Thanks a million for those photos. It looks as though I guessed right on that one. I can feel much better now that I know for certain.

Yep, your guess looked the same from factory.
I admire your attention to details.

Nine rather important bolts are pictured here; the crankshaft
attachment, of course. Notice that with the tiptronic, these are
much shorter bolts and they have the torx head which is so
common on that transmission type. Same high tensile steel
though.
Clean threads, coat with Optomol, and clean the threads in the
crank also.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169936411.jpg
Again, nothing in the WSM about these fasteners, but the little
Technical Specification booklet provides a target torque value of
66 pounds. In this case, we are attaching a drive plate rather
than a flywheel.

Inspirational credit for the special crank-holder tool goes to Kirk.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169936551.jpg
The WSM provides especially nice directions for measuring the
depth and selecting a correct shim set for this engine speed
sensor, and the factory method will allow the job to be done in
situ.
In this case, with the transmission out of the way, I think it is
faster and probably more accurate to check the actual clearance
with a feeler gauge.
Spec. is 1.0 mm plus or minus 0.1 mm. The shims come in .1
and .4 mm and this engine had one of each. I found that
removing the thinner shim produced a near perfect 1 mm gap.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169937170.jpg

I have saved this chore until now, when it is ready to go back
on.

That group of hoses in the right foreground make up a plumbing
arrangement that Rube Goldberg would be proud to call his own
(translate to Heath Robinson for English members).

One thing I shall do now while these parts are separated is pull
out that aluminum plug and tap it with 6 mm threads, for easy
removal in future. Must remove it if I ever want to adjust the idle
mixture and the job is much easier now.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170024840.jpg
I spent the day quietly cleaning parts. Do one part of this whole
tangle at a time. Work with main sections, getting the tangle of
hoses back correctly, while you can remember. Clean everything
well, and the filth inside the main intake passages will surprise
you– replace rubber as needed (I changed a couple of hoses and
all the rubber sleeves) – lubricate the pull-rod ends, etc.

Mostly everything looked OK. The fragments on the table are
remains of small rubber dust boot on the cruise control cable.
Because I cannot replace it without changing the entire cable, I
have decided it can carry on as is.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170024916.jpg

Today I got the rest of the Motronic plumbing back on along with
the air intake horns. One item that caught my notice was this
actuating shaft for the lower air butterfly. The butterfly valve
itself is spring loaded closed and opened by the vacuum unit
which can seen above. Vacuum pressure in this case is controlled
by an electrically operated valve, which is out of view on the front
side.

The interesting thing is that unused control arm with the vacant
hole. It may be part of a system used on other
models……..anyone remember seeing something attached to it??

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170109363.jpg

Another missing item on this engine was grommet protection at
the orifice which allows the throttle cable through the rear sheet
metal. Evidence of the need for such a device can be seen in the
damage already started on the cable sheath. Most likely, the
grommet was originally a part of the cable assembly.
Fit a grommet appropriate to the sheet metal hole first – it will
pass over the cable end fittings. Then slice a smaller grommet so
as to get it around the cable sheath, and use it to close the
remaining space. Coat the outer edge of the small grommet with
super glue just before pushing it home.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170109489.jpg
Most of the Bosch Motronic connections are delt with from the
flywheel end. The engineering is cleaver and will limit mistakes
anyway, but trace everything so it goes on correctly. The WSM
illustration will insure the electric connections at the support
tower are in the appropriate holes.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170109539.jpg
Trace now through every fuel circuit, vacuum circuit and every
electrical sensor to be certain all is where it should be and all
fittings are tight.
I don’t see anything left here………..so tomorrow I will offer up the
Tiptronic.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170109631.jpg

Well done! I see this in the car and fired up in no time.

I wonder if Wayne would want to get some nice images of this engine for his new book. I really does look sweet with the clean fan... :D

Thanks for the encouragement fellows.........

This is a view of the torque converter nose, and it will center into
the crank shaft. They obviously dressed it with something but I
really cannot identify it for sure. Seems to me that anti-seize
would be appropriate, so I cleaned it up and used Wurth CU 800.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170196562.jpg
Provided you lash up something to take the weight of the
Tiptronic and keep it level, the fitting up to the flanges actually
goes easier than a standard, for there are no shaft splines to
worry with.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170196663.jpg
Get the eight flange bolts in and tightened to spec. first. Because
some of those rascals are difficult to get at, this will take longer
than you might expect.
Then remove the torque converter holding tool and go in through
the starter motor hole to fasten the eight 6 mm Allen bolts, which
fix the torque converter to the drive plate seen earlier.
Replace the starter, leaving the lower bolt loose, for it will receive
a ground wire.

Now how am I going to get all this commotion under the back end
of that car???

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170196785.jpg

JW,

Have you installed your engine yet? I used the same fuel line you did to connect my 993 fuel rails. But I used a fuel hose clamp to snug the hose to the rail.

Just started my engine, and the line is leaking on both ends. You may wan to doublecheck yours.

I compared the SAE 30R9 hose to the Porsche hose, the Porsche hose seemed to have a much thicker hard inner section. I think the SAE hose inner section is too thin and therefore could not provide the seal needed for the pressure.

It may be that on the 964 by the time the fuel get to this line it may be at a lower pressure. But on the 993, the hose provide the high pressure to the left side rail.

I am going to try and source a stock rail/hose.

---
anthony

Oh, my. That is bad news, and I am sorry to hear that we are not at the bottom of this fuel hose business just yet. Before I start this engine I shall check and report what I find.

First I put the front wheels up on ramps, in order to reduce the
final angle somewhat.
Then used the floor jack with that wood adapter (it has holes
matching the transmission hanger – two bolts insure against it
slipping), and from the front quarter lifted the rear body sufficient
to allow the engine/hydraulic table to roll under. Then sat the
body back on jack stands and removed the jack with
adapter……..as in this photo.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170283227.jpg
From there on it was without a doubt, the most satisfying engine
replacement I have ever known, with everything rock solid and
under full control. Here the transmission hanger bolts and engine
support nuts are in place with the table about to roll back out.
Love that hydraulic table Chris………thanks again for the tip.

And thanks also to all the suggestions and hints from other
Pelicans along the way.. From here it is just routine hook-ups
and then see if the thing will run. See first, if the fuel hoses are
sound.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170283342.jpg

Bravo! It really is great to use the table after doing sooooo many R&R's with a floor jack (or two) and a square of plywood.

Anthony,
Further to the high pressure fuel lines, I have spent the past
couple of hours testing and inspecting those new, SAE rubber
sections.
I must say that after your experience, I was prepared to pull
the engine back out and order the complete fuel hose
assemblies, knowing from previous searching that I cannot
source the German spec. hose. But, actually I cannot find any
problems anywhere in the system, and I replaced them all.
First I put 70 pounds of air pressure on the system just to
check that none of the push on hose sections might fly off. I
could hear the fuel regulator open and release the pressure
however, so all I was actually getting was the regular system
pressure.
Then I hooked up the fuel lines and ran the fuel pump
continuously for about 15-25 minutes, while watching each and
every hose end connection for leakage. All dry.
With this result, I am prepared to continue on with hooking up
the engine components and try to start it.
I cannot explain the results you were getting Anthony, and
that still worries me. Did you use 5/16 hose on the 8 mm
replacements? And 3/8 hose on the 10 mm replacements?
I don’t have a manual to study the 993 injection system, but is
it not a Motronic, Pulse Injection system? The 964 system will be
at high pressure from the pump to the fuel pressure regulator,
and from there the return to tank is low pressure. So all lines
going two and from the fuel rails are at high pressure. By high
pressure, I mean 3.8 bar (55 PSI) when the manifold pressure is
at ambient (either engine not running or at full open throttle) and
3.3 bar (48 PSI) when running at idle vacuum.
Even after sitting for a quarter hour or so, the high pressure
side will be at over 40 pounds.
Does the 993 operate at higher pressures than these?

The 993 fuel lines are a bit more simplified than the 964. I've attached a diagram. The fuel filter connects to the right side rail. The left side is connected to the righ side by the fuel line (which leaks after I replaced it with the 30R9). The right rail has the fuel regulator and is connected to the return line.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170362105.jpg

I only replaced the line between the rails. I used Goodyear 5/16 hose. The other lines are the one with the pressed on fittings. I left those alone.

According to the WSM, the pressures for the 993 is the same as the 964, 3.3 and 3.8 bars. The hose between the rails would be at that pressure.

After taking my fuel rails out, I pulled out the 30R9 hose. It came off the rail VERY EASILY unlike the stock hose which I had to cut off.

I took pictures of the 30R9 and the stock hose and attached them. The inner tube/section of the 30R9 (Goodyear) is very thin and flimsy compared to the much thicker stock hose. If you look closely at the 30R9 hose after I took it off, you can see that the inner liner actually tore off. I did use WD40 to lubricate the rail before inserting the hose.

I did lube the rail with WD-40 when pushing the hose onto the rail, and then use the fuel hose clamp to secure the hose to the rail. Maybe that's part of the problem. I would like to know how you fare on your end when your engine is run. Mine leaked and you can tell after couple of seconds running. It was seeping/wet on the hose, but wasn't dripping.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170362149.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170362159.jpg

Did the rails themselves have a single barb and space for a clamp, or was it the fir tree style?

It was fir tree. I just didn't feel very comfortable just putting the hose on there without the clamps. So, I put the clamps on and snugged it down a bit, nothing super tight, but not too loose.

Maybe that's the cause of the problem.

All very interesting I think. Was the original hose the Cohline
370? Or had they gone over to a newer hose for the 993? I don’t
remember the inner lining being as thick as your photo, but
maybe I just don’t remember clearly.
I don’t know that the clamps would have caused a problem. The
problems I have read about in clamping the fir tree fittings are
this; the clamp can cause the barbs to cut through the inner
lining completely, even allowing it to collapse back and partially
plug the ID of the hose.
What I cannot understand is the ease with which you pulled it
off. I don’t think I could pull these hose ends off at all, let alone
easily; which returns my thinking to the question of size. From
memory, the flat sections between the fir tree barbs were just
about 1 mm larger than the hose ID, which made getting the
hose on there a real chore. The hose is actually expanded over
the fitting and thus provides its own clamping force. Was yours
fairly easy to push on? Is it possible to compare the hose ID with
the fitting at this point?

BTW, I do like the simplified arrangement of that 993 setup. But
it appears that in order to replace the hose section, you would
need to order the entire pair of rails complete! Ouch!

It looks like the 993 line is different. It's not Cohline 370. It has "VRT 993 110 037 04 12x1.5x665PA 11W PTL 14059/02E16W...." written on the hose.

The inner section is very tough plastic, about 1mm thick. The Goodyear 30R9 has a very thin, almost rubber like, inner section.

The inner ID of the stock line is 3/8" which is the same as the 30R9 hose.

I also had a hard time pushing the 30R9 hose onto the rail fir tree fitting.

In my case, the fir tree fitting of the rail has some scratches that I did not notice. Those scrathes tore up the inner section of the 30R9. So now, 2 of my injector has little piece of blue rubber from the 30R9 in it. I'll have to find a shop to see if they cn reverse flush the injectors.

Have you started your car and check for leak yet?

No, probably I will be starting it this weekend.

Gentlemen,

I have been watching this thread with admiration. James, your attention to detail and cleanliness are impressive.

May I suggest that you contact Neil Mangia at the below link and inquire about obtaining the exact Cohline fuel hose? I would be very hesitant to use an SAE size hose on my own engine, for reasons stronger even than originality: the sizes are different, even though they are close, and you don't want different flow or a too-large gap when clamped.

He does not do small quantities but perhaps he has a shipment in the near future.

http://www.newcoproducts.com/cohline/gateway_page.htm

Again, excellent work.