Nice!
Feels like christmas!

kirk

The bearing surfaces of number eight looked so good that I have
decided to reuse it. Here the new seal is about to go in and the
receiving surface is coated with Curil T. That notch in the bearing
catches the rubber edge of the seal and neatly peals it away. I
noticed that the old seal had the same flap pealed back and
there was no leakage past that spot.
The old o-ring is still in place in this photo, and I noticed that the
new one is the green variety. I plan to follow the generally
accepted practice of using the Japanese, Three Bond silicone
product 1211 to help seal around this o-ring, though I really have
doubts about the practice. Fellows with far more experience than
I are recommending it………..so I have a tube of the stuff.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166403540.jpg

I think its pretty common to reuse #8, unless there is something drastically wrong with it. I used the 1211 as well.

So far no leaks.


Kirk

The lay shaft end has a plug, retained as seen, and already
threaded for easy removal. Inside I found it to be much cleaner
than expected. Only oil really, but better to check for I am told
that they can be nasty and that shaft is the oil feed for the shaft
end bearing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482384.jpg

So it is 0930 and no reason to delay………lay out all that I think
will be needed, and nothing that will just be a distraction. The
chain and rod holders were made from 18 ga. sheet steel
according to the dimensions in Wayne’s book.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482443.jpg

The clock is already running now, for the number eight bearing o-
ring has Three Bond 1211 around it. I noted when the engine
came apart, that the factory seems to have decided the oil pump
lock tabs are not needed. This engine had only washers and
locking nuts. The tabs were included in the gasket set though so
……I paid for them, I am using them!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482520.jpg

Another deviation from stock/standard seen here. I am using
Loctite 574 on the webs and Three Bond 1104 case sealer
around the perimeter. Cut down acid brushes were used for
both. Put the 574 on first (and it isn’t easy to get on anything
like “thin and even”. Then put on the 1104 last as it starts to
skin over fairly quickly. The clock is really running now!
My approach was to do nothing that isn’t absolutely necessary at
this point in the game. I didn’t bother with the flywheel oil seal,
and I put the through bolts in dry and with no o-rings. Just get
the case halves together as quickly as possibly. Then tighten the
through bolts to approximately 35 ft-lb. followed by the 8 mm
lock nuts to final torque. Work deliberately but quickly. This way,
the time from the first brush stroke till the last nut was tightened
down worked out at 35 minutes.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482613.jpg

The sealants extruded past the case seams look to be about
right. You want to clean the excess now, because that 1104
does start to set quickly. Lacquer thinner is what I used.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482671.jpg

Now, with no time pressure from sealants setting up, I took the
through bolts back out one at a time and carefully fitted them
with the o-rings and Dow Corning 111 for the lubricant. The
threads and nut faces got a smear of anti-seize and were then
tightened to final torque, in the prescribed sequence.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482732.jpg

Case Closed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166482799.jpg

Bravo! Nice work, and I think skipping the o-rings was a good idea to get it all snugged down.

This thread began with a consideration of the original, Dilavar
head studs, and an eventual decision to change them out for
steel studs. Here they are. These are the SUPERTEC studs, and
they can be ordered in a full set seen in the photo from our host,
Pelican Parts.
There are other fine head studs available from race houses and
specialists, but I decided these were the best of the lot for my
use. Notice that they use 12 point nuts and hardened washers.
This effectively eliminates any concerns with stud lengths.
Remember the problems some engines had with the studs being
too long - not leaving sufficient grip space in the barrel nuts.
Also these studs have 10 x 1.50 course threads on one end to
match the original threads in the case, but on the head ends they
are threaded in 10 x 1.25. That fine thread should produce more
even torque when they are tightened down. The instructions
advise 32 pounds for standard 964 engines like this one, and a
few pounds more for the turbo models.

A well thought out stud design, and typical for Henry Schmidt.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166561661.jpg


This photo is a disappointment reminder. I recently purchased
that tool, P 234, in hopes of a more satisfying method for
changing the flywheel oil seal. It is listed as the right tool for 911
through 1994………but isn’t. On the 964 it is useless, and doesn’t
even match the seal size, which can be seen in the photo. So,
one day I will try to recover some of the cost on eBay, as it is a
nice tool – and probably will work fine on 9 bolt cranks prior to
964.

As it is I had to put the seal in the usual way………a hammer.

