Silly question... buying tools

[toddu]

As a new 911 owner, I need to update my toolbox a bit. I've got a good set of metric socket's, but need to get some of the smaller sockets (8mm, etc). I plan on going shopping after work today.

What "special" tools should I consider (just for maintenance and small projects at the moment, not a rebuild, etc) to make life easier, things like specific size flex sockets, or a certain angled wrench you could just not live without?

First project this weekend is a valve adjustment... are the valve cover nuts 8mm? (I was going to check before I left the house this a.m., but was running late).

Thanks guys!!

Todd

[jpnovak]

For normal maintenece here are a few can't live without.

good set of metric hex keys (allen) get the socket style and normal L shaped.

13mm offest wrench for valves

metric set of flare wrenches for brakes

The factory tool kit spark plug wrench works the best.

3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches and sockets to fit. up to 32mm

Full set of metric combination (box/open) wrenches. Up to 22mm

Don't forget a good jack and jack stands.


These will get you started without breaking the bank.

[Peterfrans]

Valve cover nuts are M8 or 13mm

[toddu]

Is the standard length of a torque wrench (they seem to be ~16" or better) going to limit it's usefulness?

I'm having the worst time finding a torque wrench that goes down to at least 5 ft lbs, that isn't extremely long (I understand the length is needed for the torque). Found one at Harbor Freight, but at $20 I question it's quality. Of course I found some at the other end of the spectrum, but figured I'd spend good money on a torque wrench with a higher torque range for when I get into more important torques (like moving parts of the engine).

[hcoles]

the common torque wrenches don't really cover the 911 engine range very well you may need to get 2 or 3 of them

[2.7RACER]

Good torque wrenches cost good money. Don't waste your money on the bargain torque wrenches. Get good ones and use them for life.
When you are getting ready to buy, ask what to do when checking calibration. If they aren't set up for calibration, buy from someone that is. The Snap-On truck is a good place to start.
Our host may offer something as well.

[hcoles]

I bought a Craftman tw 25 years ago and it has held calibration. I looked into getting it calibrated when I did my 3.2 rebuild and found out it is expensive. I think Pelican has a program where you can send in your wrench and get it calibrated. I ended up building my own calibration setup and have done a few wrenches for Pelicans around here so far all the wrenches were close to the handle settings

[johncmng]

Craftman make a very nice electronic TW.
The adaptor can be used with ANY 1/2 wrench and the resolution is about 0.1 at +/- 3%. It's about $200 buck kinda pricey, about the same as two craftman TW.

[AFJuvat]

Snap-on makes a nice, small 3/8ths torque wrench that will allow you to torque the valve cover nuts with the engine in the car.

Goes up to about 20 ftlbs.

Runs about $175.00

For most applications in a 911, you will not need a torque wrench that goes above 200 Ftlbs. Most of your standard fasteners on a 911 motor are not torqued above 25 ftlbs.

AFJ

[toddu]

Thanks for all the replies, they were all very helpful. I did a little shopping over the last couple of days and got everything I needed for the time being at least.

I must say I was very disappointed with Sears. I remember going in there years ago when I was younger, and had to work on my own cars (because I couldn't afford to take them anywhere) and they had everything. Now if you want anything more than something very basic, you have to order it. At least my local sears. Half of what they did have was out of stock as well.

Anyway, thanks again.

Todd

[Wayne 962]

Here's my recommendations, as excepted from my new BMW book:

Tools of the Trade

We’ve all heard the clichés about having the right to tool for the job. Most of us have heard stories about a botched repair or wasted hours because somebody attempted to save a few dollars by putting off buying the right tool. Here’s the nuts and bolts of it: Even though all good mechanics will admit that there is no substitute for the correct tool, they will also admit that no matter how many tools you have, you will never have every tool you need. I’ve learned that having just the right tool for the job can turn a five-hour problem into a five-minute fix. The more you work on your car, and the more you look at tool catalogs (like the one at PelicanParts.com), you’ll find that you’ll cherish the art of buying and acquiring tools. But, you need a good place to start. Here are some of my suggestions to get you started on your way.

