Thanks. They really look good!

I've been gone a lot lately, but put some new "bling" on tonight:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271816370.jpg

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Well I painted my "new" motor mount console, got the clutch in, cleaned a bunch of parts, wired up the alternator, got the shroud and throttle linkage on, installed the headers and bolted on the motor mount assy. Tomorrow is intake and sheetmetal-then the engine is pretty much done. I'm going to re-belt my dizzy and install one of the two (!!!) vent kits I've bought in the last two months. I'll also probably pull the injectors and send them off to Witchunter this week. Steve Wong finished the recipe on my new chip, and it shipped yesterday. Getting close!

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A very pro looking finish there Ed, nicely executed

Thanks Shirish. You've set the bar, you know. I'm pretty close to the apprehension of the first start-up!

I disagree entirely fella, i got a shop to do mine and your engine still looks better!

Enjoy that start-up - closing one eye and grimacing helps, apparently :)

Engine build....check!

Next, wiring for the twin ignition:

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Looking good ED!! Don't pussy it when you get it running, get some accel/deccel load on it pronto!

Cheers

You bet Jeff. No cam's rockers to break-in this time. I'll fire her and check for leaks, then she's headed out on the road.

Well between last night and today, I really finished the engine. I dealt with the dizzy interference by removing the one stud and replacing with a hex bolt. It cleared by maybe 3mm. I also had to heat up and pound out the resin on my air outlet to clear the main dizzy cap. I got it down to the glass mat, and then slapped on some resin. I also made a fiberglas piece to cover up the old penetration for the heat duct. It isn't pretty, but it is a perfect fit, and will keep crud from coming up thru the hole. I also cut a new 3" hole for the heat duct, as I'm determined to at least get some defroster out of this.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272753074.jpg
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Then, today I mounted the u-tube to the header heat boxes using Porsche OEM silicone sockets which really are better than SCAT ducting:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272753272.jpg


Then, I wrestled with the wires for a couple of hours using Supertec's guides, which add a nice touch. The wires I got with the dizzy for not much more, which seemed better than a new set for $500. But, fishing fully assembled wires through little holes got old after a while. Also, the bottom wires had long sparkplug boots which won't let me use wire retainers. I'll safety wire them on for now.

The main problem with the wires was length. I had to run the 4-5-6 top wires on the main dizzy cap, and the 1-2-3 on the slave cap. The bottoms are split also. This bugs me, but since they fire simultaneously, I can't see a problem with this. The proper solution is custom wires which will happen in a few months. Tomorrow, I'll wire up the splitter and fab a bracket to mount the coils. This baby may go in next weekend! Not as pretty as one of Henry's gems, but she looks sweet to me...

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Today I welded up some brackets and mounted the Jacobs supercoils. Got'em in the stock coil location, but it was tight. I also took the plunge and tapped into the stock DME and wiring harness to get the signal to the splitter. Not for the meek, but my voltmeter gave me confirmation that I snipped the proper wires. I need to run the new leads back for the 2nd coil, and this part is done!

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Ed, What splitter is that? Did you build it?

I'm not that talented, it's the Andial unit.

That's what I was thinking, they must have changed the style a bit. Did they have the switch on it so you can check the upper and lower plugs separate? If not what I do is just unplug one of the Modules. I made the mistake years ago and just pulled one coil wire and it blew out my splitter.

Yep, they don't do the knobs any more-they say they're so dependable, that they stopped this. I think I'd read about someone doing the coil wire and frying the splitter. I appreciate the reinforcement that this is not something to do!

I'm going to unplug each module to test when I get her fired up, it seems prudent to make sure all of the wiring is proper and functioning.

Finally got back at it a bit today. I finished wiring the splitter and mounting it. I ran the two new coil wires back along the engine wiring harness, and put new connectors on-it is wired for twin-plug now. ;)

I also took it down off the stand....injectors should be back from WitchHunter Tues or Weds (he is amazingly fast!), and it may go in next weekend.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273438579.jpg
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Ed,

Is your next bottle neck the Motronic injection system? At what upgrade point (i.e. cams & pistons) would you consider moving to PMO injection or the like?

Congrats on a great project...Ruby's gonna have one helluva thumper!!

Ha Ha, the bottle neck was the factory engine....I have pretty much the same engine and am saving up for PMO's and ignition system. So my bottle neck is money right now..

Yep, my bottleneck is money and the fact I don't want to spend anymore right now and I want to drive it. This little episode was almost what I paid for the car. There are plenty of cars making pretty good power with the stock injection system.

