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chocolatelab's Avatar
 
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oil change now broken studs

I would consider myself medium level do it your selfer.

I brought my car into the shop here in san diego for 75k service and got the call from the shop.

Broken studs

Pics from the shop below.

Can I do it myself?





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Old 07-17-2009, 02:49 AM
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As long as you can get a stud remover on them (not broken flush to case; they don't appear to be), then yes. Get a nice set of steel, 993 or aftermarket studs.
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:33 AM
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Chris, I saw your other thread regarding this issue. I think your mechanic's pricing is pretty reasonable, depending on the quality and quantity of parts they are planning on replacing. The proper repair of head stud problems involves removing all the pistons and cylinders, and replacing all the (at least) lower studs. If one let go, you can assume that the others will not be far behind. The pricing for the repair will quickly go to $10k+ if they find that the cylinders need to be replaced while they're in there. The job is definitely not medium level DIY, but anyone can learn. If you are only wanting to do the work to save $2500 in labor, DO NOT attempt it. The time spent and level of attention required for a good product is worth more in the long run than a little savings. If on the otherhand you really WANT to learn how to do this, and are willing to research all the small details...I would say go for it.

How many broken studs did they find?
Old 07-17-2009, 07:57 AM
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How much is your time worth and when was the last time you couldnt get help from this fantastic web site. Buy a few tools if you dont have a garage rent a storage area and pull the engine and work in it. Go slow, read and learn what makes your engine go.
Some basic tools, a dial guage and fixture and a table and lots of oil dry.
Much more reward than paying someone $1xx.00 an hour by the book..
Bruce
Old 07-17-2009, 10:27 AM
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Just 2 broken studs

I bet they have been broken for awhile.

they are two right next too each other

one stud from each cylinder

I think i am going to do it myself.

I have just as much fun playing with the car as i do driving it.

I think i would really like to do it myself so i know whats going on down there in the future.
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:45 PM
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If you need any help or conversation feel free to contact me.
I mean I did suggest that you do it so the least I could do is be available for support.
Bruce
Old 07-17-2009, 03:07 PM
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Thank you Bruce.

What about this for an option?

I could drop my own engine and trade it into a rebuilder for a new rebuilt engine.

Are there pros and cons to that path?
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Old 07-18-2009, 06:18 AM
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Another option for you....

Find a 3.0 with reasonable miles and a good checkup (leakdown and compression) and buy it. As a first test of your skill and enthusiasm, drop your engine and install the replacement engine. Now your car is back on the road and you have a "project" you can attack at your leisure. If the engine swap was a piece of cake, buy Waynes rebuild book as well as Bruce Andersons book and read them...a couple times. If you still feel motivated, start to accumulate the tools to do the rebuild. Set up an area for the rebuild so that you have a comfortable work space for an extended period of time. You should not look at the challenge as just replacing the broken studs...you will want to go through the engine to totally freshen it up. Take your time and use a camera during the dis assembly process. Bag all items and mark each bag. Don't use excessive force if you can't get something apart...ask for help. You will enjoy the rebuild process if you go at your speed vs being rushed to hurry up and get the engine back in your car. In the process, if you find you need additional parts that were unanticipated, you will normally find better prices on those parts if it is not an emergency and you can "shop" the market. When you are done, you can swap your new engine back into your car, and resell the used engine for close to what you paid for it. On the outside chance that the engine you disassembled is not worth rebuilding...you can sell off the parts to offset the price you paid for the replacement engine. This way, you didn't miss a beat with your car and summer driving, it won't cost you an arm and a leg, you learned a lot about your engine, and you gained confidence at your pace.

My 2 cents...