Question……..does anyone know of a tool which will actually work
on the 964 oil seals? BTW, the tool listed in the workshop
manual for the pulley end oil seal (P 216) is also useless on this
engine type.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166561779.jpg

READY TO BREAK OUT THE PISTONS AND CYLINDERS

All the oil regulator and relief valves, senders and breather cover
are back on now. I used the Loctite penetrating sealant around
all the case plugs. Interestingly the manual recommends Loctite
270 for the two big oil line adaptors, BUT what they actually used
on this engine was the higher-strength green stuff. I followed
their example rather than their advice.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166561838.jpg

Where did you buy the tools from and did they come in a box with a Porsche part number, the Porsche P-Triangle trademark and the warehouse barcode? I had planned to buy the RMS installer and I've seen knock-offs but now I'm wondering if the copies aren't exactly correct? It seems kinda unusual for Porsche to sell a tool for the 964 that doesn't work properly.

HI JW the flywheel oil seal tool is 000 721 912 60 as below.

regards mike
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166614697.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166614940.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166615040.jpg .

the tool you have looks like a 6 bolt early crank oil seal tool . if you would like to part company with it , I would like to own it?

regards mike

Many thinks Mike,
The workshop manual does show 9126 as the right tool for
the 964 flywheel seal. I was not convinced though, because it
also lists 216a on the same page as the correct tool for the pulley
end, and I know that one doesn't work on a 964.

You have solved the flywheel end, and I will get a 9126. Any
thoughts on the pulley seal tool?

The P234 I now have, has a S over T stamped in, so perhaps
it is from Sir Tools. I just went to their site, and the tool is listed
there for $149.00. The one I have came from the host, Pelican
Parts site, for $120.60. Would you be interested at, say, half
that price; that is $60.00 and whatever it costs to mail it?

HI JW the tool in the photo is being shipped to "CA 95023" in the new year , would it be any advantage for him to ship it to you when he has finished with it??, if so can you PM me your snail mail add and I will put a note in the box to forward it on and send the $ for your other tool + shipping. The 216 is also for the early engine , the 216a is for the 3.6 engine, part No' 000 721 216 10 .

regards mike

No Mike, that would be no advantage. I already have the seal
in place and have ordered the 9126 for future use.

Just send your address by personal e-mail and I will get the P234
off to you. Wait until I ship it and I will give you the postage cost.

I do have a P216a tool, and it is the genuine article. It will not
press a 964 pulley seal in though, because of that extended
taper on the crank nose, to take the vibration damper.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166641715.jpg
A week has passed now without a response from Mike of
MBENGINEERING so I will take it that you do not actually want
the P234 tooling. Good thing too, for I have determined after
further research that the tool is appropriate also for the 964 and
later engines right up to '94. The problem with this particular tool
is only one of slightly off-set holes, which I can easily correct.
I consider the matter closed.

The new piston/pin combinations vary from lightest to heaviest by
2.9 grams. For my purposes I am going to accept that deviation
and position the heaviest combinations at the load end (3 and 6
cylinders).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166644612.jpg

Looks xtra nice, But I have to ask, Are you working in your frickin kitchen, obviously not married..:D

Well, sometimes our wives go out of town...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166648996.jpg

That's not the kitchen Craig........it's the bar. Some among us are
more than a little strange!

These pistons look to be absolutely symmetrical to me, with no
difference on the intake and exhaust sides. No arrows or up
marks could be seen, so I set them in with the lettering at the
top.
Oil ring gaps are at 12 o’clock and the compression gaps are at 9
and 3.
One interesting note in the manual – “Wrist pins must remain
allocated to the corresponding piston. Do not mix with parts from
another cylinder”. This contradicts the advice in Wayne’s book
to “couple the heavier pistons with the lighter pins”. Anyone
have more information on this point? I decided Porsche must
have a reason for their warning, so I didn’t mix them. The pins
were all very close in weight anyway, so wouldn’t have balanced
the pistons even if I did mix them.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166649885.jpg

This has nothing to do with the rebuild – but perhaps someone
will be interested.
I never have liked those index marks on the oil temp gauge. On
the older cars it was possible to get a temp. gauge insert from
the early 911 models with actual temperature markings. Not so
for the 964 cars.

