cannot seperate case ?

911 Wannabe · 11-24-2006, 06:16 PM

Have triple checked that all bolts , nuts are off, whacking with mallet with
no seperation? Any ideas.... Have not used the breather access pry method.......

Followed all of Waynes step by step procedures, with the exception of removing head bolts and pistons. Cannot turn over to access some piston.............

zbph10 · 11-24-2006, 06:26 PM

Probably too obvious but is the flywheel and the bolts behind it off?

Once I got all the bolts off it came apart fairly easy.

Good luck

philippeF · 11-25-2006, 01:32 AM

hello
don't be afraid to apply some "force"
it usually requires some efforts to separate the parts when it's an old engine.
Philippe

philippeF · 11-25-2006, 01:38 AM

hi again
i've read it again :
you can't separate the case without removing the head bolts !
i may not understand but you don't want to split the case without removing heads and cylinders ??!!

philippeF · 11-25-2006, 01:51 AM

hi again

(must be tired)

my mistake
you could (in a technical point of view) separate the complete head - cylinder - case assembly (assuming you removed the chains)...but nobody does...

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

I would be sure your really REALLY have all the nuts removed... SOmeones that get missed:

There's one in the chain-case area.
The through-bolts beheind the oil-cooler
What about the one under the fan-housing?
Some nuts are on the opposite side of the case...
Are you suure a piston isn't hanging up on a skirt?

I like to use a big rubber mallet. Don't resort to prying.

911 Wannabe · 11-25-2006, 06:05 AM

Thanks for replies, Pistons will move within walls, all nuts removed,
only thing left is to use mallet on my head !
some pics if you would review,

Thanks, Marti

http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=473281

http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=473282

http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=473283

http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=473285

cgarr · cgarr's Garage

Is it off the engine stand??

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

Looks like you got the tricky ones...

Use the mallet, or a piece of 2x4 on the case and give it a few firm whacks. Don't go crazy, but "shock it".

MBEngineering · 11-25-2006, 10:24 AM

HI will this help to find all the studs/nuts.3.0 L stud's (PLURAL) depth

regards mike

911 Wannabe · 11-25-2006, 03:01 PM

splits evenly around almost the length of bolts approx. 3/4" then dead stops. Could not turn the main shaft, and if you look @ Attached pic its seems to be hanging up on piston that is down, Even though piston somewhat moves freely

http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=473389

cgarr · cgarr's Garage

remove the pistons and your done!

Dennis Kalma · Dennis Kalma's Garage

I agree....remove the pistons, it is not that big a deal, the circlips come out with a small screwdriver, the wrist pins usually come out fairly easy with a drift and a light hammer....

Dennis

911 Wannabe · 11-25-2006, 04:43 PM

Thanks for replies, Main shaft is seized cannot rotate to access piston for wrist pin removal, this also seems to be the same area that is hung up when trying to split.........

BoxxerSix · 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 911 Wannabe
Thanks for replies, Main shaft is seized cannot rotate to access piston for wrist pin removal, this also seems to be the same area that is hung up when trying to split.........

Mainshaft seized...ewwww

Should be a "fun" rebuild. I had one 3.3 rebuild that did this and had to soak the entire lower end of the motor in a 55 gallon drum of Kroil(very fine penetrating oil) to allow me to turn it over. If you can get the case halves apart just a bit you should be able to get in there and shopefully spray the ever living crap out of the internals with penetrating oil to help loosen up some parts enough to get it to move a bit.

Walt Fricke · 11-26-2006, 10:43 PM

Well - assuming that some of the case 8mm studs weren't outfitted with aluminum washers, which got squashed but you didn't spot them and pry them off, which might account for you being able to split the case up to 19mm but not more -

How about relieving the frustration by taking off all the pistons you can get to. If you can get to one end of a wrist pin, you can get that pin out. A pain, and calls for some cleverness, but you can do it. And then remove the rods from those throws.

I assume that by mainshaft you mean crank shaft. You might be lucky and find that the bad rod journal is somewhere other than where things are hanging up, and then you can rotate the crank and pull the remaining pistons off after you have some of the rods out.

If not, you have done some work you will have to do anyway, eliminated at least some possibilities, gained a bit more access into the case innards so you can perhaps see what is going on (mirrors and lights will help), and will be better able to spray penetrating oil all over where you may need to following Adam's lead (assuming you don't have a 55 gallon drum of penetrant lying around).

Disjointed ideas: If you don't plan to reuse the chains, cut them (or just grind the heads off of two of the link rivets) and pull them out. I don't suppose they have fallen into the case and gotten jammed up somehow? And from one picture it looks like the chain on the left side is all nicely out.

Looks like you could remove the rings on that #3 piston. Even if the #3 rod is frozen you should get a "soft" stop if it is the side of the piston binding on the spigot, so maybe a ring is causing it to be a "hard" stop? If you don't plan to reuse the rings, all the easier to get them out.

There is seized and seized - how about putting two bolts back in the end of the crank and putting a crow bar or even longer cheater bar between them to get more leverage to see if you can't get it to move enough to remove more stuff?

But don't give in and pry on case mating surfaces. Once the sealant is broken, hammering isn't really needed, so my guess (and yours) is that brute force is not too likely to help as something mechanical is causing this.

Good luck.

Walt Fricke

David · David's Garage

Here's what I did to separate the case:

ONQRACIng · ONQRACIng's Garage

I agree, remove all the pistons that you can, spend the time and get them off. Then, I am able to access my rod bolts throught the open spigots with a long extension and a swivel adapter, just be sure you get on the bolts as square as possible. Once you have all the rods off that you can, go back and "work" the casr with a piece of OAK, nice and hard, better than poplar or pne which absorbs some of the force from a dead - blow...

Just my two cents

boxermania · 12-27-2006, 06:56 PM

I would try to remove the #4, #5 and #6 pistons, since the case will be closed from that side upon the completion of the rebuild.

Be gentle and don't damage the split-line of the cases!!!!!!!

snowman · 12-27-2006, 11:08 PM

Do not hammer to hard. You almost have certainly missed something somewhere. There is no such thing as magic, just missed bolts/nuts. If the case is not seperating in at lease one area you definately have some left over fasteners holding it togather. Look, look again, go back a few hours later and look again. Go over every photo and book that shows the nuts and bolts. THere a cuple of hidden ones, they are shown in pictures showing the hidden nuts (sorry I couldn't phrase it any better) If a big rubber hammer isn't working you have missed something, DO NOT PRY.