Speedo
Old 07-18-2009, 06:38 AM
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Old 07-18-2009, 12:21 PM
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It is quite a lot of work to do this - complete tear down of top end, plus the 'while you are in there bits' - which is just good economics. (clutch etc). I have just done one for a mate - back on road last w/end - after about 2 months w/end work on and off.
If you are interested to learn and love to know more about how these cars tick, then this is your opportunity (buy Waynes book, Buy Waynes book, buy Waynes book), this web site will get you thru as long as you are patient and pay attention to detail - or you will do it all over again.
If you are not that way inclined, there are better options. For me, first time I pulled my engine down for same issue, I never regretted it. But it was 4 months work (down to crankshaft- while I was in there).
Regards
Alan
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:37 AM
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Well

First I cant say enough how great this website is. I have gotten so much help and many different points of view. Some engine offers ect. All very kind and well meaning.

After sorting it all out..my lack of time beats my enthusiasm

I found a porsche shop here in southern california that has a very reasonable charge for the head stud repair. The big plus is that the shop will let me stay at the shop and participate in different parts of the engine removal and stud replacement process.

I think this will help me understand what exactly is going on without the downside of being sidelined for 2 to 4 months.

Thanks all.

Will advise on the results. Cross your fingers.
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:58 AM
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That is a very kind offer by the shop. I recently did an engine for a friend - who 'helped' me.
In truth I would have been more comfrotable on my own. Checking his work, and attention to detail (dont want to miss something a sharp eye might spot), plus having someone else using my tools at the same time, was a significant distraction and not good for concentration.
Regards
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 07-23-2009, 03:04 PM
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What speedo said.

These home rebuild projects can drag out longer than you expect. I'm on month #10 and not driving the P-car. Not fun at all.
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Find a 3.0 with reasonable miles and a good checkup (leakdown and compression) and buy it. As a first test of your skill and enthusiasm, drop your engine and install the replacement engine. Now your car is back on the road and you have a "project" you can attack at your leisure. If the engine swap was a piece of cake, buy Waynes rebuild book as well as Bruce Andersons book and read them...a couple times. If you still feel motivated, start to accumulate the tools to do the rebuild. Set up an area for the rebuild so that you have a comfortable work space for an extended period of time. You should not look at the challenge as just replacing the broken studs...you will want to go through the engine to totally freshen it up.
Speedo's advice is actually pretty good if you want to do the project yourself.
Old 07-24-2009, 11:15 AM
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One other point.. while in there replace ALL the studs, not just the 2... Some will disagree, but if you go through the time/expense etc of the tear down, you might as well do them while open.
Old 07-24-2009, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullethole View Post
One other point.. while in there replace ALL the studs, not just the 2... Some will disagree, but if you go through the time/expense etc of the tear down, you might as well do them while open.
+1.
Whatever caused the first ones to go -many heat cycles- will have affected the others the same. I'm sure the w/shop would want to do them all, but if you end up DIY, do them all.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 07-24-2009, 12:01 PM
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Purchasing a used engine doesnt solve any problems. Another engine is another used engine with its own set of problems and you already own one of those.
Resolve the problem with the one you own
Bruce
Old 07-24-2009, 01:25 PM
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Just a thought.

If i had a compression test done on the engine and the test came back all within acceptable limits.

Do I need to be in a hurry to drop 2-3k on the engine today.

Why not continue to drive it until i have at least another reason to get in there.
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:46 PM
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You have two good reasons already - two broken studs. The engine was designed to run with 4 per cylinder. Yes, you have probably been running like that for a while, maybe.
But look at it this way - you now have at least 2 good reasons to pull the engine, and I bet a third by the time you pull it down - there will be something else in there that will need attention.
If you continue to run for extended period you risk more damage to heads. They are not really seating like they should now - think of them screwed down on 3 corners and flapping with every compression boom, on the 4 th corner. Just a Q of how long you want to wait.
Regards
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 07-24-2009, 09:18 PM
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It is not going to get any cheaper to fix in 6mths, or 5,000 miles. But more likely will get more expensive.
While you may be able to gently cruise for a few months, it is not going to make the situation any better than it is now.
If you dont have the $s right now, you could park it and save a few , or start tearing it down, while saving $s. But either way it needs doing in near future. The load will be transferred to the other studs now. Which are just as tired.
Regards
Alan

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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 07-25-2009, 11:30 AM
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