rebuild over time

[kwc98]

I have a 3.0 engine that I would like to rebuild, but I am thinking about doing it over time, like get the heads re-done, check out the P&C's, etc. If I get various items rebuilt, cleaned, etc but have them sit around for 1 year, am I wasting my time? Basically I want to build the engine on the installment plan. Any advice appreciated.

-Ken

[SchnellSchweitz]

I'm basically just finishing-up on my 3.0L rebuild and I did it on the two-year installment plan.

Just keep your parts in a dry environment and there shouldn't be an issue. Steve W. told me not to bag them in plastic if you live in a moist climate. I believe he's right. Moisture seems to find a way in. Coat the case bolts, flywheel and pressure plate with a light spray of WD-40 and you should be OK. Protect the Ps and Cs in a cardboard box with each separated by a wall of cardboard. Steve W. actually told me, in many cases, its best to replace the Ps and Cs with new Mahles when rebuilding. I was dealing with a damaged crank and rod in my case, so your situation may be different.

Check on your parts every so often to see if rust is infecting anything. Kill it with WD-40. Its kind of like gardening. Ha!

Note: I have read where some re-builders will coat their case bolts with a wax. I may try this next time, but I haven't read how they are getting the wax off when it's ready for rebuilding. Must be using a torch???


Eric J.

[304065]

WD-40 is not an appropriate corrosion preventive coating. I know this because I had WD on my crank and it rusted, ruining the crank.

For the engine itself I recommend an anticorrosion oil, I use Aeroshell Fluid 2F which is intended for airplanes, but most oils will do a decent job IF you keep things coated.

For other assemblies you can use LPS-IV spray-on corrosion preventive coating. It has to be removed before you start the engine with mineral spirits, this is not a difficult job. I have it on the cam chains and sprockets and on the flywheel friction surface. Inside the engine I use Fluid 2F and turn the engine over once in a while to keep it circulated.

Hope this helps

[Flieger]

Now is your chance to use up all that Castrol GTX or re-formulated Mobil 1. Get a big drum and immerse the parts in the oil. That ought to keep 'em clean.

[kwc98]

I am thinking that I might also want to find a source for those little bags a desiccant. Thanks for the advice. I am thinking that a few parts now and again and I can have the engine on the payment plan. Depends on some of the parts that I already have I know, but I am going to give it a twirl. Any other advice appreciated.

thanks,
Ken

[304065]

Ken, the dessicant is fine, I use it in the bags with my rebuilt carburetors, but it's a lot cheaper to get some big freezer bags, insert the parts, liberally pour in some cheapo motor oil and seal the bag.

What you should really, really be worried about is remembering how everything goes together once you take it apart. Wayne's book is outstanding in this regard, but there is no substitute for a couple hundred digital camera photos that will serve as your guide to how things were. If I had it to do over again I would have taken more teardown photos. The good news is that digital cameras are cheap, and if you have the time, it will pay dividends in the future, as well as help out your fellow Pelicans who will occasionally ask "what is this engine part?"

[SchnellSchweitz]

Here is the wax stuff I may try next time: Sonax 592 (Page 6)
Requires Acrobat Reader

It's German too... so it must be good. Ha.

PS: WD-40 worked for me for two years, but it would dry out occasionally and did require reapplication. I trust what the moderator says. I'm sure his recommendation is good. He knows more than I do.

[merbesfield]

WD40 is bad stuff. Go to an aircraft supply store and ask them for a good penetrating oil. LPS is the brand I use.