Replacement head stud kit
 

Supertec Performance Cylinder Head Studs Kit

or

Casper Labs Cylinder Head Studs Kit
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I need to replace my head studs and am wondering which of these offerings from P Parts is the right choice.

OEM steel studs will work just fine for a stock rebuild.

PM me if you need a set.

Cheap option...I love it.

I have the studs that came out (think they're steel...I'll check). These'll work right?

LH

Landon

If they are steel, straight and not corroded...They will work fine.

Couple of questions re: the intermediate shaft assembly.

-- Is the oil pump connecting shaft symmetrical? I.e., does it matter which end I attach to the oil pump or intermediate shaft? One end has the grooves extending 18mm and the other has them for 17mm.

-- I can only find one circlip from the disassembly process; its located on the intermediate shaft side right now. Do I need one for the oil pump shaft side too? Where to get one of these little buggers?

-- There's a little damage to the big gear on the intermediate shaft. Pix below. Is this OK to keep?

Thanks all!

Big gear with damage on teeth:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1380474939.jpg

1. circlip -- check
2. new circlip tool that I probably won't use again -- check

Next question: I can't find the dowel pin that holds the #8 bearing. I think I've read somewhere here about using a substitute (like a sawed off drill bit maybe??). Has anyone heard of such a thing?

Back at it tomorrow.

Landon

Unregard previous
 

I found the tech article about how to make a substitute dowel pin (cut off a drill bit).

Thanks to Dana I was back in business today and have the crank and oil pump/intermediate shaft assembly installed.

New question. See the picture below -- is the oil pump (once installed) supposed to sit flush with the it's mating surface? Mine's not and I suspect its the big seal that the oil pump sits on. When I push the pump down, I can feel it pressing against the seal. I installed it twice to make sure the seal wasn't binding or otherwise unseated.

So, once I start tightening the oil pump down, I assume it will move down against the mounting surface and I'm wondering if that seems like how things are supposed to work.

The circles show where the gap is between the oil pump and mounting surface.

Thanks guys.
-Landon

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1381034819.jpg

Case is sealed
 

Victory. A small one at least.

Got a good orange Loctite squeeze line all the way around. Crank rotates freely. Only mistake was using the wrong washers from my hardware kit on the perimeter studs. I noticed my mistake as I was torqueing the final values. Had to go back and R2 them but it worked out.

I didn't foresee the logistical problem with torqueing down the through bolts and my being the only adult performing the operation. Luckily my 10 year old held the opposite side while I cranked them down. Lesson learned for next time I guess.

Oh, here was my pre-mating setup. The most organized I've been in my life and I still pressed the ~45 minute time limit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382071925.jpg

So I'm getting ready to do the oil breather/thermostat/pressure switch accessorizing step.

Do I need to clean the thermostat first? Is there a way to ensure it's still working before I attach it (like a calibration check)?

How about the pressure switch -- same questions.

I also noticed there's temperature switch sticking out of the breather. Does that need any work prior? Should I just spring for any new parts here?

Thanks again guys!

Landon

You can test the thermostat by immersing it in boiling water and making sure it opens.

The thermal switch can also be tested. You can PM me for details on how to test it.

Timing chain ramp hardware
 

Two questions:

1) OK to re-use the bolts that hold the ramps in place?

2) According to the Book of Wayne (page 138, Inboard Chain Ramps) I also need "new aluminum sealing ring(s)". Rings have a part # of 900 123 066 30. Does anyone know where I get these? Would it have been in the hardware or gasket kit I bought? The parts search spits out a 912's "Oil Distribution Block Sealing Ring".

Thanks again for all the great Pelican support.

Landon

I scanned through this entire thread and didn't see a single Big Lebowski crack.

That won't stand. :)

Have fun with the rebuild, and thanks for sharing.

The Dude apologizes and wishes he'd done a better job. Now he's going to enjoy his white Russian.

Pelican's got these, they're $1.50 each, and one of the pics in the catalog shows them being used to seal the chain ramp bolts. That one part serves a multitude of purposes.

I can't imagine why you wouldn't be able to re-use the bolts, they're not under any mechanical stress, just there to hold the ramps up. Unless they are corroded badly, bent or otherwise damaged, I'd re-use them.

Keep'em coming Dude!

GK

Thanks for the help.

Chain ramps installed (the four inner ones). Man -- that was a lot harder than the book makes it sound. I had to wedge the ramp in place while tightening that one bolt through the locking sleeve on each one. They're square to the chain and aligned.

Next up; head studs. Ouch.

Landon

So I decided to put off the head studs some more cause I'm scared.

Instead, we did the breather and oil thermostat. The Book of Wayne carried a warning against installing the breather gasket in backwards. It's easy to tell as there's a pocket on the breather that matches a span in the gasket. The Book didn't warn against installing the thermostat in backwards which would be an easier mistake to make than the breather gasket. Anyway, they're both in.

Big thanks to Tom Butler for the assist on testing the thermostat and temp transmitter.

I still have to install the oil pressure sending unit. I hope that gasket kit came with the sealing ring. I searched for a contents list for the gasket kit but couldn't find one. At least the hardware kit came with one.

Anyone know the torque for the sending unit?? I need to post a picture -- there's an oil tube sticking out the side which isn't shown on the engine diagram.

According to The Book, crankcase assembly should take 8 hours. I'm probably sitting at 16 right now.

Later
Landon

Head Studs complete
 

Yes, they are complete but it wasn't trivial.

Some observations:

-- A grinder with a metal brush wheel would have been awesome to clean the studs. Alas, I used the old fashioned hand powered brush.

-- I used the "two-bolts secured on the stud" method when tightening instead of the Snap-On tool (p137 in book of Wayne). Worked fine.

-- Measuring height was easier than I thought; the Loctite doesn't harden so fast that you can't tweak your height by +/- 0.5mm if needed.

-- I found that my old (steel) studs did not fit like a glove in the new case-savers that Ollie's installed; here's a post I found useful:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/291811-head-studs-bottoming-case-savers-what-do.html

-- I didn't end up using the thread chaser as my studs weren't bottoming out. They were just a real tight fit. I did end up installing them to their proper height and then pulling them to clean the threads once before adding the thread lock. +1 on using lots of q-tips to get the case savers clean.

-- Total time was about 4 hours. I'm really slow.

I'm still looking for an answer to how tight to torque the oil pressure transmitter. Will post a picture of it soon. It doesn't exactly look like the picture in the Katalog.

So what's the oil line sticking out of my oil press transmitter?
 

Two pictures below:
1) the transmitter [part # 901 741 551 01]
2) tear down photo (aka installed photo)

I can't figure out what that oil line is. Not shown in the Katalog or on the host's parts site. Anyone have an idea where that thing is supposed to hook up? The second photo doesn't really help.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384737349.jpg

Here's a shot taken during the tear down. Looks like it attaches to the MFI pump but it's a bad angle in the picture.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384737452.jpg

Thanks all. Landon

Landon

You are correct....MFI injection pump