nut turns much less per added pound which I interpret to mean I've reached the correct torque. I think the best method is to measure the stretch but if you don't do that I'd like to at least know what the final torque is. I guess the 90 degree think is to get an approximate stretch. Is there a range of allowable stretch?
My personal opinion is that people tend to undertorque these bolts. The ones I've used a stretch guage on took quite abit more torque than specified to reach the stretch number. -Andy
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72 Carrera RS replica, Spec 911 racer |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 155
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Where do you normally find these stretch values?
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1987 911 sunroof - just starting out on that slippery slope =-D |
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The stretch value should be included with the rod bolts. Every bolt package I've opened from ARP or Pioneer has a little spec sheet with the bolt stretch included.
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'73 914-4 with 2056 '67 912 with wet paint (SOLD) '96 GTI VR6 |
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