The Basic Tool Set
There are literally tens of thousands of tools available to perform an equal number of tasks. Fortunately, it’s not likely you’ll need all of them.
Everybody has to start somewhere, and for most people that means a small set or kit (often received as a gift). Sets are an excellent way to buy tools, since the discounts are pretty hefty, compared to buying each tool individually. Aside from the cost, one of your primary considerations when buying tools should be quality. The warranty and ease of replacement are other good considerations, but it does no good if you have to mail your broken tool back to Taiwan for replacement, or if your tool truck guy doesn’t come around at 2 a.m. on Sunday when you need him the most. Ultimately, the best bet is to buy tools that don’t break, or to carry the spares you need.
Two of the best and most economical places to purchase tools are Sears and Home Depot. They both offer good-quality tools that are mostly American made, and seldom break. In addition, both the Sears Craftsman line and the Home Depot Husky line offer lifetime replacements. No matter how much damage is done to your tool, you can take it back to them, and they will give you a replacement free of charge. One thing to look out for, though, is to make sure that you purchase the brand that offers the warranty. For example, Sears sells both Craftsman tools and Sears brand tools—the latter is not covered under the lifetime replacement warranty.
The Craftsman and Husky lines are good-quality tools. It’s human nature sometimes to “cheap-out” and attempt to purchase tools that are bargain basement. These will usually follow the rule that “you get what you pay for.” I advise that you stay away from tools made in Taiwan or China. The quality is usually very questionable.
One exception to the foreign tool rule can apply to what I call “disposable” tools. A few foreign-made socket sets that are cheaper than the American sets sometimes have socket walls that are much thinner than the American sets. This allows these sockets to be fitted onto nuts that the American thick-walled sets might not fit. In cases like these, it is nice to have a set of these sockets around, although after about three to four uses, they are usually worn out enough to be thrown away.
Your tool set should consist of some basic items:

Screwdrivers: You should have at least three flat-tip (3/32, 3/16, and 5/16), and two Phillips tip (Number 1 and Number 2) screwdrivers. Inspect the tips of your screwdrivers to be sure that they are not bent, broken, or otherwise worn. A damaged screwdriver is a quick way to strip the head of a fastener, causing an otherwise simple repair to turn into a nightmare. A ratcheting screwdriver is a useful tool as well. This allows you to unscrew fasteners without removing the tip from the fastener.

Adjustable wrench: Many mechanics won’t admit to actually owning an adjustable wrench (sometimes known as an adjustable Crescent wrench), but usually will have a couple hidden for lapses of laziness. Quality is of the utmost importance when choosing an adjustable wrench. Less expensive wrenches have jaws that will stretch, mar, and otherwise fall apart when used; this is another very good way to damage a fastener and ruin your day. A good adjustable plumber’s wrench can also come in handy when you need to remove large stubborn nuts.

Pliers: No tool set would be complete without a few sets of pliers. The three basic pliers are: slip-joint, adjustable (sometimes called Channel-Lock), and needle-nose. The important consideration when choosing most pliers is the teeth. The teeth should be sharp, and they should stay sharp, as pliers are generally used under less than ideal circumstances. Again, don’t cheap-out on the pliers. The Vise-Grip brand is very good, and a set of multiple sizes will service you well over many years.

[Wayne 962]

Sockets and Drivers: Aside from a variety of sizes, sockets come in either 12 point or 6 point, regular and deep versions. Twelve-point versions are more versatile, but 6-point sockets are stronger and do less damage to fasteners. Socket drives normally come in 1/4-, 3/8-, 1/2-, 3/4-, and 1-inch sizes. If I had a choice of only one drive size it would be 3/8 inch. Not only is 3/8 inch most ideal for torque applications on cars (up to about 60 ft-lb), but it also has the greatest number of available accessories. Your socket set should also include a good ratchet (money well spent), a 2-inch extension, a 6-inch extension, and a universal joint.
The Sears Craftsman line used to offer a great 99-piece socket set for about $100 that was entirely metric, but I have not been able to find it lately. A full, complete metric set is a great starting point, and will likely be the cornerstone of your collection. This set contains three socket ratchet drivers in three different sizes, and the associated short and deep sockets. Also useful are a set of universal or swivel joints that allow you to reach difficult nuts. Start with the basic universal joint set, and then buy the one with the built-in sockets when you need them.
A deep-socket metric set is useful as well. Again, Craftsman has a good-quality set that you will find useful all the time. In general, if you find that you need an individual socket, it’s wise to purchase a small set that has that size in it, rather than purchase the individual socket.

