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Exhaust studs on 3.0 & 3.2L heads
I am in the begining stages of doing some head rebuilding and can't find info on what is the "upgraded" answer for replacing broken and or rusty/tired looking studs on the exhaust ports of heads?
Are the builders or racers using some stronger material that: a) wont break and possible b) wont rust making it look like it will break any second. Basically I am concerned that after all of the head work is done, I would highly doubt people are leaving the studs in if not broke &/or rusty cruddy looking from the 100's or 1,000's of heat cycles they have seen. Maybe it is best to keep using the oe studs as they are cheap? and easy to deal with? To me a broken stud is a broken stud and a pita! (pain in the a^^) no matter when or how you have to deal with it. However, if some are using some space age metal studs AND if they ever break, it may be impossible to remove pc from head due to it being such a hard metal? A lot of guesses here guys on my part i.e. the question marks after my ramblings. Please inform me what is best and any links as I am not finding answers to these thoughts~questions. Thanks as always guys! Bob
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I must of overlooked the pelican offering on these studs...
p/n pel-csp-exs for $108.00 for a set of 12 w/ washers & nuts. They look nice but I don't know if their are any +/- to using these. Has anyone used these pelican hi-tech exhaust studs? Any +/- comments on the pelican part or other suggestions on what to consider? Bob
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I was going to use those on my 3.2 but if I remember correctly they are not long enough if you need to use the thick-flanged (later) exhaust - as is the case with 3.2 HEs. This was my case, so I went with new stockers. If I get another 20 years out of those, I'll be happy.
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good point Troy.
As for the 3.0 heads, that engine will run the ssi headers. I don't recall if they are thick or thin flange ssi's though. I'll measure their thkns, the depth of the head holes for the studs and see what that leaves me for washer & nut to attach the ssi's. As for the 3.2 heads, they may also be used with the ssi's or some other exhaust tbd. Maybe I am chasing another "overkill" and can do fine with the stockers... hummmmmmmmm Bob
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abit off center
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You could get some 8mm threaded rod and make your own, any length.
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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Irrationally exuberant
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If you have your heads done by Bob (at Atlantic) he will replace the bad studs with high quality ones.
-Chris
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I just asked this question on another thread...so the consensus is to remove the old ones if rusty? Mine aren't broken and I was thinking I may be creating a problem by trying to remove them, in the event one of them breaks off then I've really got trouble.
I have the stud remover but if it makes more sense to leave well enough alone I'm fine with that!
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Buck '88 Coupe, '87 Cab, '88 535i sold, '19 GLC 300 DD Warren Hall, gone but not forgotten |
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thanks guys for the input here.
Chris, when you say high quality studs... do you know what he uses? Are they oe or a higher quality metal? Bob
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Irrationally exuberant
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The look like Porsche ones i.e. they are yellow - not the silver or black ones you get from a hardware store. He said they were hard to come by (he sent me some once).
There is no need for a "super" stud -Chris
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thanks Chris for the input. I will probably be sending them to Bob anyway for work. Nice to have it all at one place.
Bob
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