Engine Advice 2.7l?

[cord68]

first i will give you a little back ground into the car i brought this from an auction so i no idea of the car history other than that i have seen more repsect and better maitinece on shopping trollies.


its was suppose to be a 3.0L and because of my lack of knowledge on porsches did not no otherwise arfter checking the engine and numbers 911/92 eng no 614 i thought it was a 2.7L arfter doing more reserch it does have 911 s or carrara heads,covers and tensioners, given the fact that it has 045 in casting numbers i still dont no what the piston diameter it is or what cams it has in saying that a mini van would beat it of the the mark this car does not perform unless you rev it past 4000 rpm and will cruise easy at 120 mph.

when i brought this car it hade no oil leaks arfter 16 months it leaks from every where i have fixed most but now leaks from the barrels some head end and some case end its that bad it makes the case look wet in some places so i decided to take valve covers off and check head bolts according to chiltons book i check head bolts at 33 nm and found all where correct whith none loose or broken on a recent exhaust fix i did notice a lot of carbon on valves which would not be uncommon on a well used engine.


REPAIR ADVICE so i am asking those with the experience and knowlege what should i be doing to this engine.i dont want another engine it would just be buying some elses unknown problems.the leaks are to bad to ignore.
and the car still runs to hot 225f to 250f not uncommom on hot day.

[Eagledriver]

It will be expensive to rebuild this engine but it can be made into a nice reliable 160 HP engine. You could get more power out if you put different cams and carburators on it. I can understand not wanting to buy another persons problem engine but economically it might be better. You could buy a unknown core 3 litre and have it rebuilt. The 2.7 will cost somewhere between 1000, and 2000 dollars more to rebuild than the 3 litre. The difference is all the prep work that goes into the magnesium case.

I bought a core 3 litre for 2500 dollars last winter and only spent about 2000 dollars more to rebuild it. As a bonus a 3 litre will give you much more power.

-Andy

[afterburn 549]

being you own it, the up dates on a mag case will probably set you back no further the getting an other engine. On the plus side they can be awsome when done right and weigh less !!

[DohertyCM]

First, get you some books. If it wont beat a mini bus off the line
then you got something wrong.

250 on a normal day is really to hot.

The oil leaks....well what you can do is tighten all of the bolts you can find. You might find some are loose.

But clean it up and run it and find out where they are coming from.

There is a mod you can do that is in bruce's book that will increase your oil pressure and help prevent foaming in the case which is a large cause of oil leaks from the breather.

You may not need a full rebuild, you may just need to replace some seals tighten your heads etc...

Check your compression and have you thought about getting a tune up from a Porsche mechanic? It might be worth the money.
He can also tell you where things are not right...use someone you really trust or has a really good rep.

If you don’t have a front oil cooler, get one.

I have a 2.7 and I love it and I haven’t pulled a stud yet with all of the hard ass driving I do in it.....I believe its mainly because I control the heat. My heat never goes over 220 at the very max....
on a hot day running the piss out of it, then I park the car and rest.....On a normal day never over 190.

Look at your leaks, but focus on heat control, and get a tune up to find out why the loss of power.

That’s a start.

If you have the 7R case then you are even better.

Try that and if you have any other questions just post them, I can get you pictures etc if you need them.

Chris

[cord68]

hi
dohertycm. Thanks for the advice i should have my car back on the road this week and will do some more testing.i dont have front oil cooler. however my case is a 7R .i dont now about the rest of the motor my heads are marked 911.104.345 i cant seem to find any info on that cast number thay are stamped 10/73.
If i didn't metion before i just changed my oil before alot of this started so i am going to change again to different oil and see if theres any inprovment. did also fix afew fuel leeks which i think added to the problem by raising fuel pressure and the leakdown thinning my oil.i only just got a set of gauges this week so its back to testing everything hopefully i can avoid rebuild for another year.

[DohertyCM]

The first pictures show where the nuts are located and the third photo shows the difference between the two.

The part number is 901.105.361.01

Replace this part and your oil pressure will go up and it will help will cooling some. It will also help with your oil leaks thru the breather.

Get a good oil additive, i dont know what is available down under but add it appropriatly to your oil, what ever the quanity.
This will help with cooling as well.

Sounds like you have a 74 motor as well, and probably the ansuil cylinders. Its with CIS so it would be the same as mine...what is the chassis number?

Get your engine washed really good so when it does leak you can see where it is coming from. I wouldnt change the oil until AFTER you did your leak test and such. Then change your oil.

GET AN OIL COOLER...MOCAL or something similar...Heat to a 2.7 is a killer. You will end up pulling studs if you heat it up and cause it to all expand differently because of the different metals involved.

You might just prepare yourself to pull the moter after you spot the oil leaks. That way you know what to go after when it is out of the car. Do that leak down check also, once it is out of the car its the best time to get it fixed.

Its not hard to pull, 4 bolts, 2 CV's, fuel lines, electrical and shift linkage and out it comes. I did it by myself in a couple of hours my first time. ....but i had VW Bug experience....NO DIFFERENCE IN PROCEDURE....It was weird.....

Now once out of the car you CAN have the valves adjusted and heads torqued....if they dont torque you need a rebuild...if they do then it depends on your leak down check. Either way you get a valve job and new seals...

Look at your oil lines from your oil tank those can leak, especially the one on the drivers side of the engine going into the case.
Also look at the oil cooler, this also leaks.


Well that will keep you busy for awhile....

[DohertyCM]

Get Wayne Dempsey's book....PORSCHE 911 ENGINES HOW TO REBUILD AND MODIFY...Great reference and explanations..

Also get Porsche 911 performance handbook by Bruce Anderson.

I also have 101 projects for your Porsche. It has some really good info in it as well.....

Put these together with the Hayes manual and the PORSCHE workshop manual and you will do fine..


the Porsche workshop manual was written for a guy who was born on the Assembly floor at Porsche....thats why you need some other books to get it right.

[cord68]

my chassis number is 9114111698/eng no 6143565 mine does have carrera tensioner upgrade.I recently done valve ajustment i had no broken or pulled studs so i was happy there.It is cis setup. thanks for the tips it should keep me busy this week i will let you all no how it turns out. thanks to all for there advice.

[T77911S]

people are too quick to jump on an oil cooler when their car is running that hot. porsche wouldnt make something that was always running that hot..think about it.
my 77 2.7s was always running hot, even on cool days. then i noticed the oil temp NEVER went down, it might stay at 210 or 220, but it never went down at all. 11 blade fan made no diff. then it dawned on me...OIL THERMOSTAT !! i changed it and now it is a steady 190* !!! u can pull it out and check it in a pot of water.
also, i suspected the cam timing was off because of pinging around 4000 rpm. sure enough, the cams were advanced 12*. retimed it and ive got a new car!! sounds like yours could be retarded if there is no bottom end. u can check the timing with the motor in the car.