Wrenches: The combination wrench is the backbone of any good automotive tool set. Combination usually implies a wrench that is closed (boxed) at one end (like a socket), and open at the other end. There are also other varieties available, such as the double-open, double-boxed, deep-offset, and socket wrench. Ideally you’ll need a range of 7- to 19-millimeter for starters (and a spare 10- and 13-millimeter will always come in handy). Recently, there have been a number recent innovations in wrench technology - my favorite of these new tools are the GearWrenches. These are combination wrenches with very fine, reversible ratchets built-in. They are very useful in all circumstances, and I use the GearWrenches almost exclusively these days. I recommend the 12-piece all metric set with the mini reversible switch (see Photo). This set retails for about $125 from the tool catalog of PelicanParts.com.

Hammers: Sounds easy enough, but choosing a hammer is as complex as choosing any other tool. There are hundreds of different types of hammers, each in a variety of different sizes. There are ball-peen hammers, claw hammers, soft blow hammers, nonmarring, welding hammers, and picks, just to name a few. The hammer you need to be concerned with is the 16-ounce ball-peen. This is a great all-purpose hammer, but you may desire a 32-ounce, if you really need to hit something hard. Buying a hammer shouldn’t be rocket science, but there are some precautions. Aside from the weight and the quality of the head, the handle is an important consideration. There are now a variety of different handles: wood, fiberglass, steel, and reinforced plastic. I prefer a hardwood, like oak, for ball-peen hammers, but all my hammers have different handles, based on how I want the blow to strike certain objects. Regardless of which handle you choose, make sure it is capable of staying firmly attached to the head. A dislodged head will usually land safely on the hood or windshield of your car—or your face if no cars are close by. One trick with wood handles is to soak them in water, which causes the wood to swell to the shape of the head bore. Also useful is a rubber mallet for removing parts without inflicting damage.

Allen / Hex Wrenches: Available as a socket, or hex key, you will undoubtedly need a set. There are many variations of this tool: socket drive, T-handle, and multifunction. If you’re only going to have one set, a basic right-angle hex key set will give you the most versatility and serve you best. I have found that having a spare 5- and 6-millimeter to be a necessity, as they do wear out at the least opportune times. The next step up is the socket set that fits on the end of a ratchet driver. These are very useful for applying more torque when you need it.

Torx Sockets / Drivers: BMW loves Torx bolts and sockets. You will need a set of Torx sockets, a set of Torx screwdrivers, and a set of female Torx sockets to remove bolts like those found on the transmission. Don’t try and get away from purchasing these sets – you will definitely need them to work on your BMW.

Torque Wrenches: No good mechanic or weekend warrior is complete without a torque wrench. The ultimate tool for assembly, the torque wrench is used to measure and restrict the amount of torque that is applied to a fastener. This is of the utmost importance, since too little torque can result in a nut falling off, or too much torque can damage a valuable part. Make sure that you get a torque wrench with both English and metric measurements labeled on it. I recommend purchasing two wrenches, one for small increments, 0–25 ft-lb, and one for larger tasks, above 25 ft-lb. Both Craftsman and Husky sell good-quality, adjustable torque wrenches for about $65.

Electrical Repair: You don’t need a degree in physics to perform basic electrical repairs on cars, but you do need the right tools. At a minimum you’ll need a test light, wire crimping pliers, wire strippers, an assortment of solder-less terminals, and a good multitester. Most parts stores carry inexpensive kits that are suitable for most jobs. Of course a soldering iron is the correct way to make electrical repairs, but often it is not as convenient as solder-less terminals. The automotive electronics company SUN manufactures a great hand-held voltmeter, ammeter, tachometer, and dwell meter unit, and is available at most local auto parts stores. Wiring diagrams for your year car are also extremely valuable for the process of troubleshooting electrical problems.

