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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Oahu
Posts: 2,303
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Glad you found it. I went back to try and get a link for you, and couldn't find it. Finally did, but I was starting to think I was hallucinating.
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Jon |
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Called Baum tools to oreder the step drill today and they dont carry it anymore ... anyone else find a supplier ?? Mcmaster car has them but not in the exact size that John mentions...
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89 Mercedes 300E 77 911s TARGA 79 3.2 widebody 79 911 SC TARGA 97 BMW Z3 |
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abit off center
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I chucked a bit up in my valve grinder and made one, you might do it on a bench grinder too..
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Oahu
Posts: 2,303
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Thought I'd revive this thread. Baum tools no longer sells these tools. It seems the only way to get a driver for valve guides is to make one, or buy the Neway kit. Anyone have another source for these? I bought the replacement guide-driver from Snap-On, ph 86, and had to machine it down, in order to work. Obviously not the right tool, but all he said he could get. I'm also looking for the Klien guide reamers. Anyone? Thanks in advance!
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Jon |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,553
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Just found this thread searching valve guide info...
Really interesting... Do a lot of folks remove and replace their own guides? If one did this, would the valve seal in the original seat? Amazing what folks have done on their own! |
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Under the radar
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
Posts: 7,129
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Quote:
You will almost never have a new guide that will not have to be reamed to properly fit the valve stems. This requires a special reamer. The fact that the old guide and valve were worn in together will require the seat to be re-cut to match the new guide. There is almost no point in not restoring your valve seats if you have gone this far. You should not consider doing this yourself, unless you have done it before and have the proper tools. BTW, I find it amazing that the OP was successful with his method.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage Last edited by Trackrash; 08-13-2017 at 08:00 PM.. |
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Puny Bird
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Port Hope (near Toronto) On, Canada
Posts: 4,566
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Quote:
I don't just buy tools, I make every tool that I realistically can. Saves a boat load of cash, I can make tools that are not available and I understand the job that much better. My shop made tool list on VW and Porsche is quite extensive.
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'74 Porsche 914, 3.0/6 '72 Porsche 914, 1.7, wife's summer DD '67 Bug, 2600cc T4,'67 Bus, 2.0 T1 Not putting miles on your car is like not having sex with your girlfriend, so she'll be more desirable to her next boyfriend. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,553
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Quote:
![]() I made my own CAM removal tool, somewhat similar to a commercial one. I really needed the tool, didn't want to wait a week... Went to Harborfreight bought the following: 1) Large impact socket (? 1 3/4)... 4$ 2) Impact extension, 2 inch. 4$ 3) Old screw driver. 0$ 4) Old 13inch socket with 1/2 inch extension... 0$ Aligned the socked with the cam gear. Cut the screwdriver shaft, which is hardened steel, into 3 2 inch pieces. Put the pieces into the sprocket holes, held on with a worm clamp used for hoses. Welded on the pieces to the socked... Welded on the extension to attach a breaker bar... Now here is the totally nifty part where things just "work out." The cheap harbor freight extension with a 13mm socket fit PERFECTLY into the large socket. The shaft fits PERFECTLY into the hole meant for the socket wrench. Voila!!! Perfect tool, total cost 10$. One cambolt came right off. The other one snapped the extension. So, used a larger diameter higher grade extension. Problem is, it wouldn't fit into the sockets hole. Put it on a drill press (don't have a lathe), ran a belt grinder against it to cut it down slightly, and it fit like a charm... I originaly tried to drill out the socket hole... that didn't work so well. Just chewed up the drill bits. Will try to post pics later... Would it have made mores sense to buy the tool? Maybe. But I can make it, so why not. ![]() |
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Puny Bird
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Port Hope (near Toronto) On, Canada
Posts: 4,566
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Yep, I do it all the time.
One non-Porsche tool I made was for breaking tractor tire beads, about $750 to buy new, for a tool I may use a couple times a year. Made it from scrap steel and $25 in parts. If some one starts a shop made tool thread I'll post some pic's. ![]()
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'74 Porsche 914, 3.0/6 '72 Porsche 914, 1.7, wife's summer DD '67 Bug, 2600cc T4,'67 Bus, 2.0 T1 Not putting miles on your car is like not having sex with your girlfriend, so she'll be more desirable to her next boyfriend. |
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Under the radar
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
Posts: 7,129
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Yea, I won't bore you with all the tools I have made....
Back on topic, I thought I would share the method I used on my last build to remove the valve guides. Kind of a hybrid method. I used a 10mm tap to thread the spring end of the guides. Then screwed in a 10mm bolt. I used my press to push out the guides, after heating the heads, using a 1/4" socket extension, which fits in the guide. I pushed out the guides from the seat side. I supported the head using an appropriately sized deep socket positioned where the valve spring sits. I didn't have to worry about some weird angled support or any damage caused by my air hammer or the sledge I have used in the past.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage Last edited by Trackrash; 08-14-2017 at 08:29 AM.. |
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