902 tranny and a 2.7

[pemz0r]

Can a 1966 902 tranny work with a 2.7 engine from a 74?

I heard the throw out bearings and the clutch plate might be different.

I have the clutch that the 2.7 comes with, is there anything special that I have to mate the 902 to the 2.7?

Thanks.

[Mark Henry]

I think you need a 69 or 914/6 Pressure plate and clutch assemby.
I have a used set in good shape if you're looking.

[Grady Clay]

I’m assuming you are anticipating installing a 2.7 in your ’66 912 with a 902 transmission.
I’m assuming your 912 has Lobro (not Nadella) axles.
I recommend you partially disassemble your transmission for inspection. It is easy and only requires a gasket set. This way you don’t go to all the work installing the engine only to find something amiss in the transmission (If you have been driving it and it works OK, ignore this).
Is that correct?


If so, it will work nicely.
You will need any clutch and flywheel assembly from ’65-’69 911 or 914-6.
This is a 215 mm push-type clutch and is commonly inexpensive and available from our host.

You will need:
Flywheel (If you buy a used part here, make sure it is well within specification. The ring gear should be undamaged.)
Six flywheel bolts (different length from 2.7),
Flywheel washer (different thickness from 2.7),
Pilot bearing,
Pressure plate,
Pressure plate bolts and lock washers (6),
Disc,

You should replace your clutch release (TO) bearing.
Replace the two plastic support pieces for the TO bearing.
Replace the plastic cup in the TO bearing fork.
Replace the plastic piece at the fork and cable with a steel 914 part (make sure it clears the slot in the fork during its travel).
A new clutch cable may be appropriate.

Inspect where the clutch cable Bowden tube seats against the chassis. The chassis can be cracked there and only show under load.

If you are intending to use carburetors (Weber, Zenith, PMO) on the 2.7, that will be easy. You will need an electric fuel pump. It is best installed on the front suspension cross member. Search Pelican “circulating fuel system”.
Be sure to add insulators between the heads and intake manifolds.

CIS install will be more complicated.
MFI is another story (you should be so lucky)

If you can install the 2.7 electrical panel in your car, that will simplify future work. The panel will have the CDI box, voltage regulator and (most important) the 14-pin connector. This will allow continued use of the 2.7 engine wiring harness. Some clever wiring will make it a simple install and appear original.


Most important is your choice of 2.7 engines.
Some are so abused (from heat, age and incompetence) that they are not economically rebuildable. Stay away from these.

A good 2.7 should have been properly rebuilt with case inserts and new cylinder head studs. It should have known-good P&Cs and a recent cylinder head refresh. Make sure you know the history and current condition of any engine. Anything less is buying a problem.

The engine must have the 11-blade, 245 mm fan turning 1.82:1. This should be suitable in all but the hottest conditions. Any hot weather use probably will require a front oil cooler system.

The best exhaust is from the ’74 2.7 and all earlier 911s. The 49-state 2.7 system and 911SC system are suitable. Absolutely do not use the ’75-’77 California 2.7 exhaust or the 50-state ’77 with thermo reactors.

You will need an oil tank in the RR fender. Easiest is the tank from ’73-’89. You will need the correct oil-out pipe from the engine to the tank. This will depend on the exhaust you use. Be careful that the end of the clutch cable can not touch the oil pipe.

You will need a 6-cylinder tach or have yours recalibrated. The oil tank will have an oil level sender. You can install a 911 fuel/oil level instrument. You can install a 911 ‘combination’ instrument with oil pressure and temperature gauges. You will need to pay attention that your oil temperature and pressure gauges and senders are compatible. It is desirable to have both an oil pressure gauge and a ‘low oil pressure’ warning light. I’ll encourage you to continuing using the green/white instruments.

Everything considered, this is a simple conversion and VERY satisfactory.

You will find the weight of the engine will make the rear of the car sit lower. I’ll encourage you to install larger rear torsion bars as your small 912 bars will not be ideal. Used 911 bars are commonly available.

You might consider a brake upgrade to ventilated discs. A 2.7 in a nice lightweight ’66 is a FAST car. Make sure all of your systems (suspension, steering, tires, brakes, no rust chassis, etc.) are up to the task.

Enjoy.

Best,
Grady

PS: You can have the Moderator move this thread to the 911 Technical Forum. You will get more responses there.
G.

[pemz0r]

wow.

Thanks GRADY!!!!!!!!!!

Happy Holidays