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Hopefully Robert will get your ticket. I've been sending a lot of work to him this year and really really like him. Cary, the guy who handles customer service, is really good people too. Been dealing with him for a few years now. I wish I could send all my work to them! But they're not set up for all the mag-case stuff.
Let me know if you need any help w/the build. |
classic case of the while i'm in there diease:) I cast my vote for new rings and hone the jugs. To bad about the woodruff key, everything looks fine on the inside, let me clarify that, from the photos everything looks fine. I was going to suggest you put retaining tubes on the studs to keep the cylinders from moving when turning the crank but it looks like you got that. I rebuilt my 70t awhile back and the help I got here was priceless.
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I talked to Robert today, everything is ready. I hope to pick it up on wed.
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I picked everything up this morning.
All valve guides & seals replaced, reground valves. One intake valve replaced. Removed 9 exhaust studs and put in inserts. P's & C's measured and ok. Lightly polished crank. Measured rods and they were ok. Well, it was a good day with no bad news. I will try to get some pics. in the next couple of days. |
I picked everything up this morning.
All valve guides & seals replaced, reground valves. One intake valve replaced. Removed 9 exhaust studs and put in inserts. P's & C's measured and ok. Lightly polished crank. Measured rods and they were ok. Well, it was a good day with no bad news. I will try to get some pics. in the next couple of days. |
Heads are done
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Polishing a crank involves abrasive compound. It behooves one to insure that none of this compound or residue ends up in the oil passages of the crank. Machine shops often do not clean out these passages.....I have spent hours squirting gallons of fresh solvent thru a crank and it's frightening what comes out. I'm sure my rod & main bearings love me for it.:D I tore apart a low mile engine that someone didn't take this step. 2 rod bearings were on the edge of spinning and one had a piece of crap "prairie dogging" out into a rod bearing causing a deep groove around the circumference of the bearing. |
Thanks JP, I plan on doing a lot of cleaning.
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Update
Cams were sent to camgrinder on wed. I am going with 964 grinds. I did not send the rockers, he suggested a using a local machine shop to do those.
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camgrinder called today, my cams are ready and will be shipped out tomorrow morning.
That was a lot faster than I thought. |
How much $ do you think you have into this so far? Just curious.
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I'd just like to make a comparison: I paid apx. $2500 in Norway, for having my heads reground, and cleaned my cam housings... -Im suffering over here..!
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Aurel |
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I have just had my six heads cleaned (water blasted), valves and seats reground and lapped, 12 guides installed and head cylinder mating face machined). This cost me $A975. (Perth Head Exchange) Perhaps you guys should move to Perth! |
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The heads were cleaned, 12 guides installed, 9 exhaust studs removed and inserts put in, replaced one valve and lapped valves. That was $850. |
I am getting motivated again. ( I have some money to spend)
Here is the plan, tell me what I am missing. boring Alusil 3.2 to 3.4 with 9.5:1 JE pistons 964 cams SW chip cat bypass I plan on replacing just the lower head studs with steel. Rod bolts will probably be aftermarket. (if I screw up I can reuse them):D |
Looks like you are at the same stage I'm at.... Good Luck!
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I ve used T Hoff in Raleigh for over 25 engines isn the past few years and the service is always excellent and reasonable..keeps me coming back
You were lucky, usually broken studs results in flycut heads and it throws a kink in the price quote. Bruce |
Please consider upgrading the rod bolts, they are a known weak point.
Going to a 3.4 is a solid plan. I would look at freeing up the exaust side so those cams can achieve there potential. At least a cat bypass and modify the muffler to a twin outlet. Good job. |
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