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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: STX
Posts: 247
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Just to warn people in the future, where did you buy those valve covers?
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Winnipeg, MB Canada
Posts: 221
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I used the imagine auto valve covers for my rebuild.
They seemed to work well. They are made from billet aluminum, very heavy compared to the stock covers. For a 964 they dont have spots to mount the plug wire retainers. Kirk
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1989 911 Carrera 4 (964) |
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 260
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Thanks Kirk,
I had forgotten that you used billet aluminum on your engine. You have a few miles on now so if they are not leaking that is nice information to know. For myself, I really so like the wire clips of the original style, and they too were no-leak covers when new. It would seem that if they are flat, as I have attempted to do with these, then the originals should also be leak free. The design, with the compressed rubber gaskets should last for many miles without leaks. Could it be that the black rubber gaskets we are now getting are inferior? If I cannot resolve the leaks on this set I probably will spring for a new OEM pair. |
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Winnipeg, MB Canada
Posts: 221
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I think the leaking is due to them warping when they are torqued. Hence the 89/90 magnesium covers leaked worse than the 91-94 aluminum covers.
The IA replacement covers are heavy, thick billet aluminum which can't warp. I am going to be dropping my motor again next week to begin installing a supercharger. So I will have a good chance to see what I did right/wrong on my rebuild. I intend on tapping some holes in the IA covers to accept some plug wire clips at that time. As far as I know I have had no leaking from anywhere on my motor. However I still havent managed to stop the leaking at the thermostat housing. I went in and tried to fix it once, and I have never been back to try again. Kirk
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1989 911 Carrera 4 (964) |
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Supercharger, eh? That will be fun to follow along!
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Chris https://dergarage.com ‘07 GT3, '80 SC Weissach (For SALE), '01 986S, '11 958S, '18 Stelvio, '18 Dursoduro 900 |
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Las Vegas
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Thanks Kirk,
I have been watching my own the past two days. Warming up the engine (without driving so as to better isolate the leak source – no wind factor), and then watching closely for leaks. There is still one, a drop or two exactly in the center of the left side cam tower bottom. It didn’t matter that I changed the covers side to side, and it doesn’t look to be coming from the valve covers anyway, but from the other side. I can only imagine that it must be either a leaking rocker shaft or a leak at the head/tower joint. When the covers were off I checked the shafts carefully for leaks and saw none. So it is looking like an engine pull and resealing that joint. The leak is so slight that it is very difficult to locate the exact source, but I cannot think of anything else. |
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Las Vegas
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Further to the persistent oil leak I have watched since the
rebuild, as evidenced by a drop or two always present at the bottom center of the 1-2-3 cam tower. As I previously stated, I was hopeful that one of the rocker shafts was leaking, but alas all were dry at the 2000 mile service. I could see that it wasn’t the return tubes. They too were dry. That left only the sealing surface between number two cylinder head and the cam housing. Ugh! So, last week it was R/R the engine, tear it down enough to take off the left cam tower and reseal. Not necessary to take off the heat exchanger or tamper with the intake stacks. The chain housing likewise can remain in place. Have to break down the chain sprocket of course and take out the cam. Later, you also have to recheck the sprocket shims (they were still right) and reset the valve timing. I was able to positively locate the source of my leak. At the lowest point in the cam tower sealing surface (it was #2 cylinder, as expected) is a dowel locating pin rather than a stud, and I could see that the Three Bond sealant had gone on too thin in that spot; it having skinned over, without first sealing to the head surface. The engine is back in now with considerable run time on it ……and no leaks. Anywhere! The stock valve covers likewise are dry. So this completes the engine rebuild sequence. Couldn’t be more pleased with the final outcome. Thanks to all for the many helpful suggestions along the way. |
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Bravo!
Well done! I envy your dry garage floor. For now, I am just dealing my oil leaks - looking to the wintertime for an R&R to fix them.
Cheers,
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Chris https://dergarage.com ‘07 GT3, '80 SC Weissach (For SALE), '01 986S, '11 958S, '18 Stelvio, '18 Dursoduro 900 |
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Winnipeg, MB Canada
Posts: 221
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Congrats on the dry motor!
I had hoped to pull my motor out this week, but it took longer to finish drywalling/priming/painting the garage than I expected. So it looks like I will be pulling the motor in the 3rd week of July instead. (I have to go out of town for work for two weeks) Oh well. The supercharger is sitting on my bench. I'll get it in eventually! Kirk
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1989 911 Carrera 4 (964) |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 76
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Its interesting that James had this leak ...so I have been checking my rebuilt engine now with over 2800miles on it, and its still 100% dry.
Must have had some "engineering" bad luck. Ian ...fingers crossed
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____________________ UK Surrey Coupe 964 MY92 Tiptronic To many toys to list..wife might be reading this ;-) Personal thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/340187-964-3-6-full-engine-rebuild-over-uk.html |
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