I just got this back from: SPEEDOMETER PLUS
WEST L.A., CALIF.
310 838 7344

My old faceplate was faded from the sun. So this is a new
faceplate with calibrated temperature markings.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166651942.jpg

OK. Things are ready to go on the engine. I used assembly lube
on the rod bushings and Dow Corning 111 on the green o-rings.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740267.jpg
Borrowed the kitchen supply of plastic wrap.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740323.jpg

First order of business was to get one snap ring into each piston,
and for that job I had picked up a while back the Porsche 9500
and 9500/1 set. If you try this, you will find that the tool will not
work as right-out-of-the-box. The piston pin boss has changed
since the tool was designed and so now the aperture or window
seen here is too small.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740398.jpg
I used a small angle grinder with cut-off wheel to really open the
window. You don’t need to take out as much as I have done, but
it is easier to position the tool this way. Quick dip in blackening
fluid to prevent rust, accounts for the grinding marks not showing
up too well in the photo, but compare the window with that first
shot.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740478.jpg
In practice, I really do like this tool. Sometimes, even a rarely-
used item can be worth the expense. What happens is the snap-
ring is compressed as you force it to the bottom of the slightly
funnel-shaped sleeve bore. Then with the mandrel inside the
piston pin, there is little chance of losing a snap-ring down into
the engine innards. It however, is a hazard from first
compressing the ring into the sleeve, until set up as in the
photo. Porsche warns one to wear safety glasses for good
reason. Today though, the piston snap-rings went in without any
fuss whatsoever. No missiles flying around……..no searching the
floor for rings across the room……and none of that bad language.

One tap with the hammer and they are in place, every time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740596.jpg
Put the pulley side snap-ring in first, on all pistons. Then install
then on the engine in order 1-2-3-4-5-6.
I do note that these pistons have a flat surface around the top
edges, just sufficient to measure with a caliper. As best I can tell,
the deck height is right at 1.25 mm, but I see nothing in the spec
book to confirm whether this is in the ballpark.
This is it on the engine for a while as I sent one of the heads to
fellow Pelican, Chris Sokolowski, to use as a model in designing a
broken exhaust stud tool. Some may already know that Chris
has this tool for earlier 911 engines and hopefully we will soon
have the tool, if needed, for 964 types. I told Chris to take his
time so will get along with come other chores while waiting for
the head.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166740724.jpg

That tool 9500 was something I really wanted a few weeks ago! Glad to see that it works well in practice.

Yes it does Chris, once you modify the window.

BTW, I noticed on your rebuild site that you seem to be using a
ATV or motorcycle lift to get the engine in and out. Did that work
as well as it looks to do? Looks like you even used it to lift the engine
for the stand yoke.

After doing many engine R&R's with a floor jack and plywood plate, I stepped up to a hydralic table a while back. I must say it is an _excellent_ solution for the problem at hand. Mine came from Harbor Freight, they still sell it
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41145 - but not as cheaply as when I got mine ($100).

Did you need to modify it in any way? That handle looks like it could
require that the rear bumper come off. Any troubles that way?

Nope, it has quite a decent length, and is _very_ stable (check the weight). You can move the engine and transmission forward as needed to install with the bumper on the car. Really makes it a one man operation. I do use a floor jack on the front of the transmission to help with the angle getting everything installed, but with two people that would not be required.

Sears is still selling them for $89.99USD but I've seen them on sale for as low as $70USD. The engine and gearbox are balanced nearly perfectly so one person can drag both around the garage (or down the street) without any issues and there are no problems sliding the whole assembly under the bumper. If you want to remove the handle it is held in place with a cotter pin.


http://members.rennlist.com/jandreas...ngine-Side.jpg

http://members.rennlist.com/jandreas...ngine-Rear.jpg

http://members.rennlist.com/jandreas...gine-Front.jpg

Thanks guys, that looks like the best solution by far. Hope it doesn't also require a floor lift for the car - does it? Otherwise I now just need to figure where I can store the thing when not in use. I do already have
a floor jack with potential to temporarily lift the rear of the car high enough to get is all under.........I think.

I just took a look at Sears.com and note that they have now
added an aluminum model ATV jack, which is only 44 pounds, and
that light weight would be important for me. I will have to squirrel it away somewhere when not in use.

Not planning to stick my nose outside the bunker for the next
few days, but after the rush I will have a look at these things.

