Pelican Parts Forums - 964 3.6 full engine rebuild ...over in the UK

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Ok after I had checked the pulleys for parallelism ( no change here as I was using the same cams ( reground ) and the same pulleys) ( I also used new complete chains- no links and new chain runners) it was onto the timing ...get this wrong and it wont run!!!!

Before I took the engine apart I played with the timing and marking dots on the pulleys etc etc so to be 99.99999% sure I understood it fully ..

I used the well tried procedure with Alex and Kirk and the WSM and myself:

Axl911 (Anthony) did such a great job of documenting the cam timing procedure in his rebuild thread I thought I would borrow it and use it here, and add a series of pictures to go with the steps. The text below is his (and Kirk added a note here or there...I've added a few more !!!))

Cam timing
To set timing for Cylinder 1.
1. Rotate the pulley so Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.

2. Install cylinder 1 intake rocker.

3. Install some sort of tensioner device on the chain. I used a bolt and an old Porsche front brake shim!!! cost ...nothing!! they worked perfectly)

4. Make sure both cams have the dots pointed straight UP. Draw a line from the dot through the center of the cam will make it easier to see the dot is pointed straight up. (the dots on my cam shafts were not as accurate as using the keyed slot on the camshaft)

5. Put the pin into the cam sprocket where the holes line up. Do this for both sides. You can put the cam sprocket bolt in or not. Leaving it out makes it easier to see how the dot moves. (Put the pins in with the hole facing outward, if you put it in backwards you can use a small magnet to remove the pin, i think it is better to have the bolt installed, but not torqued.)

6. Adjust the cylinder #1 intake valve clearance to .1mm like you normally do in valve adjustment. (Be accurate with this step)

7. Mount your dial gauge on cylinder #1 intake. And set it to zero value.

8. Rotate the crank pulley clockwise almost 360 degrees. As you approach the Z1 again you will notice the dial begin to move. Only rotate CLOCKWISE!!!!

9. Continue to rotate clockwise until the gauge moved 1.26mm or .05 inch. STOP.

10. Is the Z1 mark lined up with the case parting line? If not, use a small screw to remove the pin on the left side cam. Rotate the crank pulley until the Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.

11. Now put the pin back into the cam sprocket where the holes line up.

12. Double check by rotating the crank pulley 720 degrees. By the time the Z1 comes around for the second time, when the Z1 is lined up with the crank pulley, your dial gauge should have moved 1.26mm or .05 inch.

13. You are done with cylinder #1. Don’t move anything!!!!! this is very important as cylinder one is now opening and cylinder 4 needs to be at timed etc for TDC (Ie. cylinder 4 fires at the Valve overlap ( ie opening) of cylinder 1)

14. If it takes more than 360 degrees to get the dial gauge to move 1.26mm, then you either don’t have the cam dot pointed straight up at the beginning or you did not adjust your cylinder 1 valve clearance properly.

Continuing with Axls/Kirks and now my ;-) procedure:

Now to set timing for Cylinder 4.

1. After completing the last step in setting timing for cylinder 1, the dot on the right cam should be pointed straight DOWN.

2. Install cylinder 4 intake rocker.

3. Install some sort of tensioner device on the chain. I used another brake shim and a bolt...so both side were tensioned at the same time

4. Adjust the cylinder 4 intake valve clearance to .1mm like you normally do in valve adjustment.

5. Mount your dial gauge on cylinder 4 intake. And set it to zero value.

6. Rotate the crank pulley clockwise almost 360 degrees. As you approach the Z1 again you will notice the dial begin to move.

7. Continue to rotate clockwise until the gauge moved 1.26mm or .05 inch. STOP.

8. Is the Z1 mark lined up with the case parting line? If not, use a small screw to remove the pin on the RIGHT side cam. Rotate the crank pulley until the Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.

9. Put the pin back into the cam sprocket where the holes line up.

10. Double check by rotating the crank pulley 720 degrees. By the time the Z1 comes around for the second time, when the Z1 is lined up with the crank pulley, your dial gauge should have moved 1.26mm or .05 inch.

11. i then rechecked with the Z block etc cylinder one and then back to cylinder 4 ..if all is correct.. Your are done!!!

12. If it takes more than 360 degrees to get the dial gauge to move 1.26mm, then you either don’t have the cam dot pointed straight up at the beginning or you did not adjust your cylinder 4 valve properly. (My dots were not in line with my keyed shafts and it caused me some problems on the right side timing.)

