Cylinder Head, Exhaust Stud Install?

[LeakProof]

Guy's,

I have to install twelve new cylinder head exhaust studs.

My question is, do these get installed dry, or with red or blue Loctite.

Also, I need to install two new, cam housing/valve cover studs. (they bent, when I dropped engine on tear down)

How would these get installed?

I cannot find this info anywhere.

Thanks,

Leakproof.

[snbush67]

Use the red lock-tight. You should use the longer (later) exhaust studs just in case you decide to put on thick flange exhaust.

In order to uninstall/install them you use two nuts tightened against each other on the stud, unscrew the old ones and screw in the new ones.

You will need to soak the exhaust studs with penetrating oil and use heat to free them, if they don't turn at all you need more heat, if you break them off life gets hard and you have to drill them out with a jig.

The valve cover studs should just come out with a double nut.

When you install your exhaust make sure you put anti-sieze compound on the threads.

Shane

[4sd911]

I've used blue (medium) loctite in the past with no problems, red can be hard to remove in the future.

[LeakProof]

Sounds good guy's,

I'll definitely loctite them, maybe a drop of red or a bead of blue. (that sounds cool)

Yes Shane, my head's were completely re-done, so there for, luckily, I will not have to deal with the stud removal process.

Thanks for the head's up, on the later,stud length upgrade. This is definitely something to consider.

Oh, and anti-seize, will be applied liberally. I Remember, the stud removal process all to well. So does my wallet.

Thanks,

Leakproof.

[efhughes3]

How much good does Loctite really do on exhaust studs? Seems like the heat and many heat cycles would negate it over time?

[snbush67]

Originally Posted by efhughes3

How much good does Loctite really do on exhaust studs? Seems like the heat and many heat cycles would negate it over time?

Exactly, it probably doesnt matter.

[turbo nut]

If you can get on them (don't know what exhaust your have) possibly use copper plated nuts.

[E Sully]

Make sure to match the exhaust stud length to the exhaust you will be using. A thin flange on a long stud would not allow the allen nuts to be tightened up.

[LeakProof]

Yea Ed, good point.

I thought about that last night, I would definitely have issues with the barrel nut's, if the stud's were to long.

Red loctite, sure held those head studs in for 30 years.

Maybe using blue, or nothing at all, is a better option.

I guess this is another personal preference type decision.

I would prefer to use nothing at all to make future removal, a little easier. Maybe I should anti-seize the whole stud?

Just don't want them loosening up, maybe I could just periodically check them to make sure they stay torqued.

Thanks,

Leakproof.

[88-diamondblue]

I used copper hi-temp anti-seize on all the exhaust studs and a couple of studs that came out during dis-assembly. Lock-tite will not survive that much heat. Remember we use heat to get the cylinder studs (which are locktite'd in place) out during a rebuild.

[Walt Fricke]

Leaky

Retorquing the head stud nuts after some amount of engine use post-rebuild is good practice no matter what. !00 miles? 1,000 miles? A weekend at the track? Somewhere in there. Just in case.

Easy to do at your first oil change (unless you do one of those VW deals, where you do a bunch of oil changes before deciding to go the full interval) when you are also rechecking valve lash and have the covers off.

[snbush67]

You can use spacers on the long studs if you want to use barrel nuts. Or you can just use a regular copper lock nut on all the studs.

[TimT]

Maybe I should anti-seize the whole stud?

Ya think!!

I can't think of any reason to try and hold exhaust studs in the head with any extra chemical persuasion..

Haven't heard of any propensity of exhaust studs backing out of there own free will...

People usually curse when removing exhaust studs... why tend to prolong the expletive stream...

Anti seize...anti seize

[LeakProof]

Tim,

are you saying, that you would apply anti-seize, to the part of the stud that threads in to the cylinder head, as opposed to just applying on the nutted end.

This is what I meant by whole stud.

Leakproof.

[4sd911]

I would not use anti-seize on the stud into the head, only on nut side of stud.

[LeakProof]

Thats what I thought, just checking.

Not only, will I anti-seize the bottom half of the stud, I'll also coat the inside and outside of the nuts.
Plus, re-coating and removing the nut's every couple years.
That should keep those S.O.B. from seizing up.

Hey Walt,

just for the record, I did end up, checking the sprocket alignment, and everything looked real good, with the four shims on both sides.

Left was within .03
Right was within .008, Closer then I imagined it would be.

Finding a true straight edge, was not an easy task.
Either was all the conversions thrown in to the mix.

But, I'm glad I checked it.

Leakproof.