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So I have been researching rod bolt stretch gauges for my upcoming rebuild, and know I should get the ARP gauge, but cant justify the cost for only one rebuild.
Anyone have one they want to let me rent or borrow? ![]() Does anyone have any experience with the less expensive alternatives (summit, Lunati, etc)?? Thanks for any info you can provide!
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John A. 1979 Porsche 930: 3.4L, SC cams, Twin plug, Leask WUR, Custom SSI turbo exhaust, Tial WG, K27HFS, and we can't forget the Zork (short lived depending on my homeowners assoc.) 05 Boxster S: For the Track. 06 Dodge Ram 2500 Power Wagon: Tow Vehicle |
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It's a pain because a RBSG is a simple c-frame with a movable point and a dial indicator with higher gaging force to hold it on the bolt while you are making the measurements.
That said, I'm going to purchase the ARP. For me it's about time, time spent fabricating gages vs. time assembling.
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This might be worth checking into...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=428753
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Tony Proasi 1969S 1957 VW Pickup |
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rod bolt stretch guage, which one
does anyone know the quality difference btwn the arp stretch guage vs. the samba one?
Also, what grade is the "Samba" line of measuring products? el cheapo, middle of the road, hi-end...? Where can one buy their stuff if so inclined? Thanks! Bob
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I live for 911 tweaks... |
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hey guys, where is the subscribe button for the threads??
thx
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Well the ad looks like he is selling centech which is a decent company many of the big roaming tool companys sell it (snap-on. Matco etc.)
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Tony Proasi 1969S 1957 VW Pickup |
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there is something about the "LowBugget" name that worries me. anyone tried these or any of the other cost effective alternatives? Anyone interested in Buying the ARP off me if I buy one and only use it once?
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John A. 1979 Porsche 930: 3.4L, SC cams, Twin plug, Leask WUR, Custom SSI turbo exhaust, Tial WG, K27HFS, and we can't forget the Zork (short lived depending on my homeowners assoc.) 05 Boxster S: For the Track. 06 Dodge Ram 2500 Power Wagon: Tow Vehicle |
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I think the lowbugget comes not from a quality standpoint the guy was taking inexpensive VW parts and winning drag races with them I think if you only build one or two engines in your life it might be a inexpensive option, one of many
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Tony Proasi 1969S 1957 VW Pickup |
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I use the ARP one, it works well, a few other folks have used my gauge as well and have been happy with it.
Cheers
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I've been happy with my Summit Racing stretch gauge. The dial indicator reads to the thousandth of an inch, but the scale allows you to read to half a thousandth. If I needed more accuracy/resolution, I could purchase a more expensive dial indicator and use that, as the fixture is not specific to the indicator.
What benefit would there be to me, using this maybe once a year, to purchase something more expensive? Walt Fricke |
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UFLYICU
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I just used a micrometer. Worked like a charm.
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Walt, I don't think there is much to chose between the fixtures. You can always change the dial indicator if you wanted a different indicator. I picked up the ARP one only because it was a great deal, and it comes in a nice case so it is not damadged when I send it to other pelicans to use. (it is well travelled
)If you want I can send it to you and you can do some back to back comparisons with your gauge and see if there is a difference......... I suspect there will not be. Cheers
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Irrationally exuberant
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I use a micrometer and record the prestretch length - important if you want to reuse the rod bolts. A rod bolt gage would be nice though and much quicker.
-Chris
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Quote:
at top of page is a box "thread tools"
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Yes, but you have to be logged in to see it as an option.
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thanks guys I figured it out with your help! Also, you cant subscribe to a post that you reply to. You have to come back into the system & yes need to be logged in.
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Chris
Speed was one reason I quit trying to use a mike. Since I have suitable mike calibrators, I can reset my stretch gauge accurately when measuring the bolts after use to see if they can be reused. Or at least that is my theory. Plus my mikes are vernier. If I used them all the time I'd be quick and accurate reading them, but I don't so I am not. And I can't justify digital mikes. It also seemed to me that using the stretch gauge, which takes advantage of the depressions on the ends of the bolts for centering things, ought somehow be a slightly better mousetrap. Anyway, cost wasn't an issue when deciding to purchase the Summit part. And I figure anyone using the stretch method has got to figure that he'll be doing this at least a couple of more times on down the way. Stuff happens. These were Carillo rods and whatever bolts come with them (luckily not my engine) ![]() Walt |
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Walt,
Somebody was sure careless leaving a sharpie in that engine case. Well, I just bought the Summit Racing version for $62. It consists of a 6" piece of steel rod with two clamps. One holds an allen screw that has had the end turned down to a sharp point so it will fit in the dimple in the bolt. It's held in place by a lock nut. The other end is open, and accepts an AGD- size dial indicator (Not the European 8mm style that makes up my collection). This indicator has 0.001" divisions with a counter up to 1" total travel. I didn't measure the face yet, but I'm guessing it's AGD group 2. Nor did I measure the gaging force, but it was VERY easy to move it by hand, I don't think there's any extra spring in it. Assuming it's "Stock" such a gage is commonly available for under $10. I'll post some photos and experience with this unit when I receive the rods, which should be soon.
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Call Kevin at Kanna Motorsports. Just had a race engine built there and he has a couple of them. I asked why he had 2 of them and said that he has loaned one out before and likes to always have one avaliable....now thats what I call be preppared.
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Mine is on its way tomorrow to the original thread starter. It is well travelled amongst the posters on this forum. If you want to borrow it, let me know, you can have it when Ang M018 is done with it.
Cheers
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