Then torque both cam gears to 88 ft/lbs. ( 120 Nm) using the Cam locking tool to hold the sprocket ..a must have (same tool as a pre 89 911)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176488962.jpg

This picture was taken when I was dismantling the engine...dirty.... but I used the same tension tool (cleaned) when I reassembled it...worked a treat.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176489172.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176489209.jpg

Once I was 100% happen with the timing and it was spot in (checked again after I tightened the cam nut), I then moved onto fitting to chain oil tensioners and the fitting the magnesium chain covers with new gaskets.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176755268.jpg

Above: Not the mark on the cam pulley ...makes timing a lot easier.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176755354.jpg

Above: Rubber gasket - the rounder edge faces the engine. fully decrease the gasket and the case are and light smearing of Curil T and it read to torque down.
New grommet/washers and new metal concave washers and lock nuts were used .

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176755559.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176755596.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1179350999.jpg

I cleaned and fitted new O-rings to the Injectors ( lubricated with silicon grease ) and reassembled the inlet manifolds

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176755925.jpg

I dissembled all the inlet side and cleaned...spaghetti junction !! I would recommend you take a few photos first or you will get lost.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176756094.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176756182.jpg

Next on the car I noticed one of the "Heater control boxes" was very stiff . The flap would not swing.

( this is the tinny flappy noise you hear on a 964 when you shut the driver/passenger doors....its the flap moving freely)

I drilled out the rivets cleaned and free'ed the flap and reassembled with screws . Perfect.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176756537.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176756584.jpg

The engine was now ready to emerge from the workshop after three months on/off work ( between paid work ;-) ...ready for fitment to the car

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176757209.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176757444.jpg

Engine and Gearbox/Tiptronic installed, all new fluids at the right levels (ATF, rear diff, Engine oil, Power steering ) all fitments cables/pipes checked and double checked and it was ready to turn the key and start the engine .....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176760550.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176760583.jpg
Above: Looking up into the primary muffler/silencer tin ware, you can see I had riveted some heating shielding to help disperse the heat and stop burning the paint off.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176757578.jpg

I left the air filter and and the fan motor off so I could check for fluid / petrol leaks....nothing from the top

The smoke quickly burnt off when the exhausts and heat exchangers had warmed up...no its not the engine internals smoking!!!

...after a quick warm up it became apparent that the oil thermostat wasn't opening ...why as it worked fine before the engine was taken out .....very odd as it was untouched.

I understand 92 onwards the thermostat is rebuildable ....all you need to to is get it apart..easier said then done. I resorted to drilling the blanking plate out with a pillar drill......

I ordered from Porsche a new blanking plate, o-ring and a thermostat.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176758368.jpg
Above: On the left is the old spring/thermostat and the remains of the blanking plate. On the right are the new parts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176758457.jpg
Above: old thermostat on the left, new one on the right ...both open at 83degress but are quite different...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176758610.jpg
Above:Thermostat installed in the same position as I had removed it (I marked the old one with a non-erasable marker first)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176758719.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176758745.jpg
Above: Parts Silcone grease lubricated and the old trusty valve compressor then used to tension the blanking plate while the C-clip was refitted.

I then refitted the thermostat to the car, refitted a new hose ( filter-thermostat ) as it was beyond repair due to...age 15years of corrosion!!! ( the two oil lines to the cooler were renewed last year due to leaking pipes at the cooler end, so theres were easily undone without an issue.

Refill again with new oil and try warming up again.....

Latest progress after 350 miles was I had a weeping rear RMS seal .....after all this work I wanted the car 100% dry so the engine had to come out ..one to fox the seal and also I could adjust the tappets easier.

Like Kirk I used the Wrightwood racing gasket seal ....but wasn't happy with it when it went in but left it in ...(mad) ...thus the leak perhaps..this time I would use a Porsche seal and a also the Porsche seal fitting tool ....

Latest number for this 964 seal from Porsche is : 999 113 426 41
The tool number : 000 721 91260 ..7 times the price of the seal !!!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178218423.jpg

The Porsche RMS fitting tool
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178218473.jpg

Showing the seal 1.5mm proud of the casing ...where the tool positions it ...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178218544.jpg

After refitting the engine and another 500miles it is still 100% dry ...problem solved

As part of the rebuild the air conditioning (aircon - AC ) was next ...what a job as the whole unit has to come out ...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178218884.jpg

View of the evaporator ....leaking and blocked ...15years of dirt
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178218939.jpg

View of the inside of the air housing ..the green is the die in put it the aircon recharge to find the leak ...the evaporator

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178219021.jpg

View of the old and new evaporator .....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178219062.jpg

Once reassembled with new seals and Expansion valves the aircon was recharged and is working the best it ever has..lots of cold air

Last job while the tank was out (but it can be easily fitted with the tank in) was to retro-fit the upgraded petrol/GAS tank neck, Porsche released to solve the smell of petrol when the tank was full etc ... and it does seem to work ...no more vapor smells

New neck Porsche Part number 964 201 043 06 ..
This has a different neck and filler area ..see picture

New one Left ......Old one Right
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178219333.jpg

Congrats! The motor looks fantastic! The flywheel seal tool looks handy. Maybe next time I will buy one.

I still have a leak at my oil thermostat. I had it apart once already and tightened the oil lines, but apparently I didnt solve the problem.

Have fun driving!

Kirk

That WAS the ugliest evaporator I've ever seen. Was it possible to inspect it before you yanked the entire assembly? Are you finished with the project or do you have more tricks up your sleeves?

Thanks ..so far 1000miles ..dry and going very well ..pulls like train, bags of torque ..and noticeable smoother....

I put 500 miles on it in two days this week ...long trip and fast ..the engine liked it and still 100% dry.

My thermostat is 100% dry so you must have a bur somewhere.

As for the Old seal in the kit ....same issue as yours I fell .....you replaced it early I left it .....

thanks
Ian

No you can only see it when its out ...... ugly think

I might have a few tricks ...!!!:D

Ian,

Wow, excellent thread! I took you only about a month?? Very professional looking! Congratulations and thank you for sharing these photos with us.

A couple of jobs that need doing ....this is actually in the WSM ( under fault finding !!!) but how many carry this little task out on the ignition modules...cleaning and re-greasing for maximum heat transfer ....this will help with the "modules" reliability.

Looking at my ones ...never so here we go

One module removed ..located (Left rear of the engine compartment ..you will need to take the fan unit off ..two 10mm bolts ....10seconds work )
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178526845.jpg

Clean the heat sink with some fine wet and dry paper..the will help the heat transfer work...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178526971.jpg

Clean the backs of each ignition module ..as was on the left ..cleaned on the right ...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178527075.jpg

After the heat sink and the backs of the modules have been cleaned to remove all the old tarnish etc. it will now need degreasing with brake cleaner etc. Then smear "heat sink compound" on to the two backs.. (Used in the PC world for the CPUs and heat sings so easily purchased at Tandy's in the US or Maplins in the UK) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178527266.jpg

And then reassemble ...I wouldn't recommend greasing the threads ( with STD grease ) as these are used for the heat transfer as well...metal to metal need here

Now the car is working its time to get the "Hammer out " or "BOSCH 9288 Tester" is the correct Porsche term ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178529545.jpg

Just for interest this is the code I have loaded ....I was told its the latest available ....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178529609.jpg

The first important test is the "adaption" .. sensors etc calibrated to the running engine(when hot)...not the same as unplugging the battery ..... ...several months ago (11) after I had changing the O2 sensor the engine hunted all the time on tick over, the only way I found to solve this was the "adaption" ..nothing else would fix it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178529889.jpg

The second test is to see if the Knock sensors are working ...very important!!

On a couple of full throttle blasts up the road using RON 95 fuel...varied from 4 to 23 knocks per 10000 fires...this confirms the two sensors are working, and its now better than it used to be before the rebuild..was 73

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178530116.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178530139.jpg

For intrest here are the "hammer" readings when the engine was "COLD" and "HOT"

COLD readings .... as quick as you can set the "Hammer" up after a cold engine start:

RPM=840
Voltage=13.4V
Cylinder head temperature=86C/188F
IATS=20C/68F
Ignition timing=0.7Deg Crankshaft angle
O2 Voltage= 0.02-0.66V
Load signal=2.80ms
IACV=59%
Airflow sensor=0.25

HOT readings .... after 30mins fast driving(for the knock reads) on the road with the "Hammer" running all the time:

RPM=840
Voltage=13.4V
Cylinder head temperature=124C/255F
IATS=25C/77F
Ignition timing=0.7Deg Crankshaft angle
O2 Voltage= 0.02-0.68V
Load signal=2.40ms
IACV=55%
Airflow sensor=0.22

And the test for the Evaporator in the AirCon(AC) after its rebuild: very quickly after the AirCon was turned on dropped to 5Deg after its install switch on..that works :D
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1178530649.jpg

Fingers crossed now for the car, and to rack up the miles before hand, as its on scheduled to be driven to Le Mans for the 24Hr race .....June 16-17th 2007...no its not in the race... :eek:

I will be on Porsche curves with PCGB

http://www.lemans.org/24heuresdumans/live/pages/accueil_gb.html

Ian,

Your knock numbers are interesting. After my rebuild I found that I was getting between 5 -15 knocks when I checked.

After asking around everyone said the knock numbers should be 0.

My engine still feels 'not quite right' to me. a little boggy at lower rpms, and almost like it is crossfiring.

I was going to change the plug wires and have the injectors flow balanced to see if it solved the problem or not.

(Now however I am embarking on a project to supercharge my motor, so I have to drop it out anyways and take it apart again. So I havent looked into diagnosing my problems any further)

Kirk