These exhaust studs have been known to break in service. I
have been lucky and cannot remember a broken stud, but surely
wouldn’t like lying on my back to drill out the remains. So this
seems like cheap insurance – just change them all while they are
easy to deal with. Chris Sokoloski is developing a 964 drill guide
for use in the event when one should break. His tool will use, I
believe, three pins to locate the tool on that sealing ring
depression.
Then a nut will hold it in place on whichever stud remains,
providing a safe way to drill out the broken off remains.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166816651.jpg
Don’t bother looking for that nice, Snap-On stud remover…….it will
not help you here. Double-nuts would probably get them out,
and this little ‘el-cheapo from Taiwan took them all out without a
problem. Did not require heat. This style tool ruins the threads,
of course, but the old studs are headed for the trash bin anyway.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166816758.jpg
First observe that the new studs are slightly unequal in the
threaded sections, and don’t get them backwards. Porsche
designates stud length in terms of that length extending above
the surface, in this case 8 x 22. The 22 length will be both the
longer threaded section and the short unthreaded section.
Chase out the threads, double-nut the new studs, and set them
in with Loctite 271.

Somewhere along in this process you will start to wonder about
replacing them with stainless studs, and using copper or brass
nuts as an "upgrade" in hope of longer life. Ask yourself why
Porsche didn’t think of that! Then order a set of OEM hardware.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166817088.jpg

Great rebuild thread! I'm impressed with your clenliness! It's much nicer and awarding to work with clean parts.

About pistons: certain pistons have offset wrist-pins which means that pistons should be mounted in certain direction according to crank rotation. Make sure your pistons really are symetrical before you bolt that thing together, or vibrations might occur.

Thanks for the suggestion Goran. Yes, I wondered about that but could
not see any difference at all. It looked as though it made no difference
which way the pistons went in. So I placed the stamped identification/
weight group markings at the top....which seems tne natural way.

Not sure if I was reading this correctly, but weren't your pistons marked with an 'E' to mean that side goes towards the intake?

Kirk

When I say "asymetrical wristpins" I mean that holes that wristpins are installed into are a tiny bit nearer the cylinder walls on one side than the other, in order to help geometry when crank starts winding around. Your eye might not see it, but kae out one of cylinders and measure the distance between wrist-pin hole and the curved edge of piston skirt.

I don't know if this is the case with 964 N/A pistons, but I clearly remember a friend of mine mumbling about "having pistons assembled backwards on one halv of engine" in one case where 993TT pistons were used.


With other words, if pistons really are asymetric, halv of pistons should be installed "with letters downwards"...

Thanks Kirk, and thank you Goran, for sticking with this,

Yes the pistons are cast with an E, and that is where the weight markings also are located. So E means intake. Thanks, they are in correctly and I feel much better knowing it. That part about E meaning intake was probably dropped from the manuals on the assumption that everyone knows that!

I just went back and found the reference under piston
identification - "Letter in the middle (towards inlet side)". It was
right there in front of me, and I missed it. Thanks again, that
issue is closed.

One chore I can move back to, while waiting for the last head to
return, is the matter of rubber fuel hoses. I had tagged this hose
in the engine bay for replacement due to old age (16 years), back
when I was replacing the oil lines.
All the fuel lines on the 964 seem to be a combination of steel
tubing and rubber flex hose at the ends, as in this example.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166912932.jpg
This particular one is easily removed and taken over to the
bench. I cannot see the sense of replacing the entire part, when
only the rubber section is too old. Expecting to find conventional
barbs under the clamp and rubber, I start by carefully cutting
most of the way across the clamp. OK to go through into the
hose……..but use extreme care near the end and don’t attempt to
cut the full length.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166913039.jpg
Rather, use wire cutters or such to start the edges back and gain
a real grip with these vice-grip tools. Back-and-forth to work
harden the uncut portion and soon they will snap open with no
damage to the steel section of the line. Members with a more
elegant method of doing this – please feel welcome to make
suggestions.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166913156.jpg
With the clamps off we find that indeed there is a nice barb style
end for the new hose.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166913232.jpg
The hose ID on this particular run is 10mm and so I am using
here a section of the new Silicone hoses. Whatever you use be
sure it is rated for fuel. This is a high temperature fuel hose and
rated for 30 bars pressure. As it is only a fuel return to the tank
that is overkill, but I already had the hose section on hand.
Purist will wonder if the original style clamp could be used. NO. It
is very close to a number six air conditioning ferrule but there is
no way to get one back on after cutting it from the fitting. You
will have to buy the entire line if the original look is important
enough.

For me, I used a stainless worm clamp, BUT be sure to get clamps
with smooth clamping surfaces. Those with the open worm
screw grooves will ruin silicone hose like this in short order.

