Major oil leaking after fresh rebuild! Help!

STROSEK · 08-12-2007, 03:59 PM

Hi everyone... Hope your all having a better day then I am. I just finished installing and running my motor after a full rebuild and I have tons of oil leaking (approx 1 liter after running 15 mins.) from the 4-6 side of the engine. The oil looks like it's coming from the cylinder bases but it's hard to tell, it's not just seeping it's pouring out. I have a 3.8 C2 motor, I o-ringed the case and sealed according to the most up to date sealing procedures on this site (threebond, etc). The left side of the motor 1-3 is totally dry! I installed a 993 engine mounted oil filter console if that makes a difference. I'm just hoping someone might be able to save me from pulling the engine and know what this could be, I'm sure it's something stupid but I'm at a loss.

I'll name my first born to the person who has my solution.

Thanks!!

OldTee · 08-12-2007, 04:29 PM

Relax, but steel yourself to the fact you have to do something.

First, get a Tracerline UV leak detection finder kit. Pour some of the magic fluid into the oil, run the engine and examine it under a UV light (in the kit) the area of the leak will glow a nice putrid color of yellow but the exact leak will be a bright green. Now, pull the engine and fix what you find. In a year you will never remember you suffered.

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

It sounds like a pressure fed leak. Cylinders don't leak like that. I would guess it is a case through bolt or the oil is leaking from something like the oil pressure switch on the top of the engine.
If I understand you correctly you have a 3.6 converted to 3.8. Some of the early 964 engine cases were machined incorrectly and if you have one of these cases you have to use two orings under each washer at the end of the through bolts.

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

You might also check the engine oil filter housing. Did you oil the rubber seal rings when you installed it?
The cam-tower to cam-chain box gasket (the little "triangular" shaped gasket) is another common area. However since you said it's leaking on the cylinders these are longshots because they're on either end. Can you peek past the alternator fan and look at the top thru-bolts as henry recommended. That is a lot of oil and as he said, probably is a pressure-fed leak.

STROSEK · 08-12-2007, 06:34 PM

Hi, I just removed the engine shroud and the oil is coming from the through bolts on the nut side (passenger side). They are all leaking!!! !@#$ I am soooooooo angry it's unreal. I have given this motor so much time and energy and now this!! I even used the better green seals and put Dow Corning on all of them. I have no way to get at the through bolts without rebuilding the whole motor... Is that correct? If someone could assist me it would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!

STROSEK · 08-12-2007, 06:54 PM

Henry, sounds like you know exactly what I'm dealing with, I do have an early 964 motor. Would it be possible to put some kind of sealant on the leaking bolt ends? I know this is patch up shoemaker fix but if I could drive the car for even a few months and rebuild again this winter I would feel a whole lot better, if so what would you recommend?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

Unfortunately I have no experience with bandaid repairs of this nature but I guess if I were to try a sealant Threebond 1211 would be my choice. I think the effort is futile but if you want to try good luck.
There is a two piece 3M product that might give you a better chance but I will have to be at the shop to give you the product name.

STROSEK · 08-12-2007, 07:57 PM

Hi Henry, what would be the easiest way to fix this? Do I have to split the case and start everything over? Will putting 2 green seals be a 100% fix for this problem? Do I need 2 seals on both sides of the through bolts? Could I not change them one at a time? This way I would at least not be splitting the case. Please shed whatever tiny bit of positive light on this situation as possible. Do you think that the threebond sealant might work as a temporary fix? If there a lot of pressure at those joints? I know I'm asking a ton of questions so please forgive me. I just desperate and frustrated.

Thanks!

Jeff Alton · 08-12-2007, 08:18 PM

I believe it has been documented here that you could do them one at a time without splitting the case. I have not had this problem and have no first hand experience in that. You may find something regarding in the archives.

cheers

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

The proper way to remedy the improperly machined case is to use case washers that goes deeper into the case. Two o-rings works.
If you just want to glue and go try the ThreeBond 1211 or if you can find it
3M Scotch-Weld 3535 B/A. This product is the best I've found (far superior to any silicone) for flexible urethane adhesive. It is a two piece product that cures chemically.
One stud at a time will work fine.
Good luck

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

I'd tear it down far enough to reseal the nut-ends one at a time. This is a high-pressure area and I doubt that any external sealant will work...

I like to have an assistant actually hold the washers on the nut end to prevent them from turning. Reduces the chance of an o-ring tear.

alphie · 08-14-2007, 11:01 AM

Strosek, where are you located in Ontario?

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

Man, good luck on this. It does sound like you can work this out one bolt at a time. A real pain, I know, but at least you know the problem, and can work out the fix. Hang in there.

STROSEK · 08-14-2007, 12:10 PM

Thanks Henry and everyone who contributed to this post.... My summer with the car is ruined so I'm just going to re-do it this winter slowly but surely. I'm running stand alone EFI and Ignition as well as a custom fuel system so for it to start first turn of the key was a miracle. The worst of it all is that it sounded SOOOO GOOD!!!

I'm in Oakville BTW, someone had asked.

Henry, I'm going to call you to order everything I need to correct this problem properly once and for all, not that it's a big sale or anything but you deserve the business for all the assistance you give all of us.

Thanks again to everyone and hopefully once this is all said and done I'll be able to help others and not look for it myself.

STROSEK · 08-14-2007, 12:32 PM

One more thing, if someone knows the thread that talks about changing these through bolt o-rings without tearing down the whole motor please give me the link, I can't seem to find it. I have no idea if I have to remove the cam towers, heads, cylinders, pistons etc, etc.

Thanks!!