Someday, maybe, but I'm not in a hurry to do more right now.

Hi, I just wanted to say that you did an outstanding job on the engine modifications, I am pretty new to Porsche so take my props as you like but your organization and cleanliness are thumbs up.

Ed, that's a beautiful build, I put a lot of hours into mine and looking at yours makes me think I could have done a lot more. I read back though but can't find this, where did you get those plug wire keepers?

Thanks guys.

The wire keepers came from Henry @ Supertec.

Well, the motor is back in. I got a few things hooked back up, but I probably won't finish until later this week. Target date for blast-off is Saturday 5/22. I also got the appropriate badging on today.

I wasn't sure if the 3.4L would fit without any mods, as it went in place of a 3.2, but it did. ;)http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273961777.jpg
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One other quick note....I went to an Autozone the other day to get some "cheap" 20-50 oil for the break-in changes. I've been running BP. Valvoline VR1 racing 20-50 is half price thru 5/31, so I've accumulated a couple of cases at $27.99 out the door.

Looks like a screamer to me!

Congratulations, Ed.

Ed,

Looking good!! Do you need to use two jacks to get the motor and trany in? I see one of your jacks is a common shop hydraulic jack, is the other a motorcycle jack? Just wondering what I would need should I choose to do the drop myself.

I was using the jack to raise the trans up to mate to the engine. From there, it is the ATV lift doing the work.

Thanks. Must get an ATV jack and a lift.

The lift does come in handy!

Well, I got the rear ARB, muffler, clutch mechanism, throttle, CV's, shift linkage, etc all hooked up last night. Today, she lives again:

YouTube - Ruby's new 3.4L motor

She runs pretty well, except I've got a leak at the RH cam oil line. I put on new ferrules, but one of the old ones was kinda tough to get off, maybe the line was deformed a bit....at any rate, I've tried to cinch it down a bit, but can't stop the leak. So, a new line and seals being ordered from our host in about 5 minutes. The test run will have to wait until next week-bummer! But, after about 5 minutes of running, I see no other issues, so that is good.

Lift ramps?
 

Hi Ed,

What did you use to make the ramps on either side of your lift? And, how heavy are they? I have the same lift and have been using a couple of 8x2 planks to get my SC on-and-off the lift, but want something a little 'better'. Thanks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274566486.jpg


Andrew

7 each 2x4's thru-bolted on each side, angle cut on the approach side, some stops at the other end and a couple of handles bolted to each to help with moving them.

Buzzzzzzzzzzz! Hey, that must be the timer, Ruby is done!

Got the new oil line on and tested each circuit of the ignition system to make sure I was firing all plugs, slapped the seat in, and burned it up for about 20 minutes. She truly seems to have a more linear tq curve with good pull down low. Ran up to 5K about 15 times or so, with the decel on the back of each, and 5.5K on one. Seems pretty strong to me. I'm draining the oil as I type-it looked pretty good-no big chunks of metal, which I take as a good omen. ;)

So, I'll get about 100 miles on the next batch of oil, here locally-maybe to Carlsbad Cars and Coffee on Saturday, and just keep an eye on her. It's good to have her back!

Some pics, and two more You Tube vids:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274923332.jpg
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I know you don't have a lot of time on the engine yet but I noticed you also have the O2 sensor on just one side, using only 3 cylinders to get a sample. Mine ran great that way but when I disconnected it and tuned it without "open" it even ran better. Just something to watch for.

Thanks Craig. I'm going to consult with Steve W, when I'm ready to dial it in. I'll ask him about that.

Great Ed!!

Your engine has to me the perfect sound...sounds like a lumpy cam on a hot rod ~ muscle car...
MY FAVORITE SOUND IN THE WORLD...........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please post a u-tube vid, if you can, with that engine ramping up to full song...it must be intoxicating to say the least......

Bob

I will do that Bob. She does have a great tone, and constantly gets comments. I'm trying to decide if she sounds just a wee bit deeper in tone with the extra 200cc displacement. :D

Here's a fun video from last year getting on a freeway, same exhaust as I have now, stay with it until about the 47 second mark...

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Nice Ed...they don't get much closer than that encounter...good thing you must of spotted the CHP on your left side just as you crested the on ramp...could of easily been in your blind spot there...

Bob

Yes, I saw him as I looked back getting on. It was one of those days- fresh oil change, filled up with fuel, clean 911, nice road.......:eek: