Oh I see. I wasn't aware of that detail.

Anthony,
Yes, the WSM instructs to take that tension down until the
white index line can just be seen, as in the photo.
The tools are the same for left and right.
What you may not realize, from the photo or other illustrations, is
that the shaft of the tool contains a spring. So as you tighten
down that uppermost hex head (only requires hand pressure)
you are putting the spring into compression, and for this reason,
I cannot answer your question of how tight to take it. It is the
spring that tensions the chain. I don't believe the plastic rail is
depressed any further that you could do with finger pressure. As
I tension the spring I cannot notice any movement of the chain
rail, and indeed would worry about streaching the chain if I did
see such movement.
With the spring compression there to keep the chain under
tension while in motion…..is about the only advantage I can see
over a simple shop-made tool.

Thanks jwpate. I talked to a shop which has the tool and they said the same thing. They also said that the curve ramp of the 964/993 doesn't require that much tension as the earlier 911.

I've been putting much tension on my chains and have been getting inconsistent results. Guess I'll back off the tension to finger tight and see if I can get better result.

So, finish up the chain cases. Put the original tensioners back in:
careful, as there is a left and a right. Always position the oil hole
toward the cap, for that is the source for oil under pressure.
Gaskets, are combination metal/rubber, and were treated same
as the chain case to engine case gaskets.

Then replace the oil feed pipes to the cam towers. New O-rings
lubricated with Dow Corning 111.

Take one last look……..and wonder whether you will ever see
these parts again.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169245839.jpg
The chain covers have rubber gaskets similar to the valve covers.
Lubricate with 111 and carefully fit them in place. All-metal lock
nuts in this case only get 4 foot pounds. That is enough to
compress the gaskets and not much more.

Then replace remainder of valve rockers/shafts. Position all the
small Allen heads inboard so they can be changed in situ, should
that later become necessary.

The task of adjusting 911 valve clearances just does not get
more comfortable and pleasant than this.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169245920.jpg

Just to establish a baseline, I put in the lower spark plugs and
ran leakdown tests on each cylinder.

All low percentages, as expected……but best to find out now if
there is a problem somewhere.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169331898.jpg

At this point the long block is ready to receive the intake, exhaust
and other bolt on items. The WSM will be of little help here, so go
back to the listing you made of the sequence in which things
came off.

There are more ways than one to do this, and there are many,
many more wrong ways to start. So I put them back in a
sequence which I know will work the first time…………just reverse
the way they came off.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169332009.jpg

Time to put the PS pump back in place, and we need to be
deliberate with that cam shaft seal and the o-ring. This
arrangement is an oil leak waiting to happen. Seal set in Curil T
and Dow Corning 111 to lubricate the o-ring.
Torque the shaft bolt to spec. and but the covers back on. Be
sure to put that sheet metal panel on first. This would also be a
great time to replace the drive belt too, but this one is still fairly new, so I did not.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169504807.jpg
Finish up by replacing the remainder of the rear sheet metal and
the muffler hanger.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169504878.jpg

The front pulley/vibration damper assembly goes on next. First,
put on that aluminum A/C compressor bracket. Some members
prefer to grind it sufficient to just clear the pulleys. I just put it
back stock.

This takes heavy tackle to get the bolt in to specified torque.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169505030.jpg
Finally you should jury rig a setup to check the pulley run-out. The
WSM states that it must be less than 0.5 MM. This one was only
about 2 thousands of an inch, so that tapered nose section on
the crank does seem to be effective. I didn’t need to tap with a
hammer or otherwise adjust it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169505185.jpg

WHERE WAS THE LOGIC?
In the older model 911’s, should a fan belt break the alternator
light would alert the driver. Now we have a split-spool system
with the fan and alternators running at different speeds, and
driven by separate belts and pulleys – all made possible by the
addition of a hub bearing. A broken alternator belt will still have
the same alert as always, but should the fan belt break then a
new warning is needed. That need was met by the “broken belt
idler wheel” which will warn if the fan belt should break. So far -
so good.
We have a seven-volume Manual which could allow only a
footnote mention of piston orientation and couldn’t provide any
specification whatsoever for deck height. Yet that same manual
found room for three full pages of text and illustrations, in order
to explain (in step-by-step detail) the operation of this
uncomplicated device. Then another two full pages are devoted
to adjusting the tension on these two pulley belts.

