Thats it Jeremy??
Did you get all of the tiny black spots off by this process??
Did you polish or any other surface prep/work??
Lastly, did you seal-er up with anything?? Spray clear laquer
paint,...

Thanks again!!

Bob

An update for those who may be interested in my progress...

I cleaned upper and lower valve covers, cooling fan and transmission housing today in parts tank using Super Agitine solvent having let parts soak overnight. Results: all grime came off with the help of a stainless steel wire brush, pick and lots of elbow grease. I am convienced that the parts are clean, however, I did not get the "shinny silver alum color" I am looking for.

So, the next step was to was to try ALL of my other chemicals with no change to the grey speckles on the alum finish. I tried: mineral spirits, thinner, acetone, paint remover, naval jelly, carb claener, simple green, original formula Easy-Off oven cleaner. My next thought we to try a batch of 50/50 mutiatic acid and water to see if this will give me all silver alum finish.

However, I am leary to try acid as I dont want to permanently damage the finish or integrity of the parts.

ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT TO DO TO GET SILVER ALUM COLOR??
Thanks, Bob

I finished the transmission off with a nylon bristle wheel
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/nbb350.jpg

engine parts cleaner recommendation
 

here is the picture though not as strak of a difference as in person. Al of my parts look gray and tired...now what??http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168224684.jpg

what were the results of using the wheel? Any pictures? Do you use the wheel on a cordless drill? Where to get and please describe the wheel type/material...
Thanks Jeremy!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168225513.jpg

Got it at home depot - regular drill - now you know why some many people powdercoat - unless you are going to spend an inordinate amount of time with air tools and felt polishing wheels - it will be tough to get a nice finish.

Has anyone tried bead blasting? Seems like it might be an easier way to get the nooks and cranies of a transmission clean.

Geoff

I would be willing to bet, Jeremy, that using the plastic wire brush leaves a burnish type of finish that may well help to seal the pores of the metal(alum) and thus enable the finish to last longer. No??

No doubt, the powder coat guts may look better, but in my opinion it looks too good...not OE as I am a die hard OE guy...just like to tweak what I can and make it a sleeper in all regards... ;-)

What specific nylon brush, if you can say more and what goop to use with the polishing wheels? Weinal(sp) maybe??

BRUSH OR FELT POLISHING WHEEL FIRST??


Thanks for your input and patience with my fussy a*& questions...what can I say I am a perfectionist!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob

another update...just received "Gibbs" special snake juice...I dont mean any negative conotations, however, it appears to not going to be able to get rid of the dark grey spots on my alum valve covers...

Sharks hide arriving tomorrow to try as a last step sealant along with Everbrite sealant I recently purchased and have put on the intake runners...

I am off to try and find out how to EASILY brighten up these valve covers... maybe I will wind up having to polish them??

I will see if I can find anything here on the board...then I will google it...stay tuned (if anyone cares) and feel free to make suggestions.
Bob

Hey Tweaks - After looking at you parts....I think there the Magnesium part, they'll never look like the aluminum stuff. That being said, they are lighter and you have the "exotica" appeal. Man, save your time, its easy to make aluminum shine. You'll never make Mag look anything more than dull grey.
Cheers,
Nabil

I have used a mixture of 25% fuel oil (diesel), and 75% Mineral Spirits in my parts washer for years. The fuel oil retards evaporation of the spirits, resulting in less odor and replenishment.

I've had great results using Shark-Hide as a sealant on aluminum.

Check some of Grady Clays posts in transmission threads, his knowledge base is larger than all of us combined and he describles a compound/coating that Porsche sprayedon the exposed underside of new cars back in the 60's -70's. It apparently protects for years, does not leave a bright finish but rather a kind of muted gray.
I'll see if I can find the name of the compound
Here is a link to one thread...re: Tectyl
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/323559-rust-mag-tranny-case.html

UPDATE**

After WAYYYYYYYYYYY TOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MUch time on the cleaning of the engine parts, here is what I have learned to date and wanted to share with fellow Pelicans that may want to do this or I can do this for anyone.

I have tried most if not all of the chemicals out there...my conclusions are as follows:
1.This info is for Alum upper & lower valve covers (alum) &
breather intake fitting that mounts to top of engine.

2. I throughly cleaned with Super Agatine solvent, avail from Grainger for best $$, recommended by Chris Bennet...this completly cleaned the parts AND left a lanolin type of coat so the parts will not rust after this cleaning. This cleaner has performed as Chris said it would...Great stuff!!

3. Took all 5 items to my local machine shop which does a ton of marine propeller repair and refurbishing i.e. they work with alum, stainless, bronze and steel all the time...put all items into their tumblers which they use when finished doing prop work or any metal work that wants a smooth professional finish when completed. 1st tumbler is to remove rough areas, 2nd smooths things out and the last used corn husk to make the shine...the attached pictures dont do these justice, however, they are silky smooth like a babys a$$. (1st & 2nd tumbler used ceramic cones)

4. As you can see, the uppers which are a smooth surface came out best! The lower covers w/webbing prevented the cones from getting to the surface. The uppers were black speckled as the lowers were prior to going into the tumbler. Maybe one could media blast the lowers but this tumbler wont be able to get in there to smooth things out after.

***Now what do I do????????/ Shark hide, Gibbs, Mothers Mag wax, clear powder coat,... I am now in need if help from you all on what will work best to preserve this finish which I have sooooooooooooo much time into.

Any and all inputs greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Bobhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168894375.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168894396.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168894414.jpg

First you make sure your valve covers are still flat...

...just checked and WOW!!!!!! all 4 of the covers anr no longer flat. Guess I'll need to get what grit of sandpaper and wd-40? and put on a pc of glass and sand till flat again??

Wow I cant believe how much they changed...thx for the tip!! What do you think happened? No heat here...just a whole lot of vibrating to get the finish...

Tweaks,

Sorry to hear that. The grit depends on how out of whack they are. You can use 50 grit first so you are not sanding all day, then finish it off with 120 grit or so. I would guess tumbling around caused the deformities. They do look nice though. What did they look like before tumbling?

SP2, The uppers looked like the lower covers except there was no shine what so ever...just dull dull looking...they were making me feel older than I am...I had to do something!! :-)

I will do the sandpaper idea w/wd-40 as a lube.

I was hoping some others would chime in on what has worked best to seal/preserve/maintain the easiest & best this awefully difficult obtained finish I want to keep!!
Thanks in advance everyone!! Bob

Stress relief is my guess. I sort of suspected the tumbling might do that.

As for the finish, I don't think you can keep that polished look forever, I would powder coat them.

Varsol is the best.. but not Eco Friendly, be careful