Hydraulic Jack: Arguably the most important tool in your collection. It’s wise not to cheap-out on this one. Although good-quality jacks are often expensive, they are definitely worth it, and they will last a long, long time. Purchase a large jack with a very large lifting throw. Weight capacity is not as important as how high you can lift with the jack. Purchase a 3- to 5-ton jack with the highest lift that you can find. Typical costs for these are in the $150–$400 range, but they are well worth it. The world’s greatest floor jack is the DK13HLQ from AC Hydraulics – I discuss how fantastic this jack is in Photo 5 of Project 1. Also necessary are jack stands. I like to have two different sizes around so that I can adjust the car to different heights. See Project 1 for more details.

Shop Lamp: Another extremely useful tool is the shop lamp. My favorite type of shop lamp is the 3-foot long fluorescent hand-held unit on a retractable cord. These allow the spring-loaded cord to be wound back into the main housing, similar to a vacuum cleaner. The only disadvantage to these lamps is that you have to replace the entire lamp and cord assembly if you break a part of the assembly or accidentally run it over with your car (as has happened to me many times). A good alternative is the fluorescent hand-held lamps without the retractable cords. Stay away from the shop lamps that use a standard 60-watt incandescent light bulb. These get hot, and can burn you under the car, or even worse, start fires if oil or gasoline accidentally drips on them. Stick with the fluorescent lamps.
Another good lamp is the shop halogen lamp. These are extremely high-powered lamps that come with adjustable stands and metal grille covers. Although these lamps get very hot, they give out a lot of light, and are especially useful for lighting up engine compartments and the underside of the car when you’re working in that area.

Safety Glasses: Anyone who has worked on cars for any length of time, or worked in a machine shop, knows the importance of wearing safety glasses whenever there is a chance that something might get in your eye. Never get underneath the car without them. Always make sure that you have three or four pairs around. You will undoubtedly misplace them, and you want to make sure that you have plenty of spares so that you don’t avoid using them because you can’t find them.

Miscellaneous: There are plenty of tools that fit into this category. Here are some that you should not be without: X-acto or craft knife, small pick, tape measure, scissors, a set of good feeler gauges, a hack saw, a set of files, and an inspection mirror. Throughout this book, I recommend specific tools that are useful or required to perform a specific task. Examples include the Motive Products brake bleeder, the Peake Research R5 code reader tool, and many others. In most cases, you will need to purchase these tools (or similar ones) in order to complete the task.

[Wayne 962]

The Advanced Collection

The upgraded tool set is simply an extension of basic set. As you perform more tasks, your skills and needs will be further defined and you’ll want to extend your investment to meet your needs. A greater range of sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers will become increasingly helpful. You should also begin purchasing diagnostic tools.
Some popular tools you might be quick to add are: snap ring pliers; socket drive Allen and Torx set; stubby wrenches; and swivel sockets.
The Dremel tool and angle grinder are two of the most destructive, yet useful, tools for working on older cars (see Project 98). When bolts are rusted solid, and there really isn’t any alternative, the grinding tools play an important role. No one should be without a Dremel tool, as it is most useful for cutting off small bolts and other pieces of metal that are difficult to reach. The Dremel tool with a flexible extension is particularly useful for reaching into tight places.
Everyone who works around the house probably has a good variable-speed electric hand drill. However, what are really important are the drill bits. Make sure that you have a good, clean set of drill bits at all times. Bargain-basement drill bits are fine for drilling through wood, but when it comes to metal, you need the best quality you can get. Make sure that you get a good-quality set; otherwise you may end up hurting yourself or your car.
One tool that is not commonly used but can save you many hours is the electric impact wrench. This tool is similar to the air compressor impact wrenches that are used in automotive shops everywhere, except that it runs on ordinary 120-volt current. The impact wrench is especially useful for removing nuts that can’t be well secured, and tend to rotate when you are trying to remove them (like the shock tower nut in Project 60).
When serious engine problems are suspected, the tool most people turn to first is the “compression tester.” This is for good reason, as the compression tester will provide clues to such problems as bad rings, leaking valves, or even a hole in one of the pistons. A recent tool that is gaining more common acceptance is the “leakdown tester.” The leakdown tester works by pressurizing the cylinder and measuring how much pressure the cylinder loses over time. Although some people consider the leakdown tester to be a more precise measurement, it should be used in conjunction with the compression tester to gain a more complete picture and better diagnosis of your engine (see Project 7).

