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Engine / trans stud removal
I need to remove the studs at the front of the engine case, the ones that go to the trans. Should I just heat up the stud with a propane torch to break the bond? Will the threads need to be time certed after removal? Purpose of this is I need to have the case cleaned with a ultrasonic machine, the one locally is only 24" wide.
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06-08-2009, 09:32 AM
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abit off center
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mag or alum case?
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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06-08-2009, 10:09 AM
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Mag 2.7 case
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06-08-2009, 10:29 AM
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abit off center
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I would try it without heat, heat on a mag case tends to bring the threads out with the stud, if they come out clean you should be ok without inserts. Do you have a good puller like the snap-on with collets?
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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06-08-2009, 10:37 AM
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No, I don't have any pullers, I plan on locking 2 nuts on the stud and see if that will free them.
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06-08-2009, 11:03 AM
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abit off center
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That should work, they come out easier than head studs as there is not much heat in that area.
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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06-08-2009, 11:09 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Central Fla
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Removal
One thing you might try along the lines of the double nut trick is get a 17mm and a 15mm wrench size nut install the larger one 1st and tighten both and use a 1/2 impact gun with a 17mm socket and rattle them out, It works very well on stubborn cyl. studs, the shock of the impact gun tends to work better than brute force.
Mike Bruns JBRacing.com
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06-08-2009, 11:30 AM
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Good idea I'll try it. Thanks
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06-08-2009, 11:59 AM
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I got the 2 short ones out, on one the threads went with it the other only a very small bit of metal on the threads. The long one isn't moving yet, looks to be tough.
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06-08-2009, 01:21 PM
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Got it. I did the unthinkable, vise grips
 it didn't want to turn out so I turned it in and broke it loose then it turned out, threads still intact.
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06-08-2009, 02:35 PM
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I remember this all to well, try soaking the studs with PB Blaster for 1-day. Fill it up and allow it go down, it helped in my case. I had a 3.2 case so used heat on the inside along with pre-soaking with PB blaster and it was not too bad. Only 2 gave me a bear of a time. Enjoy! Oh, the Snap On tool does work pretty good but not in all cases. Good luck.
Alex
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Its easier asking dumb questions than fixing dumb mistakes 1974 Porsche 911 Coupe, RSR Project 1976 Porsche 911 Targa, Black 1986 Porsche 911 Carrera, Black 2006 Porsche Cayenne S, Black |
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06-08-2009, 03:46 PM
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Wer bremst verliert
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Toronto, Ontario
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I've become a fan of Locktite's "Freese and Lube" spray for freeing up studs. Heat the case, freeze the stud for a few cycles and I've stopped snapping off studs.
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2007 911 Turbo - Not a toy 1985 911 Cab - Wife's toy 1982 911 3.2 Indiash Rot Track Supercharged track toy 1978 911 3.0 Lichtbau toy "Gretchen" 1971 911 Targa S backroad toy |
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06-08-2009, 04:14 PM
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On this last stud I used Kroil on it, don't know if it penetrated the threads, but left it on for a hour before trying again. I used knock'er loose on the first two.
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06-08-2009, 05:00 PM
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hey one quick question, what is the correct part number for these studs.. for the life of me I cannot find it. Thanks
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06-09-2009, 04:47 AM
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I have the numbers from PET5 but the length doesn't match what from my engine.
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06-09-2009, 10:53 AM
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1969 and 1986 Porsche Targa and Coupe 1720cc and 3
