Hey Brad,

Looking good! Make certain that you run the dizzy impulse wire SEPARATE from the other wiring to the MSD box. It will interfere with the timing. Been there, done that!

Lindy

Yes. Barry made me a purple/green that plugs into the MSD on one end and into the Dizzy on the other end. It is run seperate from the other wires. Thanks!

Wiring about 98% complete.. Here is a pic. The plastic cover has been cut to cover for water protection. here is a pic without the plastic cover..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299682481.jpg

Engine is in...

Just a few things to do...

Install ITB's and Fuel lines.
connect linkage/clutch cable
Adjust clutch
Do the "5 min and a beer" repair on one of my oil lines
Connect a few wires under the car.
install the new wideband O2
Add oil.

Hope to have her started this weekend. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299683771.jpg

Update
 

She is running.

Ran into a few hickups but nothing major (clutch cable was not adjusted right, didnt have the oil hose at cooler tight enough)...

Oddly, I was off one tooth on my distributor and it still ran. Ran well enough to break it in like this. I learned this because i was not able to get close to TDC with the timing light with it at idle after the 20 minute break-in. Thats was the biggest error that I have found so far...

Have some tuning to do with the MS EFI (thats another post). no oil leaks. pulls strong. drove 50 miles or so after breakin. Changed oil twice (Break-in, first 50 miles).

Thank you all for your help and advice.

Brad

Last Pic
 

Here is one last pic...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300072072.jpg

Looks great! Hope it continues to go well.

Thanks!

Great job Brad,

btw, the switch to E10 fuels in TX in 2010 has caused me to retune my engine to compensate for fuel quality. send me an email and we can go over the new targets for your MS system.

You will also want to retune based on the cam change.

Thanks Jaime. Sent you a PM.

May I ask is the block painted or is there some kind of coating on ? Why ? If the answer is the look, it certainly looks good. Very nice.

After cleaning with glass beed, the case and the aluminum parts of the engine were sent to thin anodize process. Normal anodize could built up to 0.001"-.002" which obviously you don't want on an engine case. Anodize requires to have metal free. Studs are to be removed. Cleaning cases with sand blast or similar process will show a nice finish but will not last because of corrosion. Here's a picture of the complete engine once assembled. All metal pieces of the entire car went to yellow or black zinc process.

Transmission is my next step. It will use the similar process. Note, the custom made 12 points rotor and throttle bodies with integral swirling geometries...using Microsquirt engine control for this engine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414705995.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414706006.jpg

Wow, that's a super clean engine compartment! Great post!

Beautiful!

Very nice Alain!

Although I am curious as to what processes were used after media blasting, and anodizing to ensure that all media was removed from the case internally, and that the anodizing process left no coating within the internals?

Were the case halves mated, openings taped and then blasted? etc..

Thx