87 engine removal help

[OldTee]

I am in the process of removing the engine from a 87 Carrera Targa and I need a hint or two. I removed and reinstalled this engine with transmission attached. I am removing it without removing the transmission this time.

I am having trouble trying to reach the two 10mm bolts holding the sensor. Maybe it is me, but I am not double-double jointed and can't quite get a good purchase on the bolt heads.

I haven't removed the clutch cross shaft yet, but I understand that process.

Do I really need to remove the two clutch slave cylinder nuts?

It looks to me that if I lower the engine 6 to 9 inches the process will be simplified. Is that the answer.

This is enough different from a 3.0 with a 915 (my favorite drop task) that it is leaving me scratching my tummy and rubbing my head.

Thanks

[Flat6pac]

T, dont try to split the G50 in the car. The engine/trans has to be on the table to get the TOB fingers and cross shaf in placet. There is an upgrade to the cross shaft.
Remember to clear the shift linkage on the nose of the trans. Remove the slave cylinder when you lower the engine, its a pain to bleed in the car later.
You need to unplug the speed sensor wires on the top of #3 cylinder. The oouter ones are body harness and the inner ones stay with the engine.

ruce

[RichHawk]

+1 on dropping the trans with the engine.
Given the amount of hell the clutch shaft gave me, there would have been absolutely zero chance of me getting that out under the car.

This gives you an Idea of the amount of force needed to pull that sucker:
help removing G50 please

I copied the simpler method 2/3 the way down the page by jwetering using a piece of steel tubing and threaded rod.

Also as flat6pac suggests, ya gotta get things just perfect to get the G50 throwout and release fork back together. No misangle allowed which means even if somehow you manage to get it apart under the car, you will be pulling the tranny down anyway later in order to get things back together.

I unbolted the slave cylinder, but did not disconnect the hydraulics.

Richard
87 3.2L G50

[OldTee]

Thanks, all this grand news and its only 25F here at the moment. Grrr......

Not to put too fine a point on it, yanking the engine and txm adds a level of work. It is not more difficult, exactly, but the logistics around here change as well as my goal of not lifting more than 40lbs and using levers and such to move stuff around. I'm glad I'm not in a hurry.

[RichHawk]

One floor jack to support the tail of the transmission, and one transmission style jack to support the engine (Plus half a dozen 2x4 scraps to ensure a wide support area so the engine does not rotate too far and try to fall off the jack support.

By yourself it's kinda difficult to manage it all (especially in the cold) But I went slow, and think the most I had to lift and tug was once it was down, dragging the engine and transmission out from under the car on the jacks. I separated the tranny from the engine while the engine was still on the transmission jack, and I had repositioned the floor jack under the center of the transmission. Still minimal lifting, just tipping the transmission to where I could slide the jack out from under it.

I'm at 6 months and just half way through getting the engine back together. Maybe by march

[OldTee]

Thanks for the recommendations. You were spot on. Except, getting the information and remembering to follow it are two different things. On my last check to see that everything was disconnected, with the engine and transmission 1/3 lowered there was the brake slave cylinder firmly attached to the bell housing. I tried to loosen the nuts to remove it, but one became very stubborn and decided it wanted to come out with the the stud. I gave up and removed the line which pissed blue brake fluid all over my garage floor. Never the mind. The engine is out, now for some decent temperatures to complete the transmission separation and I can get on with the repair; resealing the cam towers.

[bullethole]

I use a cheap ATV jack for under the motor, with 2 6x6 cross bars and some 2x4 blocks, i create a nice stable platform for the motor. I put a jack stand on a small furniture dolly under the nose of the transmission, and use the atv jack to lower the motor to get angle to put the trans back in. I've only done one motor removal with the trans in the car, and it took at least 3x as long to get the motor back in as pulling it as a complete unit.

To split (and replace) the trans from the motor, I suspend the trans with a motor hoist so I'm not trying to support the weight by myself, and then pull the trans off. It seems to work well for me. When I put the motor back into the car, I use the ATV jack to get things right, then put the motor hoist through the top of the engine compartment and lift on the front motor mount. This gives me enough wiggle room to get the trans mount bolts lined up (though every time I do this, I feel like I'm going to strip the damn threads.

I've gotten it down to about 2 hours to completely pull a motor by myself, and about 1 hour to put it back in (i go in and label everything i disconnect when removing, so that’s what adds to the time difference, I don;'t want to rely on memory since usually i don't do the whole in and out in the same day, so labeling just makes the memory perfect).

[OldTee]

like this?

[Flat6pac]

The throttle rod looks like its upside down. When you install the throttle rod take the nut off the top side by the ball cock. Its all adjustment to get full throttle, with the nut off you can open the bottom and turn it shorter for better throttle opening. If the nut is locked you cant get to the rod in the car.
Bruce

[OldTee]

Very observant. Actually the jam nut was loose causing it to move around. I did that so I could keep it from getting hung up on the CV when the engine came down. Amen to trying to install it later!!!!