82 911SC Engine mount problem

[relayswitcher]

I'm used to rebuilding 2.7L engines the correct way... so when I went to put my "spider" engine mount on this 3.0 engine I noticed that there's a heater pipe running across the back connecting the heat exchangers to each other. As you see in this photo the lower part of the mount gets hung up at the 3 bolt triangle joint. This will not let the mount lay flat and tight to the engine block like the other side. Is this pipe bent or is it normal procedure to remove that pipe to flush up the mount because it's designed this way?
I had a rattle noise at back right side sounded like something in the chain box when I heard it with stethoscope so I place the 930 pressure fed kit on the engine. Car sounded the same when done and getting worse. Bottom end is smooth so I took to my friends repair shop.... he used to me in Porsche racing years ago and he's hearing the noise at cylinder # 6 where as I was hearing no noise there, but hearing it at the chain box at #4 and that cylinder sounded "tappity-tap" normal. Soooo.... I got this engine on the stand to rip it down to the heads on the 4-5-6 side. But I don't want to have to take the heat exchangers with manifolds off unless I really have to remove the heads. Something is rattling on the side and I will soon know... Wish me luck.

[1982911SCTarga]

My multi-arm engine yoke had interference there, too, when I went to mount it to my SC's 3.0 engine. I ground the yoke ring a bit on my bench grinder to correct it and allow the yoke to easily slip on as it should. There's no loss of strength in doing so.

Good luck with getting your engine sorted.

Brian

[relayswitcher]

Hey Brian, Grinding it down is exactly what I was thinking. As you see, it does have a notch in it from the mfr. but is not in the correct location. I guess now I have to decide to take the engine off the mount, which seems to be holding as is... grind and remount or see if I have to remove the pipe anyway. It's good, but not good, to know someone else can relate to this situation. Thanks for your reply. I will be posting some progress photos as to what I find as I disassemble. Thinking on it now, I have disassembled and rebuilt 5 911S 2.7L CIS engines with the appropriate, coarse thread inserts for studs, "toilet seat" pop off valve cut out in the air box, toss the heat reactors, and external cooler in front wheel recess...... but I have never taking an engine out to do a search and repair on one side. Still fun, though.
Thanks again for your reply, Relayswitcher


"Believe or don't" advice to all.... When removing your engine it's always better to remove it with the car even at both ends. I always lift to 32 inches to clear the engine at back valance once on ground and on a dolly. I remove it always with the transmission attached. Otherwise you can strip the large mount bolts. And you have more problems aliening the bolts to the holes which are perpendicular with the car bottom

[1982911SCTarga]

Be extremely careful with that three-legged engine stand when you rotate the engine, especially if that yoke isn't firmly attached all the way around it's 180 degrees. You don't want a shift of weight/mass to catch you out.

Brian

[relayswitcher]

Yes, I hear you on that and is why I have it sideways for less tension the non flush section. I've decided pretty much to remove from stand and take the yoke to get it notched in the correct location. I'm very careful when turning engine while on the stand. Thanks for your concern. Regards, Josh
ps... Getting cold where you live yet? Or just stormy from the hurricane....hope you are not in the path? My cousin lives on the beach in Jacksonville Bch. Florida.

[relayswitcher]

Brian, I decided to get a better engine stand. Though I've never had an engine tip over on me, I think safety is best. I got the 4 wheel stand and a 2nd "long arm" floor jack. I don't know if they have "Harbor Freight Tool" stores in you state, but this is a great place. They even took my 8 month old stand no questions asked and gave me credit towards the new 2000 LBS. capacity stand you see in the photo. The "long arm" floor jacks are normally $189. but I got it on sale for $119. It's makes a big difference having 2 jacks.... for engine ground moving and raising the car 32 inches off the ground.

As to the "spider" arm yoke. I did get it ground down but did not work because the cross pipe was just to close to the flywheel area. So.... I just removed the pipe. Wasn't too bad, but the last nut and bolt was a real b...tch to get off. You really have to use a 1/2 inch drive socket to get exhaust nuts and bolts to break loose, but you can't get anything on this last nut and bolt. I finally got a 13mm joint socket on it and broke it in half. It's a SNAP-ON tool and it broke....$28 bucks. Good thing it's lifetime guaranteed. You just have to catch one of their trucks.
Anyway, I will now continue to find the rattling noise now that the 930 oil feds wasn't the solve, but a good thing to do anyway. Next is ripping top end 4-5-6 side and maybe I'll finally know what the heck is doing this.
I will keep progress posting as I go. regards, JOSH :coo