Need Advice From Any?everyone?

[Green Light 911]

Some of you replied to a previous post of mine. (can I rebuild my 911). Well everyone said to go for it and I started. I bought and read the beginning of Wayne's book. Then dropped the engine last Sunday. And then found the previous owners VERY VERY poor rebuild. Pulled exhaust. All valve guides on the drivers side of the car are split and broken off. One stuck valve for sure. Pass side guides look fine. Numerous nuts and bolts missing. Broken bolts. Missing hoses. Missing wires. An all in all crazy mess. Transmission has 1 2 and 3 syncros out.

This is where I need your advice. I found a used engine and trans from German Auto Dismantlers out of Cleveland, GA. Got a guarantee on compression and leakdown tests. Was told this will be ready to install upon delivery. Does anyone know anything about this company? They are a huge salvage business, specializing in German cars. Can they be trusted?

I know the engine I have now needs work, valve job at least. How much will a machine shop charge for a complete valve job? I hate to fix other peoples mistakes and am thinking the other engine and trans will give me the best outcome. Q- What do you think?

[YTNUKLR]

I bet your engine probably looks bad, but you can't really know unless you take it apart and see. You might get lucky. If you don't and your engine is in really horrible shape, I'd recommend looking for a good "core" engine (something in OK, typical used shape) to rebuild. I think buying used engines from dismantlers can be pretty dicey...head studs break, mileage (do you know it??), dishonesty, other crappy rebuilds, etc. A rebuild is expensive but when you're done it's a known quantity, and there is a lot of peace of mind in that.

[ChrisBennet]

I have and do advise my friends to steer clear of German Auto Dismantlers (formerly PAP). I guess I'm not the only one:
E-GAD (German Auto Dismantlers) - Amusing
-Chris

[Don Settergren]

A drop-in engine might be a perfect solution, but you might drop in an engine that has problems as well. The only way to be sure is to purchase the engine from someone who is completely trustworthy. I purchased cylinders from German Auto Dismantles and had to send them back a couple of time becuase they had minor pitting. And this was after asking if they were in spec. GAD might ship you what you need, but...

It is ultimately your time and money, but I think I'd stick with the rebuild and get nickle and dimed through your budget. Keep posting and Pelicans will help you through. When finished your smile will be twice and you'll be twice as confident everytime you turn the key of that 911. GOOD LUCK.

[cstreit]

I'll agree with these guys...

If you buy a used engine from a dismantler, you're just going to have another unknown engine. Buying a used anything often means purchasing someone else's problem.

Do some searches here on Pelican for info on GAD, formerly PAP.

It may cost more in the short term to redo your engine, but the rewards are great and you'll have a known good engine.

[dtw]

I'd rebuild what you've got. You've got it torn apart this far, and know what you're dealing with. A used engine is just that - used. You don't say what kind of engine you're dealing with but most of these engines - everything through the '87s - are 20+ years old now. There's a very active and knowledgeable Porsche community in Colorado - take advantage. You can do the rebuild yourself with some solid research and guidance.

Definitely avoid GAD. Bad juju.

[Steve@Rennsport]

Hi:

You didn't mention whether you have a mag-cased engine or an aluminum-cased one and that factors the decision to rebuild what you have or aquire another, different one.

Magnesium-cased engine rebuild prices average almost $ 2K more than aluminum-cased ones due to the extensive machine work that they require for durability.

[Green Light 911]

Everyone- Thanks for replying. Steve I am not sure what case I am dealing with. I have a 1980 sc 3.0. Fuel Injected. Continued to disassemble the engine today and got the one head and camshaft housing off the side with the damaged valve guides. All of the exhaust valves were partially stuck open and put minor indentations on the top of the pistons. LOTS of carbon. A couple of the piston rings were broken as well. The cylinders look O.K. but I am not sure what to look for, no grooves or scratches. No broken studs so far Thats one +. One of the rocker arms has previously been replaced. A few of the rocker arm shafts are installed backwards. This engine has been abused. Someone was using it as a track car. No air shrouds all heater hoses are missing no hv motor. Had msd ingnition installed by a 5 year old the wiring is a mess. That is why I was looking for a complete swap, but I am slowly getting attached to this engine. Is there somewhere I can send the canshaft housing and heads assembly to be measured and diagnosed- and fixed? Also, I do not want to split the case. My mechanical knowledge is minimal and confusion is setting in. Is there anyway to determine the condition of the bottom end without doing this? One more thing how the heck do I get the transmission and engine separated? Thanks to all!

[FrinkFrog]

One more thing how the heck do I get the transmission and engine separated? Thanks to all!

Is there a little circlip on the bottom of the clutch throwout lever? Take that off and it could solve the problem.

[dtw]

3.0 = aluminum case motor. Good. Check for old-style dilavar studs and replace them, otherwise you should be hopefully off the hook for case work.

If the engine is showing signs of abuse or poor maintenance, you may want to crack the case and just get everything put right. Compared to the top end, assembly of the bottom end is easy. The key (well, one of them), as you will find out, is a clean, organized working environment and surgically clean parts.

Regarding the rocker hardware - some bolts go in one direction, some go in another. The shafts themselves are symmetrical, there's no wrong way to put them in (though there is a correct spacing of them in the cam tower).

The camshaft housings usually don't wear out, if they've been receiving lubricating oil. They run into problems in the rocker shaft area, where the shaft bores get scored and dinged during rocker removal or overtightening of the shafts. The shop you select to do your heads can look over the housings, too. Make sure to disassemble the heads from the cam housings. You should also want to send your pistons and cylinders to the shop for measurement. If you do your bottom end, you'll want to have your crank measured, inspected, and polished, and your rods resized also.

Separating the transmission is easy. Completely de-tension the clutch throw-out lever - I usually just remove the entire assembly for cleaning anyway. Then, remove the four nuts securing the transmission. The transmission should then slide off the engine. Make sure the engine is secured, then hold the trans securely and slide it straight back - don't let it tilt downward.