Wrist Pin Bushing

[Nitrometano]

Hello guys,

I have a question about the wrist pin bushing (rod small end bushing) that Pelican's sells. The part number is 901-103-131-01-M41 and his brand is Glyco.

I know that the aftermarket wrist pin bushings like the solid ones that the machine shops do, nees to be reamed or bored to the factory specs size. This ones, the Glyco that I mentioned, need to be reamed or bore to factory specs or is just an press in and all is done?

[HawgRyder]

I have never heard of a bushing , for any purpose, that once pressed into a hole does NOT need reaming.
If you think about it...the bushing is compressed into the hole on the outside...so the inside has to get smaller!
When working with the wrist pin bushings...watch for holes lining up for oiling.
Pressing in the bushing is easy...I have used presses and even a vice on one occasion.
However...make sure the bushing goes in straight...then ream to size...then de-burr the edges.
Good luck
Bob

[Nitrometano]

do you make your own reaming?

[Hebster52]

I thought I'd use an existing thread for this question as it do cover basically the same thing.

I got this kind of replacement bushings for my 2,0L T engine. (The one to the left)

Where is the "joint" supposed to be when installed into the rod?

[Mark Henry]

TDC and BDC would have the most load so I've always aimed for the seam to be to the side so it's mid stroke.
Most of the bushings I've done I had to drill the oil holes after installation...but I'm a bug guy.

[Hebster52]

Ok. That was how I was thinking too.

Do you pre-drill the oilholes or drill them after they have intalled the bushings in the rods?

[Nitrometano]

installation first, then drill it.