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Cam timed, new idler arms,and buttoned up
Took a while, but I finally timed my cams (s/c grind from "camgrinder") on my 3.0 930 over the weekend and installed a set of Supertec wide bushing idler arms. These arms are of exceptional quality and fit. I'd recommend them to anyone who's still using a spacer and narrow arms.
Here's a few pictures Setting up: ![]() ![]() Wide bushing arms...very nice ![]() ![]() Double checking over and over ![]() Buttoned up. ![]()
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1983 911SC 1977 930 Turbo (again) 2018 GTS 2023 Audi A4 '74 914 '76 911S '72 911T '73 1/2 911T '77 930 Turbo (all gone) Last edited by stevie 77 930; 07-21-2010 at 01:15 PM.. |
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,249
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When using mechanical tensioners to put tension on the chain while timing cams when you're going to be running oil fed spring tension chain tensioners in the motor, how do you know how much to tighten them so the tension will be the same as the oil fed tensioners that will be in the running motor? and how do you get both sides tightened and tensioned equally?
Even worse if you use big C Clamps or the big double C welder/fabricators vice grips on the tensioners like the pelican engine book suggests. I just don't understand it. I know several professional engine builders around here and when the motors are going to be run with spring tension oil fed chain tensioners thats what they have in there while timing the cams, and that makes total sense to me. The oil feed pressure does not increase tension on the chains. The spring inside makes all the tension on the idler sprocket and chains and the oil only dampens them. |
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I think the idea is to just take the slack out of the chain, anything more than that is starting to bend things. So the amount of tension is just enough to take out the slack and not much more.
Lindy |
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