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Actually, I think that alan and bullethole are giving you good advise. Change all the bottom studs while you are in there with steel and don,t even think about trying to remove them without heat. It does not take much to make the locktite let go and that is all that is holding them in there. FWIW I just got thru doing mine in my 83SC.... Good luck and take lots of pics of the engine before dis-assembly, you.ll be glad you did...........
George |
I would not pull an engine for ANY work without a leakdown test on all cylinders, or at least a compression test. It is very difficult to do once the engine is out.
Having said that... If the leakdown/compression test is within acceptable limits, you may think twice about buying another engine or dropping your engine right now. I would start looking for the replacement parts (studs) and all the related parts (gaskets, seals, sealant, crush washers, o-rings, rubber grommets, etc.) before I scheduled an engine drop. Remember that finding a bad clutch or breaking some exhaust studs can significantly increase the cost of this "minor" repair. Good Luck, Mark |
You can do a leakdown with the engine out - in fact it is easier. I did one with a 2.7 I just rebuilt, while the engine was on my workbench.
It is worth doing then - we picked up a damaged valve seat in one cylinder. If you did drop the engine - it would be worth doing a leakdown if you could access the equipment. You dont have to hold the engine from turning - you can lock the flywheel. If you have the cam box off, you can leave it locked in one position and do all cylinders real quick. Alan |
I should have been more clear; it is difficult to do a compression test with the engine out of the car because of the requirement to crank it over so many times.
The leakdown can be done on the bench but you should conduct the test at TDC for each cylinder in order to make sure both valves are closed against the seats. If a cylinder is suspect because of rings (leaking air into the crankcase) you can then lower the piston slowly and see if the leakdown pressure changes. Mark |
im not gonna open that link above.
Anyone brave enough to open? |
I think it is spam.
Alan |
That previous post has just turned up in another thread on Pelican too.
Pelican is being spammed. Alan |
im not sure what happened today but .......
My buddy bought an 04 turbo from the dealership and the dealer was going to give him 21k for his 01 silver cabriolet with 35k miles. Perfect car. So I said. Yep I said it. If thats what they give you I'll take it for that......... Now i really got a situation. Anyone want an 78sc taga, 77k miles with 2 broken head studs..... |
For what a targa is worth with broken studs, you should keep it and slowly rebuild the engine! .... I understand that is not practical for everyone, but if you can swing it....Congrats on the new car by the way. Always nice to have a toy that works!
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I just finished removing 12 lower Delivar head studs with a pipe wrench.
Took about 35 minutes. Only had 1 broken one to lead me to this point. Also only had to heat 1 stud. I never worked on cars until I bought this one 15 months ago. Leakproof. |
Alright.
Thats a ton of positive you can do it feedback. Does anyone have a list of the parts they bought for the job. I keep going into the engine wizard and ending up with all kinds of stuff. Maybe I have A D D and cant keep focused. Does anyone have a parts list that shows the must have's and also the " while you were in there's"? Thanks all!! |
You need a complete gasket kit (it generally seems cheaper - but if you can buy a top end kit, fine).
You need 24 new studs. Thats it. Until you look for more stuff. Like checking valves, timing chain adjusters (worn chains?) etc. How is your clutch plate - now that you have it in your hands, rather than in the engine. How is your thrust bearing - I think you have another term for them - the bearing in your clutch pressure plate. Are CIS intake rubbers OK - this is your only chance to replace them - now you have pulled all the CIS gear off. How old is your alternator voltage regulator - since it is soo hard to get to( but can be done without removing engine). How big is your budget? Piston rings? Alan |
Quote:
x1000... This would have to be the wisest post ever... |
i may be screwing this up by posting on the tech forum site and the rebuild site.
Sorry if its repetitive. Local porsche shop just did my compression test 130 for all but one 100-105 for the number 2. Any thoughts? |
Either broken ring, or poor valve seating. But the other 5 look very good - so definitely worth fixing.
If they did a leakdown test instead of compression, they should be able to identify the source- valve or ring. That may save you pulling a cylinder off. Alan assuming head gasket sealing OK. |
My preference is that by fixing the studds and torqueing it back up all will be well.
Is that possible. |
ONLY if the leak is caused by broken studs - ie at head gasket. You should be able to work this out from faulty cyl number and where studs broken - and gunk at base of same head.
If this doesn't match up, problem is internal - ring or valve. If same cylinder as with broken stud, you have to pull the head and cylinder anyway. So very little extra work and cost (with a small amount of luck). Alan You really should be replacing all studs - the undamaged ones as well. In which case you will need to remove all pistons/cylinders, as well as each head. If you did a leakdown you could identify if problem cylinder was head or piston. Then you can leave all other 5 p/c's alone, and possibly the 6th intact - ie leave pistons in cylinders - do not disturb. If is valve then you simply need to have those valves refaced (not expensive). If you were keen, you could clean up the other faces with a light lapping - but with those numbers, you could get away with just doing the bad cylinder. |
You have one cylinder that is 11.5% lower than the other five and the five are all the same? DRIVE IT!!!
You are probably better off than most of the folks on this list. You might have a excessive gap in one ring set, a valve that is not making a 100% contact seal, or a leaky spark plug hole. None of these is an urgent need for an overhaul in my opinion. Mark |
I think the leak is caused by the broken stud.
One of the broken studs belongs to the cylinder in question. I think i am going to get some cosmetic stuff done on the engine while I am in there. Any recomendations? Fan Shroud Valve Covers what else? |
Update, Its in the shop. Engines out and they sent some pics over yesterday.
Always open for suggestions about questions to ask. Anybody see anything I should be asking about? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250602073.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250602107.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250602142.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250602180.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250602255.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250602299.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250602327.jpg |
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