Question on Cam Towers.. 3.3 Turbo

x98boardwell · x98boardwell's Garage

I recently rebuilt my motor and had the cam towers "prepped" again to ensure all flat surfaces, tolerances, etc.

I have a minor oil leak behind the cam tower on the passenger side by the on board oil cooler. When the cam tower was prepped my worry was that the end cap (where the scavenge pumps sits on the other side) was somehow sanded, brushed or bead blasted clean and may be leaking.

Does this happen? Was I suppose to JBweld that area to ensure it does not leak?

Just making sure this is not the source of the minor leak.

Thanks,
Bryan

Flat6pac · 07-22-2009, 06:46 PM

The closing disc is usually doped up for reassembly.
The passanger side, there are several problems
Rocker shaft off location to not oil seal
Thermostat O ring is brittle or too small
Idiot light switch could be leaking or on a turbo, the oil line comes off the idiot light sending unit and the line could be cracked or leaking from an aluminum washer not tight enough.

Bruce

x98boardwell · x98boardwell's Garage

Bruce,

Thanks for the help. Here are some clarifying info.

Thermostat o-ring brand new (Checked... dry)
Rocker-arm shafts have rsr seals (checked... dry)
idiot light and turbo oil feed line all brand new washers (checked... dry)

I am more interested in your comment about "gooping" back up during reassemble. I re-assembled this engine since i rebuilt it and never gooped that area at all.

Is it JB Weld and is it a common thing that we have to do? I remember doing on the back of the chain covers for the chain ramp posts... but did not know about the cam tower passenger side that it needs something.

Could you be more specific about that one?

Thanks,
Bryan

Alan L · Alan L's Garage

Breather hose?
How specific are you in terms of identifying the source?
The other possibilty might be the end plug in the spray bar assembly - if you pulled it to flush.
The good news is you can fix it in place.
regards
Alan

x98boardwell · x98boardwell's Garage

Breather hose also brand new... dry.

I am confident it is not coming from the top. The oil return tubes (i have the split ones) do not seem to be leaking so when I get home there is oil on the edge of the cam tower in the back (towards the front of the car) near the on board oil cooler. That is why my thought was about the end of the cam tower where that plug is.

I guess I would have to remove the grey cover over the cooler (do I need to sag the motor), then remove the oil cooler, then JB Weld that area.

Does that sound about right or am I missing something? I would think I could access both the plug and the end cap without doing too much work. The oil cooler if not that hard to remove.

Thanks,
Bryan

Flat6pac · 07-23-2009, 09:22 AM

The cam carrier end plug, from the factory, has a shillac or some sealant that when I replace the plug I will reseal with avation permatex
Bruce

Alan L · Alan L's Garage

With a bit of luck you may be able to remove the rear tin bit without lowering. The cooler can probably come off too - two lower studs and two upper.
The problem with the upper is that there is a plastic shroud over top , feeding fan air into the cooler. This shroud will be near impossible to remove with engine in.
If you cant get the top nuts free without removing shroud, things get tricky.
I would try and verify source first - torch/mirror, wet wipes whatever.
Not running from top inlet cam cover, along tin edge and down front?
Alan

fredmeister · fredmeister's Garage

they sell a kit that uses a fluorescent die that adds to the oil. run the car a little after a thorough cleaning and then under uv light you can trace the leaks source before it spreads all over the engine.
just an idea.

Alan L · Alan L's Garage

The latest post is spam - it has just turned up in another thread also.
Pelican is being spammed.
Alan

x98boardwell · x98boardwell's Garage

When I rebuilt the motor 5 of the 12 rocker arm shafts were out of spec so I purchased 5 new ones. Apparently, I should have purchased 6.

The rocker-arm shaft on the passenger lower side adjacent to the on board oil cooler is leaking and that was where the oil was coming from.

At least I found out what it was. The car is slightly apart now and I will be fixing on Saturday. I will post pics if that helps anyone... otherwise the car runs like a Honda... just a hell of lot faster and better looking.

Thanks for all the help,
Bryan

Flat6pac · 08-06-2009, 08:03 PM

Just a note, the rocker shaft will sit flush to the thinner boss as you look at the rocker. Each rocker has a thin and a thick boss holding the rocker shaft in place. When the shaft is properly located the head of the cross bolt will be flush with the thin boss. this will perfect the oil seal.
Bruce

Flieger · Flieger's Garage

Are you using the RSR rocker shaft seals?

edit: I see that you are.

x98boardwell · x98boardwell's Garage

The rocker shaft was in the proper location with the RSR seals, that is why I think the shaft was out of spec. I'm not willing to adjust and re-tighten everything up just to find out its still leaking.

Especially with the Historics coming up next week and my car is heading there. Also, it cost $40 for everything with a valve cover gasket, well worth the piece of mind.

Thanks,
Bryan

fredmeister · fredmeister's Garage

did you have difficulty installing the rockers with the rsr seals in the grooves. i had alot of trouble sliding them into the cam housing bores, and always wondered if they got pinched along the way compromising the seal.

Flat6pac · 08-07-2009, 09:44 AM

Last engine I did I installed them dry and they slipped right in.
Bruce

x98boardwell · x98boardwell's Garage

It was the lower rocker-arm shaft on the passenger side next to the on board oil cooler.

To be safe, I installed a new rocker-arm shaft, rsr seals, a new nut and bolt and she is dry as a bone.

A helpful hint. On the ends of each shaft i added some gasket sealer to the seam where the shaft meets the cam tower to ensure I will not have any seepage. Seems to work great.

Thanks for all the help,
Bryan