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I am interested how you split the trans from engine. I have always taken them out together.
How did you have enough room to slide the input shaft clear? I have always had to use special little spacers on the clutch release plate (x3) to allow it to come free of housing (dont quite understand this bit). Not sure how much trouble you are going to have insewrting engine again. Are you following a manual? You can do a leak down now, while on engine stand in shop. This will tell you any problems, and where. Thanks Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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The engine and transmission are held together by 4 bolts. After unbolting them, then lowering the engine(leaving the trans mounted so the whole assembly tilts down) you can simply slide the engine away from the transmission. Take care to support the transmission while doing this so it doesn't fall to the ground and bend the transmission mounts. Removing the rear bumper is also a good idea.
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Well
Picking it up today new studs, valve guides, lap valves, and new rings They also did some cosmetic stuff As it stands I am glad I took it to them. But I will tell you that next time i am doing it myself. Watching them through the whole process took alot of the fear out of it. If anyone needs help here in socal I would recommend them. PM me if interested their info. ![]() ![]()
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1978 911sc Targa Sold 2001 996 Cab Sold 2006 Cayenne S Silver Wifes Car for sale 2011 Jeep Wrangler Silver for sale 2010 Toyota Prius Black for sale 2016 BMW 328D wagon |
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 77
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Do you have hydraulic chain tensioners? Or have you replaced or updated to the most recent mechanical, I believe '81-83? Hate to be asking this after it's all back together.
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