Perhaps some of our more experienced and wiser members can
explain. I am only able to guess. Could be that someone in the
WSM division considered this little 9574 tool to be the real bees
knees, or the absolute cat’s meow. Or, more likely I suppose,
there was a worry about the life expectancy of that hub
bearing………and all the attention to belt adjustment was an effort
to prevent ham-fisted owners/mechanics from getting the belts
over tight, especially the outer, alternator belt. Anyone know
how long the bearings usually last? I decided that 60k was a fair
expectation – and put in a new one.

Anyway, they are both adjusted to the new-belt specification. It
took three shims in each pulley.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169587229.jpg

After the tensions are correct, the final step is to torque the
alternator nut to 37 foot pounds.

As I started to tighten, I began to wonder when I might next
need to face that nut! The imagination ran quickly to a dark, cold
roadside setting – with those little tools from the Porsche tool roll
in my hands and a flashlight in my mouth. It was raining, of
course.

I decided that 30 pounds would do just fine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169587469.jpg

HI JW sorry to bother you mid stream , but I noticed you are using a old P201 engine holder/claw, would you please check very carefully the welds onto the pivot shaft, as I have come across a few of the claws braking in that area with the heaver engines on , most where built for the 2.0lt-2.7lt engines and the design was changed for the 3.0lt heaver engine, please check as I would not like all your effort collapsing onto the floor.

regards mike

The vbelt tensioner instructions were added to the workshop manuals in December of 1994 only 5 years after the manuals introduction. It originally came out as a TSB so there had to have been a fair amount of people reporting problems with their mechanics use of the thumb?

Thanks fellows,

Mike, Wow! The first thing I will do today is check those welds.
Probably I will continue with this yoke but save the exhaust
mufflers until the engine is back in the car, just for the weight.
Actually I have worried right along about the fact that only two
bolts can be used to attach the yoke, and they are threaded into
aluminum. It is those aluminum threads that I worried about.
Now that you have opened my eyes to the yoke itself, I will use
one of the new five arm jobs next time. I have had this yoke
since the early 7o's so it has seen a little use. Thanks again!
Have you ever known the bolts to pull out of the engine case?

Jason, thanks for that info. which seems to confirm that there
certainly was an issue at one point with the hub bearings. I think
we need to be careful in setting that belt tension.

HI JW I have never seen the threads pull out of the case with the engine on the stand/claw, I have some photos of one of the engine claw's that started to drop with a SC engine on it , the lad's in the workshop got it before it hit the ground, I made a new one for him and had the old one in part'x , I only use it for gearbox work, I should cut the legs off it and put a new set of legs and shaft on it, then I can use it properly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169662661.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169662687.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169662718.jpg

this is what it should look like.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169662930.jpg

regards mike

Thanks again Mike. That is a frightening story, and certainly
sufficient motivation to obtain the new style yoke - now.

I got the distributors back on today, along with new caps, rotors
and new ignition harness. I will miss the decals which were on
the old harness, where it goes over the fan housing. The A/C
R12 data will not be missed, but the other decal was a nice
illustration of the distributor caps/wire positions and firing order.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169678126.jpg
I also got the fuel rails, injectors and lines back on. Several of
the plastic intake tubes had cracks around the flange area so I
replaced all six with new ones.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169678201.jpg

James you can buy the yellow distributor lead decal ... 964.602.544.01

I brought one ready for my up and coming 964 rebuild.

finish the job for 51 ukpence...approx 25UScents!!!

James .

You engine parts look so clean. Did you replate (yellow Cadmium) all your washer, nuts bolts, brackets or just buy new, or were you just lucky they were new any way ?

Reason I ask as i'm looking at replating all my parts with a DIY Cadmium kit.

Ian

Hi Ian,
Thank you for that tip on the decals – I didn’t expect them to
be still available. Now I have that one on order.
Most of the 6mm and 8mm hardware I just replaced with
new. Some of the brackets I did re-plate. The straps and
hardware for the fan housing first went out to a local outfit, for
plating in yellow zinc. They gave back such a laughable job, I
finally bead-blasted their finish off too and plated them here in
nickel. The fan pulleys I also did in nickel.
I like yellow cad just fine, but you are unlikely to find anyone
doing it…….the environmental issues involved have made the
process out of the question for small operations. What you get
instead, is zinc plate with a yellow dye. Zinc is OK, especially
where a thin plate is needed as on tight fitting parts, but it’s not
the real thing. I like nickel better for looks, feel and resistance to
corrosion. But that is just me.

