Jaybird's official 2.7 rebuild thread - Page 8

gsmith660 · 08:13 AM

The green on the 914 might be the DF wire in a 911I just looked at the other thread and it looks like the green wire goes to the idiot light. which is required to make the alt. charge. Good luck

jaybird840 · 08-24-2009, 05:52 AM

Well guys,

I'm long overdue for an update. I figured out the wiring issue (I hope, anyway) and have continued with bolting on the accessories on the engine. Does the air deflector on the back of the alternator rest directly on the back of the housing as pictured? The diverter material is pretty soft, and it doesn't seem like a great way to keep the alternator and fan secure in the housing. If there is something wrong with this picture, please advise....

I also decided to jump in headlong with the manifold porting project. I took the phenolic resin spacers, and used a sharpie to trace the inside diameter of the intake port as pictured.

I used the rotary files I borrowed from Jamie to begin to remove the material. As I got close, I used a 60 grit flapper wheel in a drill to smooth and blend them. Here are a few pics of the finished product.

As I was about halfway through with the project, a pair of PMO manifolds came up on eBay. Following Steve Weiner's advice, I purchased them. After I get the build finished, maybe I can do a couple of dyno runs with each set of manifolds to see what issues arise, and how effective the porting was (good or bad). Also, after a year of searching, I finally found a set of rain hats at a price I could afford. They arrived in better condition than they were described. My "mockup" pics are becoming closer and closer to "installation" pics. I have set aside the time to reassemble the carbs this afternoon. Hopefully they will be installed tonight. More later!

Dick Shift · Dick Shift's Garage

Yes alternator air deflector is on correctly. I Use as big as posible washers and i-lock nuts or locktite , as you just tighten the air deflector nuts just so much before they crush it.
Don't forget the ground strap from one of the alt. studs and the engine case.
Your careful step by step match porting is Looking good as well!

effvee · 08-24-2009, 03:30 PM

Hi, how about the match porting intake manifolf to head, any pic?

jaybird840 · 08-24-2009, 03:33 PM

Hey Effvee,

That's what is pictured. I am matching the intake port of the head to the intake runner of the manifold....

effvee · 06:32 PM

Hi, I thought that the 2.7 heads were CIS type? However forgive me, I just don't know Porsche. I'm just starting out with just a bar engine, not even a car. If I can get the engine right, a body will be the easy part. The 914/6 would be for me also, but only with a Audi 4 speed automatic. So again forgive my ignorance. If your heads are not CIS, what type are they? I say CIS due to the injector cutout in the head and I thought even the intakes had a cut out also.

Bob Goding · 08-29-2009, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by effvee

If I can get the engine right, a body will be the easy part. The 914/6 would be for me also, but only with a Audi 4 speed automatic.

Fv--That would be a nice setup for the street. My daily driver is a 2.6 Audi with the 4-speed Auto---it a nice thing. The earlier 3-speeds have a bad rep.
I looked at putting that auto box in my 911, but things are the wrong way around
and they have a hypoid R&P,which doesent flip like the 915 box.

Sorry to thread f***

effvee · 08-29-2009, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Goding

Fv--That would be a nice setup for the street. My daily driver is a 2.6 Audi with the 4-speed Auto---it a nice thing. The earlier 3-speeds have a bad rep.
I looked at putting that auto box in my 911, but things are the wrong way around
and they have a hypoid R&P,which doesent flip like the 915 box.

Sorry to thread f***

Hi you are right concerning the Audi 4 speed automatic, but that's why it would only work in the 914 (mid engine)

jaybird840 · 08-30-2009, 05:04 AM

FV,
Yes, they are stock CIS heads.

jpnovak · 08-31-2009, 01:36 PM

Jay, Its getting cooler with temps only in the 90s. Its almost time for a drive! Get that car running already.

You are doing great work. Let me know if you need anymore help.

Jamie

jaybird840 · 08-31-2009, 02:33 PM

In the words of the immortal Buddy Holly: "Every day, it's a'gettin closer, goin faster than a roller coaster....." Headers are on , Carbs and manifolds are on 97% complete (need air correction jets, and filter gaskets) Spark plugs are gapped and in (sure wish I would have chased the threads before I bolted the heads on

) Fan pulley is now gloss black. All I lack now is plug wires, 4 sheetmetal screws for the fan shroud to blockoff plates, and to sort out my engine mount and oiling system. Awfully darn close!!!

jpnovak · 08-31-2009, 07:31 PM

What size air correctors? I have some small ones you can drill out. Just stop by and pick them up.

