Engine Parts Cleaner Recommendation
 

I am in the process of changing over to synthetic lube, grease,...mobil 1...AND I was wondering what chemicals you all are using in your parts cleaners??

I have been using simple green, mix of gunk & kerosene, brake cleaner as my major cleaners.

Since moving to syn prods, what works best for my 20 gal parts tank to remove old grease, old oil, caked on s&*t combo of road crap and the above...soak the parts for a day in what??

Please make suggestions for steel hdwr/parts AND also for alum/mag parts...I think the suggestions will be different for the different metals.

Thanks! Bob

Bob,

I used some purple cleaner readily available at most auto parts stores, it's non-corrosive and did not eat up my parts washer. Not to mention it was eco-friendly and not expensive. Don't use in full stregth, another source for similiar stuff is sold at harbor freight stores. It works great is in just as cheap.

Good luck,

Alex

thank you Alex.

Any other inputs out here in Porsche World??

Thanks, Bob

I purchased actual parts cleaner solution from Napa, it was 20 gallons for $145 about a year ago. This solution was approved for aluminum which seemed key to me at the time. Its held up well, and when it comes time to change it can call a local service to recycle it.

This question comes up fairly regularly. My favorite is unscented mineral spirits. It's cheap, it cleans better then anything that I've tried previously, the smell isn't overwhelming and it doesn't rust holes in metal parts washers. Anything water based I've found to be worse then using nothing at all since they usually initiate a coorosive reaction on the metal, and they turn a lot of the caked on stuff into something similar to concrete.

I did this transaxle case in my parts washer in 20 minutes with a brush and a small screw driver.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1105201914.jpg

Thanks Scott & John. Great input.

Has anyone herd of "Super Agitine" made by Graymills company in IL?? I have been told that it cleans great...for all metals and this specific formulation has Lanolin in it so parts dont rust immediatley after cleaning and it is friendly on your skin and the environment.
Any opinions on this stuff??

Thanks again, Bob

While I usually use parts solvent, I've also used diesel fuel for really caked on stuff. It's worked well as a primary cleaner and relatively inexpensive.

Mineral spirits in my 20 gal parts washer.

Tried the bio stuff from Northern Tool and I would have died from old age before the parts were clean. Got rid of it the bio stuff the first weekend.

Thumbs up on using Diesel!

Thanks guys for all of the options. Looks like a several step process.

After one gets to the base metal, lets say alum of the case or the 915 trans, how does one get that spotless BRIGHT Silver metal color like what John above got? Spill John...how did you get this final result? (I dont want to paint or powder coat...I like bare el natural metal...maybe rattle can clear laquer spraypaint to protect metal and appearance for the next 5 yrs or till needs service again after final cleaning ) It looks perfect!!!!!!! My guess is to use MEK or Laquor thinner or mineral spirits or paint stripper...flush reallyy well after, then maybe the clear laquer spaint??

After I get this figured out I will post my results...just trying to get the chemical(s) needed so I can start.
Bob

Hey John a.k.a. Jluetjin - Please help us all out on what you used to get the bright silver color on your trans?? I guess I could experinment, however, I dont want to do lasting damage to anything... Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :-)

Silver??? That's magnesium's natural flat gray. After I cleaned everything up, I then coated the outside with Tectyl, and sprayed the inside surfaces with WD-40.

It was Kurt V who had cleaned up the aluminum 915, so you'll need to ask him about what he did.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1105640809.jpg

In that picture, you can still see the black, caked on "cement" stuff that is often left over after cleaning with water-based solutions. I've found that this stuff is a lot harder to get off after washing a part with water based cleaners then it would be if you had just started with mineral spirits in the first place. I'm no chemist, but it seams that the water based cleaners pull the lighter oils out of that crud, and leave the solids "cemented" in place. Mineral spirits disolves all of the oils, and then any solids which remain easily brush off.

I suspect that once you use water based cleaner on Aluminum or Magnesium, it will start to corrode almost immediately. Letting it dry and then sealing it with a varnish or something like that I suspect will not stop the corrosion from continuing underneath that finish. You could try baking it right after washing to speed up the drying process, but I'd still be concerned about any residual chemicals on the part that will still corrode the metal. Mineral spirits will not do this.

As far as getting the mineral spirits, almost any paint supply, hardware or even Walmart should have it.

Thanks John!! I'll try the mineral spirits and see where it takes me. I have valve covers, engine case, 915 trans case, cooling fan & its schroud, engine tin and hdwr to clean.

I'll let you all know how this works out!!

Bob

A lot of the 'engine degreaser spray cans' are just diesel. I fill a 5 gallon pail and just soak things in it till they are clean.

PBH- Have you ever used mineral spirits? In your use of diesel fuel, do you have to scrub the parts and how about any gasket mat'l on parts?? Does it come off or soften up enough??
Is this the first step in cleaning, last step maybe your only step by increasing duration till clean?? Any discoloration to the parts? How do you finish off the cleaning process?? just wipe dry?? spray on wd40 to prevent any rust??
Thanks!! Bob

I bought a cement mixing tub and used 3 gallons of diesel fuel at 2.79 per gallon.

I found must gunked on stuff if left sitting would scrub off easily with a nylon brush.

While not quite fair with the new powdercoating, you get the cleaning idea...
Before
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167967492.jpg

After
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167967603.jpg

Check the farm supply places. Around here it's Tractor Supply. They have the good old nasty leave your hands dry as bone parts cleaner in 5 gal cans for around 40 bucks. Doesn't smell as bad as Mineral Spirits (still smells tho) and does a better job in my opinion. You can rinse parts in hot water after and then blow dry with compressor. Tractor Supply has a web site you can check it out there to see what its called. Something like PCS1000 or PSC1000 anyhow seems to be good stuff.
Keep the 5 gal can to dump back into when ready to get rid of.

Hi Jeremy,

Looks like great results!! Especially $$ wise... Can you explain the process- step by step- what you did to get this result on the trans?? Did you do any polishing on the trans or final surface treatmant to try and retain this finish??

You have the least $$ so far...not that the cost is my objective, however, no need to spend more than necessary. Or, I would spend more on anything as long as it can be well proven to provide superior results vs. the "regular" method of what ever the project is at the time.

Thankyou!! Bob

I have a wash tank, so the diesel is the first step, mineral spirits (wash tank) are next. I like it because a) it's cheap b) I can soak things c) it's not super-flammable.

It definitely isn't perfect. It does stink, it does discolor some stuff, and it still requires wire brushing and scraping.

With the transmission - basically I put some diesel in a sprayer - and sprayed it on over a couple of days letting it soak. Then I power washed it - then I sprayed it with a little simple green and a nylon bristle brush...