Photo:

I’ve picked out some of the less commonplace tools for this photo. This is a collection of tools that you might not normally think to purchase, but ones that I would consider vital, and use on a daily basis:

A—Deep socket metric set. This is most useful for those large fasteners that you really need a socket for. Eventually, you will need one of the sockets in this set—might as well spring for the set all at once.
B—Locking pliers. These are sometimes called Vise-Grips, and are very good multipurpose tools as long as they are not abused. Don’t get lazy and use them instead of the proper tool for the job.
C—Breaker bar. In conjunction with the deep socket set, you will need a tool that will give you the amount of torque that you need to remove those troublesome fasteners.
D—Digital Caliper. This is an excellent tool for making measurements of just about anything. The price of these has dropped in the past few years, to where you can pick up a descent quality unit for not too much money.
E—Needle-nose pliers. Very handy for grabbing lost screws or nuts, or for simply installing small snap rings. Get a good-quality pair that won’t bend or break on you.
F—Swivel-foot sockets. These are great for using your sockets in hard-to-reach places, like the nuts on the intake manifolds. You can get away with a standard universal joint adapter for your socket driver as well.
G—Crowfoot wrenches. These are perfect for that one nut that you just can’t get to. They are particularly good for removing those hard-to-reach nuts on the exhaust manifold.
H—Female Torx Sockets. These are required for working on any BMW. The really strong nuts (like the ones that hold on the CV joints) are usually of this variety, and require these sockets for removal.
I—Hex wrench socket set. Most of us have the standard set of right angle hex wrenches; however, the ability to use a socket driver increases your ability to get into tight places and apply greater torque.
J—Feeler gauges. You really can’t get away without a set of these. They are useful for setting valve clearances, or checking the adjustment of the clutch.
K—Flexible ratchet. I purchased this tool because it looked real cool—not because I could think of a unique purpose for it. However, it has become one of the most valuable tools in my collection. You don’t realize the limitations of a standard ratchet until you’ve tried one of these. I also have an equally useful one that bends forwards as well.
L—Torque wrench. This tool is a must-have in everyone’s collection. Purchase a good-quality one, and make sure that its range covers the tasks that you need to accomplish.
M—Extension set. Extensions for your 3/8-inch drive are most useful, but other sizes can also come in handy. Some nuts are just impossible to reach with a standard-length socket and ratchet.
N—GearWrenches. These ratcheting wrenches are some of my favorite tools. Make sure that you get the metric set with the tiny reversible lever on the end (shown in the photo).
O—Mini-screwdrivers. You don’t know when you will need one, but when you do they’re tremendously useful.
P—Inspection mirror. Very useful when you just can’t see into the rear of your engine compartment, or around blind corners.

[viejopatron]

When I got my 911 cars, my tool collection went out of control. However, since I'm space limited, most of the tools were handtools. I also picked up some decent workbenchs and a wheeled maintenance cart from my work for free. They've been very useful. Oddly, the tools I've come to be thankful I have are my picks; from smallish dentals up to robusto steel. Thank the Lord for those, they've made jobs easier and saved my ass when I dropped parts in awkward places.

[Wayne 962]

Whenever I perform a job outside of my garage, I'm always amazed at how much I take my tool set for granted.

-Wayne

[Sweeny Todd]

Here's a good start ;-)

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=65301&group_ID=2299&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

[John Brandt]

Guys,
You can do a lot better than Craftsman Torque wrenches. They are nice while they last but are prone to failure, NOT guaranteed past a year, and overpriced.

[johncmng]

The Craftman Torque wrenches are great. Had mine for 5 years and it's still within range. Just remember to store it and zero load and it'll be fine for years to come.

[John Brandt]

Yep, they're great until the ratchet mechanism breaks, and it starts to freewheel. Then you're SOL because Sears does not offer a rebuild kit, and it has only a 1 year warranty.

Overpriced and Underengineered...You can do a LOT better than a Craftsman TW

[toddu]

What happened to the days when Craftsman was guarenteed for life? I remember finding an old, rusty Craftsman wrench in a field when I was a kid. Didn't work worth a s--t, but Sears took it back and gave me a nice shiney new one.

I went there recently to buy some tools, and they didn't even have much. The woman at the register gave me a catalog and said most of it's online only. Oh well.