Some of the other flex ends must be done in place, for the metal
sections run all the way under the car to the fuel tank end.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166913339.jpg
The fuel rails were approached in a similar way. Those hose
sections look OK really, but they too have been declared too old
for further service.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166913429.jpg
In this case though there was a little surprise for me. The clamps
were cut off as before, but the hose was not what I expected.
Perhaps this photo will illustrate, that the injection rubber flex
sections are really a plastic hose covered in a rubber outer skin.
They are COHLINE 370 hose in 9mm ID.

I had measured the metal pipe sections and ordered 8mm
injection hose from our host. However, as the photo illustrates,
the metal section is larger inside the rubber hose fitting. SO, the
hose I have (actually it arrived in 7.5 mm ID) will not do.

Initial searches have been fruitless, either for the COHLINE 370
or for a 9 mm ID fuel injection hose. Will keep you informed………
and would welcome any information/suggestions on the matter.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166913508.jpg
One thing was certainly strange here – when I attacked the
clamp ferrule I noticed that it was loose and actually not even
touching the hose? This hose section was providing its own seal,
without any clamp whatsoever. Now I also observe that the
hose size is 8mm and it has been forced to expand to the 9mm
fitting.
I go over to all the other “clamps” on this fuel rail plumbing, and
they are ALL loose enough to spin around with my finger? Also,
look at those metal sections. There are not one, but several
barbs in place, and really no flat section to take a clamp.
What is going on here? I shall have to look into this, for we seem
to have stumbled on to something new.

Well, since the ferrule style clamps are not actually clamping
anything, it will be easier to cut around the circumference near
the ends, and simply slip back the body of the clamp to allow the
hose to be slit through. Use a sharp x-acto blade and cut
through the reinforcing cord of the hose. It will then easily come
off.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167165271.jpg
So it seems that what we have discovered in this exercise is a
development in fuel hoses that until now had escaped my notice.
This is high-pressure fuel hose, or simply fuel injection hose. I
have not yet found the German spec code for the stuff, but here
in USA the rough equivalent is SAE 30R9. All the major suppliers,
Gates – ACDelco – Goodyear, and others will have a product to
this spec. 30R9 hose will have an inner, laminated tube, like that
noted in the Cohline 370 hose, and is a Fluoroelastomer
providing a low permeation shield for the remainder of the hose
section (which will be of traditional components). The inner tube
is impervious to anything likely to ever be in your fuel system and
thus protects the outer hose from swelling, cracking and such.
30R9 hose will have an operating pressure range up to 180 psi
and a burst pressure rating of 900 psi. The temperature spec is
up to 275 F for continuous operation and intermittent temps up
to 302 F.
The photo is a section of the Goodyear product. You will find that
5/16 hose will be an acceptable replacement for 8 mm German
hose, and 3/8 hose will replace the 10 mm originals. About four
feet of each will be more than enough for the entire system, and
both sizes are needed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167165574.jpg
Another somewhat surprising change has apparently come along
regarding the fittings and clamps. Those loose clamps I noticed
earlier were not accidental or poor quality control. End fittings
with that Christmas-tree look (several barbs and no flats for a
clamp) are known as no-clamp fittings or push-on fittings. One
does not need to clamp them and to do so would be a mistake as
you risk damaging the inner tube section. So why were those
ferrules put on there? Static display clamps don’t make much
sense to me so I have left them off entirely.

Someone with more experience/knowledge of the new hose/no-
clamp fittings please feel welcome to join the discussion.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167165816.jpg
Oh, the tag hanging down is just a reminder that all the hose end
fittings are still loose, and need tigntening after final
adjustments... Shouldn't need crutches for such obvious things,
but better safe than sorry.

Do you have a past work history in a semiconductor clean room or making bio medical products? Everything looks so so well thought out and prepped, I just wanted to say kudos and you are my benchmark the way to do it right the first time.

What a nice comment renaissanceman! Happy New Year to you!