Today I got the air duct on between the heat-exchangers.
Also the engine hanger and center muffler hanger.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169766856.jpg
I mentioned before that we should keep the small, tightening
Allen heads inboard – so they can be taken out easily without
dropping the engine, should the need ever arise. To do that
though, one cannot just run an extension down the bores for the
torque wrench. At least one fastener will need the actual tool for
the job. My inch pound torque wrench only went to 50 so I have
been waiting for this tool to arrive. It came today and so the last
two rocker shaft bolts are tightened to spec.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169766945.jpg
With that done, the valve covers go back on. DC 111 as lubricant
on the rubber gaskets. Only 7 pounds on the nuts – the new
wrench found another use already!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169767046.jpg
I took the recent advice from Mike very much to heart. This is
about as far as I am prepared to stretch my luck with the four-
arm engine holder. It is nice to be able to rotate, but let’s also
be safe. Also not much need to rotate from here on out.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169767120.jpg
So, this is the new order……..thanks to the People’s Republic of
China (and Chris – few pages back – this thread).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169767197.jpg

Enjoy the table, it is one of my favorite tools - it really makes life easy with a heavy engine.

While I was out walking just now, I got to thinking about the
chain case covers and the valve covers on the 964 engines.
While they are very similar both in design and function, sharing
also the same thick rubber-style (probably neoprene) gaskets,
the fasteners used on the covers have evolved along slightly
different lines.
The valve covers use thick aluminum washers and nylon-insert,
lock nuts set at seven pounds; while the chain covers use thick
rubber washers under steel cups and with steel lock nuts set at
four pounds, all being mounted to 6 mm studs. It might
reasonably be expected that the explanation for these
differences is rooted in the underlying materials. And there it
is…….for although they both use 6 mm studs, the valve cover
studs screw into aluminum material while the chain studs
must anchor into Magnesium, which certainly will result in reduced
tensile strength for the later. That logic seems to explain the use
of rubber washers to cushion along with a reduced tightening
tension, in order to give the chain cover fasteners a fighting
chance under high vibration operating conditions.

What about the use of nylon-insert nuts on the valve covers
though? They are the only nyloc nuts I remember seeing
anywhere on the engine. A quick check with the parts listing
reveals that yes, they are different part numbers.
Perhaps a more knowledgeable Pelican can shed additional light
on the subject.

Weird, the 993 which uses the same 964 parts calls for 7ft-lbs for the chain housing cover. The 964 WSM states 4, the 993 WSM states 7.

Weird is the word! And I certainly cannot explain it. Not likely to
simply be a misprint or typo, for the four pound spec. is in every
one of the publications. Maybe someone will know……

Here is another weird one, and I doubt any will know the
answer. Today I got around to the bell housing and spent over
an hour searching, without success, for a tightening value to use
on those four 10 mm torx head bolts seen in the photo.

The housing is not an engine part and there is no mention of in
the engine volume. It is also not a transmission part, so no
mention in the tiptronic volume. It is not mentioned
anywhere…..just fell through the crack! Not the WSM, not the
BENTLEY manual, and not the little spec. book either.

Eventually, I gave each of them blue loctite and 32 foot pounds.
Should anyone have a proper factory setting I would love to hear
it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169852616.jpg
Also a question arose at the other end of the engine, while
putting on the sheet metal and sound pads. That long oil pipe,
which will deliver to the filter housing, certainly needs a support
around the pulley end of the engine. There was nothing there
when I tore it down so didn’t have a clue. But I did note a
threaded 6mm hole in the engine carrier center section that looks
about right. Nothing else was using the hole so I fitted a clamp,
using a larger, 8mm nut as spacer to avoid any tension on the
pipe.

Can any 964 owners remember how the original pipe support
was done? No illustrations could be found!


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169852800.jpg

Here are some pics from my previous oil leak repairs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169860606.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1169860629.jpg