Easy head stud removal

[CMDR Perry]

Note to present and future 911SC owners; I changed out all 12 lower head studs today, I had 2 broken Dilivar studs, one each on Cylinders #1 and #3. I soaked the base of lower studs 1 day in advance with PB Blaster. Relying on tips in Wayne's engine rebuild book I used a propane torch and 10 inch Sears pipe wrench for Stud removal. Heated up the aluminum case at boss below stud for 6 - 7 minutes and then unscrewed them slowly with the pipe wrench. A plus was I have experience using pipe wrenches (stud removal tool purchased locally just slipped). The short broken off stud at #3 was tough and naturally the very last one at #6 took the longest. It got a little dicey about 12:15 p.m. (I thought it was gonna snap off) and that one required a reheat. Total time in driveway was 4 hours including installation of all 12 new studs. Clean-up and re-assembly can now begin.

Note magnet in photo as verification of "Steel" replacements should you choose to buy this car next year.

[zippy_gg]

Nice to know!
Where did you get the 4 arm engine mount adapter?

[CMDR Perry]

I bought it from our host as part of the super tool kit, the engine stand came from Northern tool.

[Flat6pac]

The dilivars are so hard they destroy any of the tools I ve used on them over the last 30 years.
I ve bought expensive stud removers and they lasted ..a while.
Bought the inexpensive and they lasted a while
Sears weird stud remover, one or two uses and the jaws are shot.
The pliars with the extra force to grab, the grip teeth become unable to hold
But, the torch is without a doubt the most important tool in the tool box.
and I dont mind buying extra stud removers that grip the stud
Bruce

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by CMDR Perry

Note to present and future 911SC owners; I changed out all 12 lower head studs today, I had 2 broken Dilivar studs, one each on Cylinders #1 and #3. I soaked the base of lower studs 1 day in advance with PB Blaster. Relying on tips in Wayne's engine rebuild book I used a propane torch and 10 inch Sears pipe wrench for Stud removal. Heated up the aluminum case at boss below stud for 6 - 7 minutes and then unscrewed them slowly with the pipe wrench. A plus was I have experience using pipe wrenches (stud removal tool purchased locally just slipped). The short broken off stud at #3 was tough and naturally the very last one at #6 took the longest. It got a little dicey about 12:15 p.m. (I thought it was gonna snap off) and that one required a reheat. Total time in driveway was 4 hours including installation of all 12 new studs. Clean-up and re-assembly can now begin.

Note magnet in photo as verification of "Steel" replacements should you choose to buy this car next year.

CMDR,

You did better than me when I first undertook this project some 12 years ago. It took me almost a whole day to heat and remove the 12 Dilavar head studs. So in my last engine teardown a few weeks ago, I followed the procedure suggested by Tom1394Racing (aka Tom Butler) and was totally amazed with the efficiency and ease of removing this dozen notorious head studs.

I was skeptical at first and really did not fully believe it was that easy until I did it myself. It was done under 35 minutes and I was doing it easy and slow being new to the procedure. Just over 1/2 hour without heat!!!!!

Wayne's book (engine rebuild) shows the tools needed to do this project effectively and efficiently. You need an impack wrench, Snap-On Collet stud remover with 10 mm x 1.5 and you'll be done that quick. I just wanted to share my experience so that you and others could benefit from this experience next time you remove these head studs.

Tony

[gregwils]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

CMDR,

"I followed the procedure suggested by Tom1394Racing (aka Tom Butler) and was totally amazed with the efficiency and ease of removing this dozen notorious head studs."

Tony

I did a search looking for posts by Tom with the word 'stud" in it, but wasn't successful finding Tom's procedure. I bought a set of used steel studs from him, but didn't know to ask him for tips. Do you mind sharing a link to his procedure thread or just sharing what you did? If you can't find the thread, I can always PM him. Thanks.

[chocolatelab]

Perry

I have the same issue and the same broken studs.

Its good to see how smooth it went for you.

Do you have a list of the parts you will need for the reassembly.

Meaning gaskets, studs ect ect?

[CMDR Perry]

Chris I ordered from Pelican a full rebuild gasket set, various nuts and washers, RSR rocker shaft oil seals, engine tin, books and all the specialized tools needed except the Snap-on stud removal items. My bill is close to $2,000.00 just for the parts and extra tools required to do the stud repair and engine reseal. Good luck when you decide to go in, just take your time.

[chocolatelab]

ok

i just went through the " engine wizard " tool on the website and ended up with about the same number.

Just to be clear you are only doing the studs.

Not doing a top end " while you are in there"

Thanks

[CMDR Perry]

Chris I considered a top end until I got it apart. I give credit to those German engineers, they build a very stout flat 6 engine. All pistons, cylinders & heads in great shape. All inside is tight & looks like new. Car has 72,000 miles and 2 years ago had great leak-down. Engine started a combustion fart noise on #1 last year, luckily only #1 head showed traces of leakage.

In April I tried to sell the car, this failed so I decided to fix it. Did not want to split case unless a complete rebuild. I am trying to fix head studs at minimum cost. If money was no object I would invest in HC pistons, new cams and some PMO carbs. Based on published reports I should get at least another 80,000 miles out of this engine with original hard parts. I average ~ 3,400 miles per year so this means another 23+ years of motoring fun should I keep the car.

If anyone disagrees with this re-seal plan please chime in and tell me why I must spend more on the rings and valves. DP Lindman

[Alan L]

I cant find a posting by Tom racing either, on head stud removal. Would be keen to see.
My honed technique involves oxy acetylene torch. Nerve wracking.But it does work.
Alan

[euro911sc]

I think I did all 24 in about 40 minutes... I had a MAP torch and a breaker bar with some FLAPS stud remover that said no thread damage... yeah right all of the studs were useless after that... *shrug*

Remember you need to clean out the stud holes so your new studs seat at the bottom of the hole and are the right height! Take an old stud and use a dremel with a thin cut-off disk and cut 4 grooves longitudinally along the stud's threads and try and keep the leading edge of the groove sharp. Use some brake clean and run that new thread cleaner down each hole a few times then use the straw on the brake clean can with SAFETY goggles and blast the crap out of the hole. There is a thread on this somewhere with pics.

enjoy!

-Michael

[LeakProof]

Thats funny.
I just finished removing 12 lower Delivar head studs with a pipe wrench.
Took about 35 minutes. Also only had to apply heat for 1 stud.
The wrench did create some sparks when placed on the threads. Check out the name on the wrench.

Leakproof.

[CMDR Perry]

Well just 4 months and $4,000.00 later for a Top End rebuild I am ready to put the engine and transmission back into my 911SC this weekend.

I hope it starts and runs Ok. It was a great learning experience for me, my frame of reference is rebuilding small block Chevy's, etc.

[sc_rufctr]

Great job.

Good luck with the first start up!

Did you take any pics while doing the rebuild?

[CMDR Perry]

Hello Peter, I have a few more snaps below. I got deep into the timing chain alignment and cam timing process and forgot about using the camera everyday.

I will press on with just memories of the hours spent with my dial indicator doing clockwise crank rotations.

[CMDR Perry]

Well today was the big test, once I had a fully charged battery and the solenoid leads on correctly it started right up. I had one small gas leak at a loose injector fitting and the distributor index was off 1 cog but it still started and ran. I drove it about 5 miles today. It doesn't idle very well, I need to adjust the mixture / speed but it runs and pretty smooth. The photo is of the engine idling at 600 rpm, I think the flash did a strobe effect on the fan and v belt. A great weekend in the garage. At least I can get it broken in before Turkey day.