Good news has arrived regarding the head stud extraction
tooling. Christian has the prototype completed and several of
the tools have now been run off. The testing phase is underway,
in which one of the good studs in my head will be drilled out as
confirmation of the tool’s precision.
Here in Nevada, it is now time to launch my attack on the
Tiptronic transmission. Plan of action is to replace each oil seal
where a rotating shaft leaves the case. I have had no leaks to
date but again, the seals will be retired with full honors after
having served for 16 long years without a failure.
Some special tools are to be needed. The homemade affair in the
foreground has already been tested as an acceptable substitute
for Porsche tool 9325, which is essential to hold the torque
converter in place while separating the transmission from the
engine. The flat section bolts on the flange where the starter
motor previously resided, and that forked affair is tightened up
behind the torque converter edge to secure it. The extended
shank Snap-On torx drive socket has been modified by grinding
away the flats sufficiently to substitute as Porsche 9330, and will
be needed when we get to the port side driveshaft flange. The
length of steel pipe nipple has already proven useful in pressing
in VW Vanagon rear wheel bearings, and looks to be appropriate
also for the Porsche 9328 substitution, needed at the intake
shaft oil seal.
In total, there will be five seals to replace along with a couple of
o-rings.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167348804.jpg
The torque converter simply slips off the input shaft, carefully,
revealing the oil seal. Here it has been popped out with that
little VW 681 tool.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167348876.jpg
The new shaft seal gets pressed all the way into its recess here.
The pipe nipple worked fine, and will gain another sticker –
Tiptronic input shaft seal.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167348946.jpg

Next will be the drive flange seals, here starting on the port side,
or long-shaft side. The oil seal is pressed into that bearing cap,
and here the torx T45 tool is going in through the drive flange
holes to loosen the fasteners. I hear that some guys don’t like
the torx fittings, but so far, I think they are a good design.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167349071.jpg
The shaft over on the bench now and, after that snap-ring is
removed the bearing and cap can be taken off. Use press if
needed. Mine just pulled apart.
Notice what looks to be Loctite sealant inside the o-ring
depression. The manual calls for nothing on that o-ring. I
decided though to again follow their example rather than their
advice. I used Three Bond 1211 as was done on the engine #8
bearing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167349177.jpg
This seal needs to be set flush with the surface, so a setup like
this is best to get it in square and flush. Notice that the manual
called for packing these drive flange seals with grease. The old
one had what looked like general lithium grease. This is Mobil 1
synthetic, just because it was handy.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167349264.jpg
The starboard or short-shaft side is different, and easier. Just
remove that center bolt, using whatever jury-rig you have handy
to lock the shaft from turning. The shaft will then pull out and the
seal can be renewed as on the port side.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167349667.jpg
All that remains now are the seals at either end of the differential
drive shaft. Replacing them will require that the nose sections of
the transmission come off, so that will wait for tomorrow.

So today I got around to those oil seals at either end of the drive
shaft, which runs from the nose case back to the differential
gearing, inside a plastic dust shield.
Take out a single hex bolt at the nose and then the ring of torx
bolts and the front case can be persuaded off. Seen below it are
a beautiful set of gears. The right most in the photo is the
transmission output gear and it will slip off the shaft, along with
the bearing, after the sealing o-ring at the tip has been
removed. Ditto the idle gear in the middle. With those two gears
out, another two torx bolts will be revealed. Remove them and
the intermediate case section can also be pulled off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167433455.jpg
On the bench after cleanup the seal can be seen inside a bearing
cap. Remove the snap-ring and work out the bearing cap.
Expect resistance, it has a 16 year old o-ring in place. That nose
section takes the plastic dust tube from an earlier photo. Grab it
now with some good channel locks and work the thing out.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167433535.jpg
New o-ring in place wet with ATF. New oil seal set in 2 mm below
the surface (plus or minus ½ MM). Force it back into the case and
replace snap-ring.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167433618.jpg
Looking at the drive shaft with the plastic shield removed/cleaned
we can now see the rear oil seal, again in a bearing cap, this time
fastened by three small torx bolts.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167433696.jpg
This cap has two ears thoughtfully included in the casting, and providing a handy way to pull it out. Grab with vice grips and work it out. This one didn’t put up much of a fight. Same depth is specified on the oil seal and, of course, a new o-ring. On both these oil seals, the instructions call for packing grease in the area between the dust lip and the sealing lip. It was there on the old ones too.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167433753.jpg
It all goes back together quickly. Torque all fasteners to spec
and work deliberately so as not to omit any of the sealing o-rings.
Will it do another 16 years without leaks? Dunno. At least there
is hope, and there are new seals and o-rings.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167433849.jpg

JWPATE,

How do you fit the 30R9 fuel hoses onto the metal lines? Do you just push them on?

