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Question Timing marks unclear

OK, this is a little weird. I've been searching the board for the past hour trying to find a picture or drawing that looks like my crank pulley and I can't. What are the marks I am seeing? Is #2 Z1? This is in my 914/6 w/ 77 2.7CIS and it's a little tough to see the labeling on the marks.


Old 06-17-2009, 07:51 PM
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I would assume the following (based on my 2.7)

3 = TDC (its exactly above the hole in the pulley)
2 = 5 ATDC
4 = either 30 or 35 BTDC, possibly you have both marks
1 = ??

Take a normal tape measure and measure the mm distance between the marks. If 2 to 3 is exactly 5mm, then you can measure and confirm how many mm/degree to 1 or 4. 1mm equals 1 degree. Also, if you take the pulley out and polish it, you will be able to see marks better.
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Old 06-17-2009, 10:09 PM
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Old 06-17-2009, 10:23 PM
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OK. That makes sense. So if #3 is TDC then how do I know if I'm looking at TDC on cylinder #1? I did the straw in the spark plug hole trick to make sure the piston is all the way up along with watching #1 intake open and close prior to the picture you see. Will that give me TDC or could it be TDC for cylinder #4?
Old 06-17-2009, 10:37 PM
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If you are good for #1, the rotor side will align with the little mark in the distributor housing. If you are on #4, the rotor will not align with the mark.
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Old 06-17-2009, 11:14 PM
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Thanks Jacob. The problem I have is I think my distributor may not be in the right orientation. So I need to find out how to determine TDC of the engine itself so that I can index the distributor properly. At this time I can't use the distributor as the reference.
Old 06-18-2009, 06:59 AM
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Pull the upper and lower valve covers on the left side, (cyls 1-2-3) and line up what you think to be TDC1 per the pulley, if the rockers on the intake and exhaust for Cyl 1 are movable (valves closed), you are at TDC1, if not, check Cyl 4... Once you determine you have TDC 1, realign your dizzy for TDC 1...
Old 06-18-2009, 07:05 AM
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OK, so if I watch the exhaust open and close (on #1) and then watch the intake open and close (on #1) then the Z1 mark will be TDC?
Old 06-18-2009, 07:25 AM
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Your crank has a dowel in it that should have a matching hole in the pulley. If you turn and the intake closes and exhaust is closed, TDC1
Old 06-18-2009, 07:31 AM
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On tdc z-1 set your distributor
If it doesnt start, swing the distributor 180 degrees from z-1 #4 to tdc
Youre either on time of off 180 degrees
Bruce
Old 06-18-2009, 01:15 PM
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At TDC the intake valve will be just starting to open on number 1 or number 4. The one that is not opening is the TDC you need for the firing stroke. So turn the engine until the pulley is at TDC and the intake valve on number 4 is just starting to open and you will be at TDC for number 1 and can install your distributor.

-Andy
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:18 PM
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#3 is TDC.

you only need to take off the intake.
turn the engine over, once you see the intake close, the next time TDC comes around, that is #1 TDC. put the dizzy in so when it is in, the rotor points to the line on the edge of the dizzy. you will have to offset the rotor since it will turn as the dizzy slides in.

i think the retard marks are for the california cars.
set the timing to 0 TDC, then check for full advance. it should, if at all, only be a few degrees from the 30/35 deg mark. you can either leave it as is, or reset so that it hits the 30 deg mark.
mine is actually set a few degrees retarded so it hits the 30 deg mark, otherwise i get spark knock.
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Old 06-19-2009, 08:51 AM
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I also am trying to figure out my (buddy's) timing marks, 71 911t 2.2

Pretty sure I was hearing ping so I've retarded the timing.
The pic is of the pulley, timing was closest to these two marks that are 5mm apart, there is no Z1 mark. I've moved (retarded) the "at idle" speed close to the left (of the two 5mm apart marks) mark. I don't see a mark around 30*.....



Anyone know a better link on pulley timing marks? (this is the best thread I've found )

I've done a rough sync and things are much better, crisper and the backfire is gone. Still popping through one carb barrel if I blip it a few times. But I'd like to figure out the timing before I rev it up.
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Last edited by Mark Henry; 07-29-2009 at 08:09 AM..
Old 07-29-2009, 07:52 AM
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The odd part about your picture is where the hole in the pully is in relation to the marks you are showing on the pulley. If you look at the pictures up above the hole in the pulley face is directly below the Z1 mark whereas on your picture it is well to the left of the mark you have the engine lined up on. All of these type of pulleys that I have seen have the holes in the face of the pulley line up with the Z1 mark.

Since I'm at work at the moment I can't check on this now but IIRC, the woodruff key that locates the pulley on the crankshaft also lines up with the Z1 mark on the pulley. I can check on this later if needed.
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Old 07-29-2009, 08:22 AM
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So in the pic it's sitting at 30*? far left is TDC and far right 35*?

Far left does have a line on the face, the others don't.

If so I'd say the advance isn't working right and that actually might have saved the engine, as it was way over advanced. Looks like it's only advancing a little over 5*.
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'72 Porsche 914, 1.7, wife's summer DD
'67 Bug, 2600cc T4,'67 Bus, 2.0 T1
Not putting miles on your car is like not having sex with your girlfriend, so she'll be more desirable to her next boyfriend.

Last edited by Mark Henry; 07-29-2009 at 09:05 AM..
Old 07-29-2009, 09:03 AM
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I think the dizzy is pooched, or needs work. The weight is flopping but both springs are on. There is a thin black plate between the weight assembly and the bottom and it looks broken in 3-4 places, I can push them around with a screwdriver tip.

Dizzy # 0 231 159 002 is that correct for this engine?...and I guess I'm looking for one.
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'74 Porsche 914, 3.0/6
'72 Porsche 914, 1.7, wife's summer DD
'67 Bug, 2600cc T4,'67 Bus, 2.0 T1
Not putting miles on your car is like not having sex with your girlfriend, so she'll be more desirable to her next boyfriend.

Last edited by Mark Henry; 07-29-2009 at 10:23 AM..
Old 07-29-2009, 10:20 AM
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Mark, 0 231 159 002 is a 2,0 911S distributor, they are pretty rare and about $500.

I have a core 2,7 distibutor, 0 231 159 003 , $75 + $25 shipping to you in Canada.

[/QUOTE]
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:28 AM
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Thanks, mine has a flat steel locking plate, I'd have to replace the stud to make that work.
I'm going to check what's local first.
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'67 Bug, 2600cc T4,'67 Bus, 2.0 T1
Not putting miles on your car is like not having sex with your girlfriend, so she'll be more desirable to her next boyfriend.
Old 07-29-2009, 12:37 PM
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The far left line is marked FE, its for setting the MFI pump, no other interest there.
Bruce
Old 07-29-2009, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Henry View Post
Thanks, mine has a flat steel locking plate, I'd have to replace the stud to make that work.
I'm going to check what's local first.
Sorry, I didn't realize you were not the original poster who had a 2,7. You have a 2,2 which uses a smaller bore distributor with a flat steel clamp.

What is the number on your distributor?

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Ex-'71 911 PCA C-Stock Club Racer #806 (Sold 5/15/13)
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Ex-'91 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (Sold 8/20/04)
Ex-'89 944 Turbo S (Sold 8/21/20)
Old 07-29-2009, 03:47 PM
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