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The Begining
Starting my rebuild.
1988 Targa 98K miles oil consumption 1qt. per 2500 miles I have 2 broken head studs that I found, and only pulled one valve cover. I am starting this thread so that I will get all of the criticism of what I am doing wrong. I have a tendency to cut corners, because I am cheap. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205076318.jpg The drop. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205076349.jpg The tool. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205076375.jpg My help. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205076396.jpg Myself. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205076421.jpg |
WOW! 70 views and not one smart alek comment about me being cheap.
Did I post this in the wrong place. |
What corners are you cutting?
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Quote:
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That does not seem to be a lot of miles, Thinking maybe go with just a top and cams or no upgrades at all? How was the pressure?
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Graig I never checked compression. I am thinking about doing a cold leak down, I really do not think it will give me a definitive answer about rings.
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What about oil pressure?
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Oil pressure was fine 1 bar per 1k RPM.
The car has been sitting for the better part of 3 years. I have only driven it 700 miles. I think this had something to do with the head studs breaking. |
good luck on the rebuild, I'm sure you will be able to find plenty of ways to be cheap without cutting corners. This board is full of practical and affordable ways to get the job done right :)
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Started the disassembly
I start yesterday and here are a few pics.
How do you tell if the G-50 update has been done? I cut this wire. What is this? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205507415.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205507471.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205507492.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205507538.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205507569.jpg |
known 3.2 fix its........
rod bolts valve guides valves springs crap fuel line change to aircraft fuel line updatum clutchem updatum G-50 since yers is a 88 may already have parts from p.o. 8th journal seal theres a few for starters. the only cheap in the equation is yer labor. the wire if im correct is cylinder head temp sensor |
Looks like you cut the wire to the cylinder head temp sensor, about $75.
I DO like your molded wooden engine cradle. Clever! Glenn |
Looks like the update has not been done on the clutch.
The shaft came out easy, I did spray it with PB blaster. Head sensor will probably be replaced, or I could just solder the wire back together. The parts list is getting big! |
More Progress
All of the exhaust bolts were rusted.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206049315.jpg This is the easiest way to get them off, cutting torch. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206049328.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206049427.jpg Broke two bolts on the shroud. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206049542.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206049591.jpg Alternator was the hardest thing to remove so far. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206049633.jpg This are going pretty well so far, but I am just at the start. |
My first Porsche engine o/h was a 87 last year. Came out OK. Have lots of plastic bags (of all sizes) available and label everything. Take lots of pictures. Don't mix up cylinder stuff. Keep it separate. Replace the head temp lead. They are impossible to replace one the engine is installed without a lot of work. Don't skimp on parts. Have alternator overhauled while it is out. Starter too. Take your time. Have fun.
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OldTee I plan on doing the alternator, but I may skip the starter. I can always push start it.
I finally got it on an engine stand. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206217575.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206217586.jpg Is there a trick to getting to the nuts on the heat exchangers? I know the barrel nuts use a long hex head. |
The nuts requiure various combinations of 12 or 13 mm flex sockets (depends on whether they are original or replaced) especially helped by a flex extension or a 6" wobble extension. There is a special tool for the barrel nuts but pick up a set of Harbor Freights inexpensive "ball end" Allen wrenchs and the (I think) 8 mm fits and allows you to get in to the sometimes off angle barrel (off angle in relation to the access hole in the HE. Some folks bend a 12 or 13 long box wrench for accessing the nuts as well
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Thanks Richard.
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I'm cheap too. Some guys pull out all the stops and do everything on their 911 build in the most optimal fashion possible. That's the right way to do it, but I usually can't afford either the time or the money, maybe both. If everything is absolutely perfect it should last longer, but I like a bit of adventure too. :-)
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206391225.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206391239.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206391287.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206391300.jpg I found what looks like a piece of coat hanger with a rubbery substance stuck behind the oil cooler. All went well today except for the rocker bushings. They were very rusty, and the small hex head stripped. I ended up drilling the large hex head side until it released. |
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