Apparently, these types are also used on the 993 between the fuel rails. As you can see from my attached picture.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167754108.jpg

---
anthony

Anthony,
What I found on the 964, were two slightly different style
fittings. one was the fir tree style with no flats where one could
clamp the hose. In this case, yes you just push the hose on, but
brother, it will take a serious push. You will need one part in a
vice (protected by rubber against damage to the pipe) and WD
40 will help. I wouldn't recommend oil as it will remain too long.

The other style has only a single barb with a flat section to fit a
clamp. Pinch clamps or small, smooth surface worm clamps will do.
Mind that the clamp will not be too wide for the flat section.

You go back through the photos I posted and see if this makes
sense. Both styles are there in different photos.

Another thing I wanted to do while the engine was out – replace
the CV joint rubber boots. None yet cracked but again, rubber
getting old so better to do it now while waiting to get on with the
engine.

The first step requires removal of the M22 x 1.5 lock nut at the
shaft end. You will need heavy equipment for this one (3/4 inch
drive stuff) because the nut went on at 340 ft.lb. I found that
over 400 were needed to get it off.

Then go in with a brass drift and tap the shaft in on its splines.
The transmission is out so nothing else to do but carefully work
the drive shaft out complete.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167872190.jpg
At the vice, after taking off the boot metal straps, one is faced
with how to get the boots off the shaft and the new ones on.
The manual offers no suggestions, so we are on our own here.
The outer CV joint on the later cars is integral, so the plan is to
take off the inboard joint and change both boots via this end.

Here a couple of pry bars are used together to spread the metal
caps. In my vast experience (two shafts) the outer cap always
gives up and comes away first.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167872367.jpg
Next, a dull, rounded cold chisel is used to persuade the inboard
cap off the CV joint. There is a circlip at the shaft end which is
easily removed, but do not imagine that the CV joint is then going
to simply slip off the shaft. I have seen recommendations on
another site to use a three-jaw puller at this point, and I
suppose some fellows have succeeded that way. Cannot accept
that approach though because it places the full load on the ball
cages, and that cannot be good practice. Also, how would the
joint then be replaced on the shaft…….with a hammer? No, this
will require a hydraulic press, and you haven’t access to one then
this job is not for you.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167878679.jpg
Set the shaft up such that full support will be taken on the small
inside hub, and press the shaft out from above. It took a fair
pressure to remove it. Keep parts orientated as they come
apart. All is murky in black moly grease, but you want to know
how to get it back as it was.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167878800.jpg
Now turn the attention to the shaft, and to the job we started
with in the first instance. Clean the shaft…….check the condition
of the outer CV joint. If all is well there, just replenish the grease
which will have been lost with the old boot coming off. But don’t
mix any new grease you have, for it may not be compatible. Just
use some which was in the cup/boot of the outer joint.

Put some tape over the shaft splines, then replace both the
rubber boots now, so as not to forget. Also put the inside metal
cap for the inner end joint on the shaft.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167878941.jpg
Do the final cleaning with soap and water, then blow dry. Moly
grease is not compatible with solvents and thinners, and I
understand that even their residue can present lubrication
issues. So, be safe and clean well with soapy water.
Now is the time to carefully examine the parts and decide
whether to place them back in for further service. Anything but
perfect on the balls is unsatisfactory. Any pitting or galling on the
ball grooves would also call for replacement.
Notice the two painted dots on the inner hub. Why?
Anyone know what those dots mean? Ball size group?
The other side of the inner hub has a flat chamfer surface which
must contact the shoulder on the drive shaft. The dots then must
face the shaft end, but I doubt that is why they are there.

Notice also that the inner faces of the end caps have clear
evidence of a sealant having been used. No gaskets – but there
certainly was a sealant.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167879103.jpg
Correctly reassembled, this is what you should see. Note that
both the inner and outer ball hubs have different spaces
between the ball grooves. You want the small space in the inner
hub to line up with a wide space in the outer hub, as seen here.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167879191.jpg
Now back to the press bed for the CV joint replacement. Check
again that the boots are both on the shaft along with the inner
metal cap. Do this with the joint still clean and dry, but lubricate
the splines with anti-seize. It will take somewhat less pressure
to seat the inner hub back fully to its stop, than was needed to
remove it.

Back to the vice and replace the circlip, then pack the joint with
moly grease.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167879317.jpg
Ready to put the end caps back on. Clean the mating surfaces
and lightly dress the end caps with a sealant. I used Loctite 574
because it seems a logical choice to me. Line the holes up and
use channel locks to press the caps back on, tightly in place.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167879384.jpg