Jaybird's official 2.7 rebuild thread - Page 9

jpnovak · 10-07-2009, 04:09 AM

Bring it over. We will fire up the welder when you are ready. You can borrow the trailer if the car is not drivable.

frankc · 10-07-2009, 05:44 AM

Jay,
Looking good - you will definitely be on the road before I am. Question - I have an oil tank and brass front cooler that I picked up used from Pelican and was also thinking of sending them to Pacific Oil Cooler to have them cleaned, but do you know of a local shop that does this type of work? I would also like to get the gas tank cleaned out as long as it is out of the car.

Frank

jaybird840 · 10-07-2009, 06:19 AM

Unfortunately, no. I called every radiator shop in Austin and noone wanted to mess with it. You might check with Rich Johnson (a914guy@aol.com) as he offers the service for 914/6 conversions....

jaybird840 · 10-12-2009, 01:45 PM

Well, it's almost showtime. After 18 months of having the nose pointing out, I turned her around and put her a$$ in the air to have a look at the mount.

Now, I can't seem to work out how the mount will go in around the master cylinder. I guess I'll email Rich to find out....

J P Stein · 06:42 AM

That is the proportioning valve. Round file it and put in an adjustable prop. valve off to the left.
I can post a pic of my set-up later, if you like.

J P Stein · 10-13-2009, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpnovak

What size air correctors? I have some small ones you can drill out. Just stop by and pick them up.

btw, I am close to moving forward on a similar mid-engine car. Mine however will still be 4-cylinder power. Doh! I said too much already.

JP, ya had me smiling till that 4 cylinder bit.

jaybird840 · 10-13-2009, 07:35 AM

Thanks JP. Did you have to grind off the mounting plate for the proportioning valve, or does the mount fit around it after the valve has been appropriately stored in the round file?? Thanks!!

J P Stein · 07:57 AM

Mine is(was) a late model 914 with the porp. valve mounted off to the left. .....still in the way tho, IIRC.....that was 12 years back. I was able to adapt the original mount for the new jobbie. I'll get you a pic later this afternoon (I'm at wurk) and you can finger it out from there.
You'll probably have to run 2 new brake lines to the claipers.

jpnovak · 10-13-2009, 12:39 PM

JPIII - I don't want to hijack Jay's thread. (Wow there are a lot of J- names here). Don't be too disappointed - Its a healthy 4-cyl motor. Here is the description of the new project.

Time for a new project - A $2010 GRM Challenge Car

J P Stein · 10-13-2009, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpnovak

JPIII - I don't want to hijack Jay's thread. (Wow there are a lot of J- names here).

Yeah,well, I was here first.

Here's your pic, Jay. .....

jaybird840 · 10-26-2009, 09:22 AM

OK Guys,
The mount is IN!!

I'll be sending a PM to check your availability for the weld-in, Jamie!! Now, if I can only muster the patience to attack the little bit of rust in the longs before I stuff the new motor in.... Here ya go! Just a touch of brake plumbing, and a grand total of six inches of good weld, and the motor is ready to go in!!

jaybird840 · 11-01-2009, 05:08 PM

Where in the world would I be without Jamie Novak!

Jamie graciously loaded up his welding stuff and came by the house yesterday. After a few minor alterations, the mount was in, prepped, and ready to be welded.

So, Get ready....

Get set.....

Go!!!!!!!!

Now, the mount is in! Just a bit of cleanup, repaint, re-route the brake line, and the motor is going in! Thanks, Jamie!

--Jaybird

jaybird840 · 11-02-2009, 11:41 AM

Here's a sure-fire way to deal with removing the firewall adhesive/tar paper--wire wheel the beotch down to the metal!!!

more to follow...

DIEGO nasti · 11-17-2009, 06:29 AM

jaibird840 very nice job, i wonder why you did not used the B&B headers?

jaybird840 · 11-18-2009, 04:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIEGO nasti

jaibird840 very nice job, i wonder why you did not used the B&B headers?

Diego,

The B&B headers would not fit for my application. Several people also believed that the 1 5/8" tubes were too large. Thanks!

jaybird840 · 11-18-2009, 11:31 AM

After waiting a week for a metric brake line tee to come in the mail, the day arrived. I installed the tee and checked the brakes--no leaks (still need to be bled). Once I hit that point, there was no sense in waiting to stuff the engine in. One man, a floor jack, two hours, and a bunch of determination..... IT'S IN!!!

Now it finally looks right again when it's off jackstands for the first time in eighteen months.... Just a few items left to sort out, and then fire it up!

Almost home....

jaybird840 · 10-07-2010, 03:23 PM

Well, it's been almost a year since my last post. Hard to believe.... Short project funds, and trying to sort the oiling system have consumed 11 months. With that said, everything is in the car and hooked up (except shift rod and throttle cable). I'm showing good oil pressure by the idiot light and VDO gauge while cranking, so that's a relief. However, I cannot seem to get the car to fire. Given that I've gotten a few loud backfires through the velocity stacks, I think my timing is off. I'm concerned now that my distributor may not have been installed correctly. I'm getting fuel (pump jets, anyway) and spark from the coil per MSD's instructions. So anyway, I now think I need to go in and verify that I have the dizzy indexed correctly. So, In order to locate TDC for Cylinder #1, it should be the point where both the intake and exhaust rockers have slack in them, right. Is there any other point in the cycle where both valves would be completely closed? My next idea is to verify that #1 is at TDC via the previous method, and then re-index my dizzy. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm ready to hear Weber music!!!!!!!

4sd911 · 10-07-2010, 05:46 PM

Do you have access to your timing mark? I assume so, set it to TDC and both intake and exhaust rockers should be free, if not then your on #4. I'd static time it for start up. My 2.7 CIS times at 3 BTDC without vacuum. With points watch / listen for the point to spark, with pertronix use a test light on the dist wire to - coil.

jaybird840 · 10-08-2010, 09:19 AM

OK, I corrected the timing issue by re-indexing the distributor. I have the timing set at TDC for now... the car will now somewhat fire, and I can manage a stumbling run-on at about 800-1000 rpm if I pump the linkage like a madman to activate the pump jets. It will run in this fashion as long as I'm feeding it raw fuel. As soon as I stop pumping the jets, it dies. So, what's next in the process?

jaybird840 · 10-08-2010, 09:51 AM

It appears that there is some disparity in the amount of fuel being sent by the carbs. I pulled the #3 plug and it looked new. I pulled #5, and here's a pic. It doesn't smell like raw fuel, but doesn't look so good. there is also some raw fuel spilling from the exhaust when I crank it....

what next???