Cam tensioner repair

[88911coupe]

My pressure fed chain tensioner oil lines are leaking at the rubber section on my '88 3.2. I'm removing them for some top end work and wondered if anyone bothered to just cut off the crimps and use new rubber oil lines if the metal lines are in good shape. It took me about 30 seconds to cut one off and it looks like it would be a very cheap easy repair...or is this not worth the trouble?
Thanks,

[304065]

Buck,

A hydraulic shop could probably do it, but the RIGHT thing to do is to get the correct cohline rubber line and use their ferrules and crimp them on using a six-sided crimper that looks like this:



That said, for the labor cost you could get brand new hoses from our host. It's only if you need something special (as I do for a '66) where the custom solution makes more sense.

[88911coupe]

that's a pretty cool looking tool. I guess the smartest thing would be to just buy 'em from Pelican.

[hcoles]

it would be nice if someone made a more bulletproof version - I've heard of people doing it on their own. I think after buying all the parts/etc. it really wasn't worth it... just put new ones on every I guess 7-10 years or so.

[KTL]

You can probably find the correct hose size in SAE 30R3, and use the Oetiker clamps just like people do for the infamous Carrera intake manifold fuel line repair. Wouldn't be that hard and might save yourself a few bucks? You will have enough hose and clamps so you can continue to refresh the hoses for the next 20 years!

do a search on mcmaster.com for petroleum hose (p 228) and Gap-Free Pinch Hose and Tube Clamps (p 244) and you're all set. I'd recommend the clamp pliers too. I have them and they work perfectly- since they're specifically designed to crimp the clamps

[88911coupe]

Thanks Kevin, I think I'll do that. BTW, what is the consensus when reinstalling these are far as thread treatment whether new or refurbished? I assume teflon tape is a "no-no", but are there any other options to reduce the chance of leaks?

[hcoles]

good idea re Oetiker - I found a place where you don't have to buy the 100 piece min. for Oetiker.
http://chadstoolbox.com/

[KTL]

Buck,

Where would you propose thread treatment? Each threaded fastener has a seal ring or a ferrule/cutting ring that creates a compression fitting. Threads don't play into sealing these connections.

The key to avoid leakage on the banjo bolts is simple- tighten them snug and that's it. No reason to smash the seal ring into oblivion.

The key to avoid leakage on the cap nut ends is DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. It's very easy to overtighten these. As soon as you feel significant resistance when tightening the cap nut, that's enough. If it leaks give it another 1/8 turn. No amount of thread sealant is going to stop leakage because the threads don't seal anything. The leakage will come from the either the compression interface of ferrule and male fitting, or from the interface between the ferrule and smooth tubing.

[88911coupe]

Good point, I have not taken mine apart yet and had not really thought about what was making the seal.
Thanks,