btw, I am close to moving forward on a similar mid-engine car. Mine however will still be 4-cylinder power. Doh! I said too much already.

jaybird840 · 09-24-2009, 07:03 AM

OK,
Many updates since my last post. I got the remainder of the carb parts from Richard at PMO, and finished the carbs. Finally broke down and bought a set of the Magnecor 8.5mm KVS plug wires and installed them. I decided I needed a kick in the pants, so I put the engine stand on craigslist, knowing it would prompt me to get the engine back on the ground. Sure enough. Being a bit of a daredevil, I ended up removing the engine from the stand with a floor jack and a 2x6. Came down without incident. Finally, I had the opportunity this morning to attack the flywheel bolts without the interference of the engine stand. Bolts are in, loctited, and torqued to 110 lb/ft.

now for the clutch disc.....

and the pressure plate.... (Glad Kennedy Eng. is a fan of Mexico Blue!!!!)

jaybird840 · 07:58 AM

I got started on the oil tank this week, too. I bought a roundy-round car oil tank off ebay about a year ago. I pulled the top off, and of course, the motor of the previous car was obviously blown--swarf everywhere in the tank. I really don't have several hundred bones for a new tank, so I stripped this one to the bare bones and cleaned it. I pulled all the fittings, and cleaned all the threads. I accidentally deleted the before pictures, but here are the afters....

jaybird840 · 09-24-2009, 07:09 AM

OK Gang,

A couple of questions......

Do I need cooling tin pieces here? I obviously don't have them, and will have to locate them if needed.....

and here????

Last, a 914/4 uses bolts that go all the way through the engine case and tranny to hold the two together. The 2.7 block will require studs to be inserted in the block that will hold the tranny on. Can I just use threaded rod in the correct size cut to length, or do I need to have some special studs made?? I test fit the tranny behind the engine, and we're almost there!!!

Onward!

jaybird840 · 09-24-2009, 11:33 AM

It's amazing what an uninterrupted day of work can do. Look how close I am!!!

and another.....

I can almost smell the stench from the first startup!!!!

More as it progresses.....

cgarr · cgarr's Garage

Isn't that exhaust on backwards? but I like it!!

jpnovak · 09-24-2009, 03:29 PM

jay, I think I have some extra engine tin sections that you need. Oh yeah, you need those parts. otherwise, the air will get blow out and not actually cool the cylinders. Are you going to run a full engine tin surround? many track cars do not. If you ever think you will sit in traffic don't go without them.

Looking good! Let me know if you need a hand with the installation.

jaybird840 · 09-24-2009, 04:56 PM

Thanks Jamie!! I figured out that the oil cooler will take care of blocking off the driver's side cooling issue. If you have the piece for the passenger side, that would be awesome. I'm trying to get the garage cleaned out so I can get it up on jackstands to install the engine. I still need to do the bulkhead mount, and clean the firewall where I removed the sound pad--I have no idea how to get all the old adhesive off. Goof-Off and scotchbrite, I guess. Sure is nice to be making progress. Still shooting to be on the road by October...

jaybird840 · 10-06-2009, 02:17 PM

I've only had time in 10 minute increments lately. Both my wife and daughter came down with H1N1 flu last week, and were both in bed for five days. As you can guess...no project time last week. I got the oil cooler back from Pacific Oil Cooler, and I have mixed feelings about it. They charged $120 to "rebuild" my oil cooler. I had previously pressure tested it, and only wanted it cleaned. I had read here that people have had it done for like $40. It was clean when it came back, but they obviously cut it apart, and the quality of the welds makes me wonder what kind of job they did with the cooler. Anyway, here is a picture of it installed. the finish is unusual as it looks like some kind of coating that is a sand-beige color. After I installed it, it occurred to me that I should have painted it black. It kinda sticks out now. I still may mask it off, and spray the portion in the engine compartment black. I don't really care how it looks under the car (as you can tell from the picture of my starter!

). Here is a pic.....

I've also found the time to install all of the fiberglas engine "tin". I've read some gripes about it, but it works fine for me. I only had to monkey slightly with the fit. Oh yeah, Jamie, the rear piece of tin is recessed to seal against the back of cylinder #3 as pictured....

If I get really lucky, I may have a go at putting the bulkhead mount in. It bolts in first, then gets welded. My plan is to locate it and bolt it in, and then maybe holla at Jamie N. to see if he'll lend a hand with his welder. I have about three or four little welding projects I'd like to tackle at once. With that done, I'll be able to bolt it in. It shouldn't take too long to wire everything, but I'm still undecided on the location of the big round oil tank, and the associated plumbing. I may still make the end of October for the light-off!!! More later.